2.5" vs 3.5" lift - similar or different considerations?
03-28-2017, 06:13 PM
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
2.5" vs 3.5" lift - similar or different considerations?
Just picked up a 2014 JK 2 door sport. Ready for some mods! I know that the higher the suspension lift, the more that has to be addressed - pinion angles, drive shafts, etc. Based on what I have read, lifts at or over 3.5" require these issues to be addressed through a more elaborate lift setup that includes control arms, etc, or you are asking for trouble or a crappy handling.
My question is: would a 2.5" suspension lift be significantly better with respect to these issues than a 3.5" lift? With a 2.5" lift, is it reasonable to just go for the springs (etc) and not adjustable control arms, possible drive shaft replacement, and all that? Just trying to find out if there's a big difference in issues to address between the two lifts or not. If the level of complexity that should be applied to either lift is about the same, I may go for the 3.5. If the 2.5 can be done more simply, and better maintain ride and wear, then that may be the best option.
For the sake of this question, assume tire fit, my use of the vehicle, etc., aren't a factor either way. I do enjoy the look of 3.5" of lift, however.
Thank you!
My question is: would a 2.5" suspension lift be significantly better with respect to these issues than a 3.5" lift? With a 2.5" lift, is it reasonable to just go for the springs (etc) and not adjustable control arms, possible drive shaft replacement, and all that? Just trying to find out if there's a big difference in issues to address between the two lifts or not. If the level of complexity that should be applied to either lift is about the same, I may go for the 3.5. If the 2.5 can be done more simply, and better maintain ride and wear, then that may be the best option.
For the sake of this question, assume tire fit, my use of the vehicle, etc., aren't a factor either way. I do enjoy the look of 3.5" of lift, however.
Thank you!
03-28-2017, 08:52 PM
#2
JK Jedi
lift size should be dependent on tire size and a what you want to do with it. If you don't car about performance then just throw what ever height you want on it. Shit if you think bigger is better throw 6" lift coils on and be done with it. It will ride like shit and be scary on the highway but hey look at you and your big lift.
03-29-2017, 12:34 AM
#3
JK Jedi Master
I wonder if this guy thought afterward, "Boy, I'm sure glad I didn't put that extra inch of lift on just because I thought it looks good!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0liUnVwLO4 As both you and Dirtman have said: What you do drives tire size. From that select the minimum lift for the best performance. You can't "just ignore" those two things.
Having written that, we all do things to our Jeeps because it "looks good". If 3.5 inches is truly important to you, then go for it. Just be aware that you may be throwing money away in a bid to compromise performance and reliability.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0liUnVwLO4 As both you and Dirtman have said: What you do drives tire size. From that select the minimum lift for the best performance. You can't "just ignore" those two things.
Having written that, we all do things to our Jeeps because it "looks good". If 3.5 inches is truly important to you, then go for it. Just be aware that you may be throwing money away in a bid to compromise performance and reliability.
03-29-2017, 07:40 AM
#4
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I wonder if this guy thought afterward, "Boy, I'm sure glad I didn't put that extra inch of lift on just because I thought it looks good!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0liUnVwLO4 As both you and Dirtman have said: What you do drives tire size. From that select the minimum lift for the best performance. You can't "just ignore" those two things.
Having written that, we all do things to our Jeeps because it "looks good". If 3.5 inches is truly important to you, then go for it. Just be aware that you may be throwing money away in a bid to compromise performance and reliability.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0liUnVwLO4 As both you and Dirtman have said: What you do drives tire size. From that select the minimum lift for the best performance. You can't "just ignore" those two things.
Having written that, we all do things to our Jeeps because it "looks good". If 3.5 inches is truly important to you, then go for it. Just be aware that you may be throwing money away in a bid to compromise performance and reliability.
Yeah, but I bet he did think "Boy I'm sure glad I did buy that heavy front bumper and winch!". I'm always amazed that so many 4-wheelers simply hit the gas when the going gets rough. That's the last resort and has to be well planned. I learned to gear low and crawl; it gets you through almost everything.
Point well taken on the use and tire size. Definitely the most important consideration.
