Write- Up Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles
#101
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
It's not the old man emu springs.
If you're running more than about 30 psi in your tires, that could give a harsh on road ride.
An up-and-down clunking just when you hit imperfections in the road, needs to be diagnosed like you would death wobble.
It could be the ball joints. It could be the suspension bolts were torqued improperly--with the jeep on the lift, or that the bolts weren't loosened when the new suspension was installed, etc.
Loose shock bolts would result in clunks.
Watch the 2 diagnosis videos. Then read the beginning of this thread.
If you're running more than about 30 psi in your tires, that could give a harsh on road ride.
An up-and-down clunking just when you hit imperfections in the road, needs to be diagnosed like you would death wobble.
It could be the ball joints. It could be the suspension bolts were torqued improperly--with the jeep on the lift, or that the bolts weren't loosened when the new suspension was installed, etc.
Loose shock bolts would result in clunks.
Watch the 2 diagnosis videos. Then read the beginning of this thread.
#102
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Germany Moenchengladbach
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not the old man emu springs.
If you're running more than about 30 psi in your tires, that could give a harsh on road ride.
An up-and-down clunking just when you hit imperfections in the road, needs to be diagnosed like you would death wobble.
It could be the ball joints. It could be the suspension bolts were torqued improperly--with the jeep on the lift, or that the bolts weren't loosened when the new suspension was installed, etc.
Loose shock bolts would result in clunks.
Watch the 2 diagnosis videos. Then read the beginning of this thread.
If you're running more than about 30 psi in your tires, that could give a harsh on road ride.
An up-and-down clunking just when you hit imperfections in the road, needs to be diagnosed like you would death wobble.
It could be the ball joints. It could be the suspension bolts were torqued improperly--with the jeep on the lift, or that the bolts weren't loosened when the new suspension was installed, etc.
Loose shock bolts would result in clunks.
Watch the 2 diagnosis videos. Then read the beginning of this thread.
Like i said like not enough rebound on the shocks and the suspension is wobbling. You also can feel/see this on mountain bikes when you don´t ü have enough rebound.
Trackbar bolts are tightened correctly I checked this.
Control arm bolts should be also ok. As it was in the garage for the OME lift I asked when it was back on teh ground if they were ready and they said "no we have to tighten the bolts now".
So with this statement and as it is a special garage for Jeeps they should have done this correctly.
Ball joints........ is always an issue. But with 10kmls and no clunking ???
Tires have good pressure because of daily use. I should check what happens if I go with less pressure.
Altough I think it´s just if tires transfer more bumps into the suspension and it also be perfect with 50psi.....
And in a short time I´ll change my lower front control arms, so the bolt issue would be checked or how should I say.... solved if there is an issue
So I´m still convinced it´s something else.
Like I said very hard springs with real soft shocks...... But it seems no one ever made such a expirience....
I had an similar "issue" with my race car. There you always try to get a better (harder) suspension. Ok, so we bought race coilover shocks. Not hard enough, so we bought coil springs with higher rate.
Still you felt that there was something soft...
So we changed the bushing into hard PU bushing......
And still you felt that there was something to soft. Like some parts weren´t up to the stress and to soft for the task and the rest of the suspension.
Last edited by MitchMG; 04-24-2013 at 02:29 AM.
#104
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Germany Moenchengladbach
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
50psi was just kiddin.....
Actually I drive around with 35psi. Right now it is 32-33psi.
But in the parks I go down to 23-22psi.
Maybe I should check the what happens with 28-30psi onroad.
I or a lot of people went up with pressure after lifting and going fot bigger wheels because of the fuel consumption wich drastically went up.
But I think there is not such a great influence with +-5 psi Personnaly think there is a larger influence with +-5°C
Actually I drive around with 35psi. Right now it is 32-33psi.
But in the parks I go down to 23-22psi.
Maybe I should check the what happens with 28-30psi onroad.
I or a lot of people went up with pressure after lifting and going fot bigger wheels because of the fuel consumption wich drastically went up.
But I think there is not such a great influence with +-5 psi Personnaly think there is a larger influence with +-5°C
#106
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Germany Moenchengladbach
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ball joints.........I´m not keen on them. Is not a nice work and I don´t like to dissasemble half front axle for the change. specially on a one year old car.
Garage wants a fortune for this and I probably won´t get warranty because of the lift and tires.
It might be an issue anyway when welding on the C gussets.
So I´ll probably start checking and changing from easy to difficult. See when it stops.
Task 1 check different tire pressures......
Task 2 change bolts
Task 3 change lower front control arms
Task 4 reallign everything after adding additional trimpackers/spacers
In between the shocks will be changed anyway. Looking for Fox 2.0 factory ones or even 2.0 bypass
And then........ the difficult stuff comes, but I hope it´s fixed till then
#107
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
The Moog ball joints have a warranty (on the parts, not labor), but they don't have a track record of lasting much longer than stock.
Synergy/Poly Performance or Dynatrac are the way to go. The Synergy ball joints are only $200 for the set of 4.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Synergy/Poly Performance or Dynatrac are the way to go. The Synergy ball joints are only $200 for the set of 4.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
#108
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Tooele (two-willa), Utah
Posts: 2,088
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
He would only warranty his work on Moog, I wanted to buy the Poly ones but I had to go with his rules. If there's a problem with Moog in another five years I'll take it to another place and get the Poly.
#109
OK planman I have done what you said and still I have a DW. I have replaced my bolts as you stated. I did have a bad OEM stabilizer which has been replaced with a teraflex Stab. I have also replaced my trackbar with the taraflex. Tires are properly inflated, I have rotated them and have re balanced them. I have also re checke the torque on the bolts. I have also had the wheels re-aligned.
I have 74K miles on the JK and and it only happens when I am turn LEFT at around 55 mph+ and hit a bump on the RIGHT tire.
What now?
I have 74K miles on the JK and and it only happens when I am turn LEFT at around 55 mph+ and hit a bump on the RIGHT tire.
What now?
Last edited by PatrickESJK; 05-28-2013 at 05:37 AM.
#110
JK Junkie
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 2,197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK planman I have done what you said and still I have a DW. I have replaced my bolts as you stated. I did have a bad OEM stabilizer which has been replaced with a teraflex Stab. I have also replaced my trackbar with the taraflex. Tires are properly inflated, I have rotated them and have re balanced them. I have also re checke the torque on the bolts. I have also had the wheels re-aligned.
I have 74K miles on the JK and and it only happens when I am turn LEFT at around 55 mph+ and hit a bump on the RIGHT tire.
What now?
I have 74K miles on the JK and and it only happens when I am turn LEFT at around 55 mph+ and hit a bump on the RIGHT tire.
What now?