ade

Today as thread was started at the end of June. ;-/)

planman

People just need to read beyond the lies of the precious metal sellers, scams like Stansberry Research, Ron Paul's economic quackery, etc. and use common sense.

You don't have to believe me. Just be skeptical of the agenda of the fear-mongers.

It doesn't take much to discover that they lying about other governments selling US Treasuries. It doesn't take much to discover that he is lying about the Fed being the only buyer of US Treasuries. It doesn't take much to discover that banks are significantly better capitalized than they were in 2008, and things are not worse than they were in 2008.

It is true that there is significantly more US Dollars in the system, but the velocity of money has dropped because individuals and businesses have focused on debt reduction and building cash reserves. Extra Dollars are not inflationary until they gain velocity in the economy.

Clients ask me when all the extra US Dollars will cause high inflation. My answer is that it will happen when people with good credit decide to increase their leverage rather than paying of debt early and building cash reserves. I ask them when they are going to do a cash out refinance of their home equity and go to a 30 year loan from their current 15 year or 10 year loan so that they can go spend it. They tell me that they never will. I ask my business owner clients when they will max borrow to build plant, property and equipment and hire more employees that are not currently at capacity so that they can focus more on growth with leverage. They tell me that they never will.

Just as the Great Depression caused a psychological shift about money, so did the Great Recession. Most all of the excess liquidity created by the Fed since 2008 is sitting in bank reserves with the Fed. Banks try to loan it out, but people and businesses with good credit are accelerating their debt payments, not borrowing more. People and businesses now understand the need to hold larger cash reserves instead of just relying on lines of credit or credit card advances for emergencies.

Japan has had low interest rates for 20+ years. Globally, we will have low interest rates for even longer. The bond bubble will continue for a long time.

Global growth will be minimal due to declining global birth rates and increasing life expectancies. Income and wealth disparity will continue to get worse.

The US Dollar will be the primary world reserve currency until there is a viable alternative. There will not be a viable alternative for several decades.

planman

And, if you read the thread, I gave the OP my suggestions about the $8k budget. Instead, he bought a new Rubi.

And, if the conspiracy theorists truly believe what they are preaching, they would max loan cash out refinance everything they had, stopped making payments on everything, and buy as much silver and gold as they can.

Trevo

This went way off topic lol.

Anyway, I only had to finance a small portion of it because the other Jeep was paid off. Not too bad. Almost 20k as a down payment.


I think I'm going to go with Metalcloak fenders and a 2.5-3inch lift with Toyo 37s....maybe some lightbars as I do security details pretty regularly in desolate open fields guarding marijuana at night.

Anyway, already broke her in right...went and ran some trails. Less than 1k and all the rims are scuffed and rocker panels lol.

Planman, does this sound good?

planman

Nice.

First, running 37s works best with wheels that have 3.5" to 4" backspacing so that you can still turn sharp without the tires rubbing on the frame and swaybar too much.

Next, 37x13.50R17 Toyo MTs are extremely stiff and designed for lifted 1 ton diesel trucks that weigh substantially more than your JK. Consider a 37" tire with a load range D rating, like Cooper STTs, Nitto Trail Grapplers, etc.

Next, if you do a 2.5" lift, you can get by with stock control arms, a stock front trackbar, and stock driveshafts. At 3", you will end up needing an adjustable front trackbar and adjustable front lower control arms. You may also need an aftermarket front driveshaft at some point if your shocks are fairly long.

You'll want at least C gussets welded to your front axle and maybe an Artec front truss.

Metal cloak fenders are really nice, but for about the same cost or less you could afford to regear to 4.88s and just trim your stock flares flat. Maybe you'd even have enough for a rear tire carrier capable of a 37" tire as well.

Light bars have become much more affordable and are a good idea for your work situation.

Mcgee149

you do not need fenders! it is a huge chunk of change. you can do so much more for your rig with that 1200 or so doll hairs.

Invest2m4

You can make fenders and custom corner armor for under $300 all in. You can measure your buddies expensive control arms and make your own with the same joints for half the price, and twice the strength.

Over-paying for stuff off-the-shelf is a "huge chunk of change."

"You can do so much more for your rig" if you turn the tv off for a couple nights and pop the tool box.

DunnyBunny

Or I can just pay you to do it for me lol or come down and help me. I'd rather the help so I can learn. Lol

Trevo

Awesome suggestions, not sure if I want to re-gear though as I heard the factory 4.10's are adequate? Could I just go with a Teraflex 2.5 BB? Can I also get spidertrac spacers for the stock 18" rims to save money?

Any idea on the typical cost to get truss/c gussets welded on? I'm not a welder by any means, I'd have to get it done by someone else.

I agree, I will probably just trim them to save the money after seeing pictures....it looks fine.

planman

Co4Lo is in Colorado Springs and might do the truss and C gussets for a reasonable price. http://www.co4lo.com

Rubicons have 17" wheels. You can run Spidertrax 1.75" thick wheel spacers. That would net you 4.5" backspaced wheels. It is doable with 37x12.50R17 tires, but you definitely will need to add washers to the steering stops to restrict your turning radius and avoid rubbing the tires hard against the frame and front swaybar on a full lock turn. Many people do run 37s on 4.5" backspaced wheels and just get used to the larger required turning radius.

4.10s and 37s with a 2012+ JK are doable for people who live at lower elevations, without much in hills or mountains, and have lighter weight jeeps.

If I lived and wheeled in the mountains in Colorado, I would prioritize regearing to 4.88s or 5.13s over just about any other modification because it is easier on the transmission to avoid frequent downshifting, and having 4.88s or 5.13s with a Rubi 4:1 transfer case makes a huge difference for technical type rock crawling with 37s.

I live in Montana at 3500 ft above sea level and drive mountain passes as high as 10,000 ft above sea level. So, I prioritized regearing over most everything else. I needed the power, didn't want to overheat transmissions from frequent downshifting, and I wanted more control off road.

If I was in your situation, I'd drive my jeep to Northridge4x4 Colorado when they are running one of their $1000 regear parts and labor specials and prioritize that over most everything else. I'd run a $600-$700 Teraflex 2.5" budget boost lift with shocks instead of a coil based kit if that is what I had to do to afford a $1000 regear at Northridge4x4 Colorado.

If they have things apart for a regear, an Artec truss with C gussets would require minimal extra labor for an install.

Driving I-70 with 37s and 4.10s would be miserable. With 35s, I-70 would be just bearable with a 2012+ Rubi and 4.10s.