03-29-2017, 07:49 AM
#5
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
lift size should be dependent on tire size and a what you want to do with it. If you don't car about performance then just throw what ever height you want on it. Shit if you think bigger is better throw 6" lift coils on and be done with it. It will ride like shit and be scary on the highway but hey look at you and your big lift.
03-29-2017, 07:55 AM
#6
Former Vendor
A 2.5" and 3.5" lift done properly are very similar and should have similar considerations. Some companies cheap out on the 2.5" lift because you can "get by" with less, but I wouldn't recommend it. We specialize in the JKS JSpec lifts for conventional coil and shock type suspensions, the reason I bring that up is because the 2.5" and 3.5" lifts are identical except for the coils, and that's how it should be.
A 3.5" will be a little harder on your factory driveshafts than a 2.5." The "best" way to do it is to simply plan your budget to throwing new aftermarket driveshafts so you don't have to worry about it. If you want to run your factory driveshafts, its certainly doable and isn't the "wrong" way, but you should check them before throwing on the lift. If your factory driveshafts are in good shape you can run them, they'll take quite a bit of abuse as long as they don't come in contact with rocks and tree stumps. I don't know how many miles your '14 has on it, but it's old enough that it's possible it's racked up some miles, if they're worn, don't bother replacing them with the factory stuff, just get some new ones from J.E. Reel or someone like them, or if you want we have driveshafts custom built to spec, we cut forum members a break on pricing as well.
The only thing about a 3.5" lift that is really worth noting is that you do get a little more bump steer with a taller lift. A 3.5" lift gives you room to do a draglink flip which will definitely flatten the steering out, but you do have to throw a larger bumpstop spacer and you lose some up travel because you have to keep the new draglink configuration from knocking the frame.
EDIT* After reading your original post again, you have a 2 door. Unless you're trying to stuff 37s under there, which poses its own problems on a Sport, I wouldn't bother with a 3.5" lift. I'd spend my money on a well dressed 2.5". Some LCAs and a couple of other added goodies will make a pretty bombproof'd and well mannered rig that will take care of your for a long, long time.
A 3.5" will be a little harder on your factory driveshafts than a 2.5." The "best" way to do it is to simply plan your budget to throwing new aftermarket driveshafts so you don't have to worry about it. If you want to run your factory driveshafts, its certainly doable and isn't the "wrong" way, but you should check them before throwing on the lift. If your factory driveshafts are in good shape you can run them, they'll take quite a bit of abuse as long as they don't come in contact with rocks and tree stumps. I don't know how many miles your '14 has on it, but it's old enough that it's possible it's racked up some miles, if they're worn, don't bother replacing them with the factory stuff, just get some new ones from J.E. Reel or someone like them, or if you want we have driveshafts custom built to spec, we cut forum members a break on pricing as well.
The only thing about a 3.5" lift that is really worth noting is that you do get a little more bump steer with a taller lift. A 3.5" lift gives you room to do a draglink flip which will definitely flatten the steering out, but you do have to throw a larger bumpstop spacer and you lose some up travel because you have to keep the new draglink configuration from knocking the frame.
EDIT* After reading your original post again, you have a 2 door. Unless you're trying to stuff 37s under there, which poses its own problems on a Sport, I wouldn't bother with a 3.5" lift. I'd spend my money on a well dressed 2.5". Some LCAs and a couple of other added goodies will make a pretty bombproof'd and well mannered rig that will take care of your for a long, long time.
Last edited by Trail Jeeps; 03-29-2017 at 07:58 AM.
03-29-2017, 08:13 AM
#7
JK Jedi
I've done a lot of thinking about your 6" lift recommendation. Maybe a better way to get the height and try to impress while not compromising highway ride as much would be a purely 6" body lift. It would have to be custom but I think it could be done. Happy to share if you are considering it.
I currently run 5" of lift with 40's and a long arm with 18" travel shocks. I can run as low as 2" of lift if I want but want to have 7" of up travel in my suspension for my go fast running.
Like I said before lift height should be a result of your tire size , what you want to do with it, and how you want it to perform.
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03-29-2017, 08:28 AM
#8
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
A 2.5" and 3.5" lift done properly are very similar and should have similar considerations. Some companies cheap out on the 2.5" lift because you can "get by" with less, but I wouldn't recommend it. We specialize in the JKS JSpec lifts for conventional coil and shock type suspensions, the reason I bring that up is because the 2.5" and 3.5" lifts are identical except for the coils, and that's how it should be.
