Ohio2012wrangler

Ok, first the specs, I have a 2012 Wrangler 2 door with about a 4 inch lift, 20 inch wheels and 35 inch tires. I have new tie rod, new synergy drag link flipped, and new synergy track bar.

I still have the steering "wandering" wanting to follow the road, bump steer, whatever you want to call it. It goes into the shop Friday for another alignment. I don't know what else to check. It's driving me crazy.

sa29560

Caster correction? As in drop brackets or adjustable control arms?

4" is sky high for a 2 door.

Ohio2012wrangler

It might be a 3 inch lift, I don't know. The jeep was already lifted when I bought it.

Biginboca

Castor correction and tire pressure. Check those first! Then check your toe. Factory calls for slight toe in like 1/8", but some of us have had better results with 1/8" toe out after lift and bigger tires.

With 3-4" lift and a highsteer kit you should not have bump steer issues. Doubtful that is what you are experiencing.... but just make sure your lift didn't include a drop pitman arm and then you installed Synergy high steer with it. Those 2 together will make for a scary ride you need one or the other, preferably just the synergy high steer you have installed.

Canvas

What tires are you running? I know that some tires with bigger lugs will tend to follow the groves in the pavement and crown in the road. Yes check your caster and pinion angle along with the toe. this is something you can check yourself with the help of an assistant becuase trying to hold a tape measure at the same spot gets a bit tricky. An alignment normally will center your steering wheel unless you have adjustable upper and lower control arms.

I have the same issue because of running the Nitto Trail Grapplers. Also had an issue at one spot on the same road every day. I would roll over a raised man hole cover and would get a slight side to side movement in the steering wheel. As crazy as it sounds it was my steering stabilzer that was shot and causing the issue.

Interest in seeing what the fix will be.

R/
Will

PsychoCupcake

I didn't see it mentioned but if you have a flipped drag link, do you also have a raised front track bar bracket? You need both. You want the angle of the drag link to match the angle of the track bar.

Ohio2012wrangler

Thank you to everyone for the response.

I'm running toyo open country m/t tires. All control arms are not adjustable. The pitman arm looks to be stock. I do not have the front track bar relocation bracket installed because the "expert" at the parts website said I didn't need it when I ordered he flip drag link. Caster is incorrect. So I guess I'll need to spend $1,200 for 8 double adjustable control arms?

The movement I'm experiencing is like constant wandering, flighty, almost floating of the front end steering. Even on new pavement.

Chuck-The-Ripper

No, All you need are adjustable front lower control arms to set your castor and a Raised front track bar bracket. I would recommend the Artec bracket. I also live in Ohio, if you don't know how to weld shoot me a pm of your location and if you're close by I could get it all done for you.

DJ1

If you just want to address the loose steering first, you can get by with just getting adjustable front lower control arms. Then depending on how much actual lift you have and how your front driveshaft is, you may or may not need to upgrade your front upper control arms. The other option which is much cheaper is getting geometry brackets $100-$200 (AEV, JKS, etc.) instead of getting new front arms.


Since you've got the flipped drag link, like it's been mentioned make sure you get the upgraded trackbar bracket and make sure you have the correct bump stop extensions....


.

Chuck-The-Ripper

Not to argue, but there's really no need for front uppers if you have lowers. if your castor is set at 5* from the lowers and it's causing problems with your driveshaft, adding adjustable uppers won't solve anything; at least not without lowering your castor back down, which could be done by adjusting the lowers again.

That said, I do agree that geometry brackets are probably a better choice for you. I'm not sure of your wheeling habits but I would assume since you have 20's the small loss of ground clearance won't be a problem for you: which is their only real downfall.