A 3.5" will be a little harder on your factory driveshafts than a 2.5." The "best" way to do it is to simply plan your budget to throwing new aftermarket driveshafts so you don't have to worry about it. If you want to run your factory driveshafts, its certainly doable and isn't the "wrong" way, but you should check them before throwing on the lift. If your factory driveshafts are in good shape you can run them, they'll take quite a bit of abuse as long as they don't come in contact with rocks and tree stumps. I don't know how many miles your '14 has on it, but it's old enough that it's possible it's racked up some miles, if they're worn, don't bother replacing them with the factory stuff, just get some new ones from J.E. Reel or someone like them, or if you want we have driveshafts custom built to spec, we cut forum members a break on pricing as well.
The only thing about a 3.5" lift that is really worth noting is that you do get a little more bump steer with a taller lift. A 3.5" lift gives you room to do a draglink flip which will definitely flatten the steering out, but you do have to throw a larger bumpstop spacer and you lose some up travel because you have to keep the new draglink configuration from knocking the frame.
EDIT* After reading your original post again, you have a 2 door. Unless you're trying to stuff 37s under there, which poses its own problems on a Sport, I wouldn't bother with a 3.5" lift. I'd spend my money on a well dressed 2.5". Some LCAs and a couple of other added goodies will make a pretty bombproof'd and well mannered rig that will take care of your for a long, long time.
A 3.5" will be a little harder on your factory driveshafts than a 2.5." The "best" way to do it is to simply plan your budget to throwing new aftermarket driveshafts so you don't have to worry about it. If you want to run your factory driveshafts, its certainly doable and isn't the "wrong" way, but you should check them before throwing on the lift. If your factory driveshafts are in good shape you can run them, they'll take quite a bit of abuse as long as they don't come in contact with rocks and tree stumps. I don't know how many miles your '14 has on it, but it's old enough that it's possible it's racked up some miles, if they're worn, don't bother replacing them with the factory stuff, just get some new ones from J.E. Reel or someone like them, or if you want we have driveshafts custom built to spec, we cut forum members a break on pricing as well.
The only thing about a 3.5" lift that is really worth noting is that you do get a little more bump steer with a taller lift. A 3.5" lift gives you room to do a draglink flip which will definitely flatten the steering out, but you do have to throw a larger bumpstop spacer and you lose some up travel because you have to keep the new draglink configuration from knocking the frame.
EDIT* After reading your original post again, you have a 2 door. Unless you're trying to stuff 37s under there, which poses its own problems on a Sport, I wouldn't bother with a 3.5" lift. I'd spend my money on a well dressed 2.5". Some LCAs and a couple of other added goodies will make a pretty bombproof'd and well mannered rig that will take care of your for a long, long time.
03-29-2017, 08:33 AM
#9
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Good luck, I don't care for body lifts more then 1". You could do a 1.5"-2" lift which would need minimal amount of components and add a 1" body lift, you will still be more top heavy and experience more body roll. but you would get the extra height you are wanting with minimum geometry changes to the suspension.
I currently run 5" of lift with 40's and a long arm with 18" travel shocks. I can run as low as 2" of lift if I want but want to have 7" of up travel in my suspension for my go fast running.
Like I said before lift height should be a result of your tire size , what you want to do with it, and how you want it to perform.
I currently run 5" of lift with 40's and a long arm with 18" travel shocks. I can run as low as 2" of lift if I want but want to have 7" of up travel in my suspension for my go fast running.
Like I said before lift height should be a result of your tire size , what you want to do with it, and how you want it to perform.
In all seriousness, while I am not really a fan of body lift solutions, if I install a 2.5" suspension lift (all I really need), I could always add a 1" body lift in the future if I want a slight higher "look". This combination would probably result in pretty good on-road performance too, although it's not my daily driver.
03-31-2017, 02:17 PM
#10
JK Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Branford, CT
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2.5 is Plenty of Lift
If you get a good quality lift 2.5 on a 2 door its going to give you closer to 3" and with 35' tires and stock fenders there is plenty of room. see attached photos.
