2014 Willys, The true cost to go 37" with trail/Rock use?
03-09-2016, 08:25 AM
#21
I don't really know what sparked all of that, and I guess I really don't want to know. Apparently there are personalities that conflict with each other. It's all good. We all have our moments of assholeism. I shure have mine now and again.
Someone mentioned that the Synergy sector shaft and track bar brace are known to work with other track bars than the Synergy. I have a Synergy coming from NorthRidge, I also have the Rock Krawler bomb proof and I have the Mopar Performance forged adjustable. I don't know who actually makes the Mopar one. But is there any argument for not using the Synergy? I doubt it is as massive as the Rock Krawler, but if material type allows it to be equally as strong and it looks to have a significantly more pronounced clearance bend in it, maybe it is the hot ticket? Is there a reason to add more track bars to my stack on the floor?
Someone mentioned that the Synergy sector shaft and track bar brace are known to work with other track bars than the Synergy. I have a Synergy coming from NorthRidge, I also have the Rock Krawler bomb proof and I have the Mopar Performance forged adjustable. I don't know who actually makes the Mopar one. But is there any argument for not using the Synergy? I doubt it is as massive as the Rock Krawler, but if material type allows it to be equally as strong and it looks to have a significantly more pronounced clearance bend in it, maybe it is the hot ticket? Is there a reason to add more track bars to my stack on the floor?
If you're running the brace, I know the Teraflex trackbar won't work. Not sure about the others.
I currently have Synergy trackbar, tierod, & sector shaft brace. Upgrading to PSC hydro shortly....
Last edited by DJ1; 03-09-2016 at 08:27 AM.
03-09-2016, 08:28 AM
#22
JK Super Freak
I don't really know what sparked all of that, and I guess I really don't want to know. Apparently there are personalities that conflict with each other. It's all good. We all have our moments of assholeism. I shure have mine now and again.
Someone mentioned that the Synergy sector shaft and track bar brace are known to work with other track bars than the Synergy. I have a Synergy coming from NorthRidge, I also have the Rock Krawler bomb proof and I have the Mopar Performance forged adjustable. I don't know who actually makes the Mopar one. But is there any argument for not using the Synergy? I doubt it is as massive as the Rock Krawler, but if material type allows it to be equally as strong and it looks to have a significantly more pronounced clearance bend in it, maybe it is the hot ticket? Is there a reason to add more track bars to my stack on the floor?
Someone mentioned that the Synergy sector shaft and track bar brace are known to work with other track bars than the Synergy. I have a Synergy coming from NorthRidge, I also have the Rock Krawler bomb proof and I have the Mopar Performance forged adjustable. I don't know who actually makes the Mopar one. But is there any argument for not using the Synergy? I doubt it is as massive as the Rock Krawler, but if material type allows it to be equally as strong and it looks to have a significantly more pronounced clearance bend in it, maybe it is the hot ticket? Is there a reason to add more track bars to my stack on the floor?
I had issues with my synergy sector shaft and trackbar braces rubbing my synergy springs located with synergy control arms. I wish I had gone hydro assist instead. I ended up having to cut off a good portion of the trackbar brace and weld it to the sector shaft brace because the fasteners joining the 2 pieces were some of what was rubbing my springs. After many emails to synergy they had no solution.
03-09-2016, 08:50 AM
#23
JK Jedi
You don't know how many threads I have read thru the years of a new jeep owner wanting to throw a rough country 4"-6" lift and 37's on their brand new jeep. They know nothing of what else is needed to properly run 37's and they really have no idea how to drive off road. Thats the "jk crowd" I speak of.
03-09-2016, 09:00 AM
#24
JK Freak
Thread Starter
You don't know how many threads I have read thru the years of a new jeep owner wanting to throw a rough country 4"-6" lift and 37's on their brand new jeep. They know nothing of what else is needed to properly run 37's and they really have no idea how to drive off road. Thats the "jk crowd" I speak of.
Can I keep my jeep all totally factory stock and put an Ebay $800 14" lift and then 44 tires on it with the Sport Dana 44 and the stock Dana 30? I will wheel it carefully, so tell me that I will fine. If you don't tell me it will work, I'll post and post this question over and over on 17 forums until 1 person is willing to say that I'll be okay. Then I'll go and do it, and come back on all 17 forums to say how junky the lift is, how junky Jeeps are, and how much of a rip off the parts are.
03-09-2016, 09:04 AM
#25
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You don't know how many threads I have read thru the years of a new jeep owner wanting to throw a rough country 4"-6" lift and 37's on their brand new jeep. They know nothing of what else is needed to properly run 37's and they really have no idea how to drive off road. Thats the "jk crowd" I speak of.
03-09-2016, 09:21 AM
#26
You don't know how many threads I have read thru the years of a new jeep owner wanting to throw a rough country 4"-6" lift and 37's on their brand new jeep. They know nothing of what else is needed to properly run 37's and they really have no idea how to drive off road. Thats the "jk crowd" I speak of.
As for the op: sorry for the interruption, and knowing now of the traveling it takes to-from Rausch, I retract my previous statement about keeping the stock steering components just until you can fund them. ( my assumption would be that is in the near future, as you were only a bit off budget)
03-09-2016, 10:05 AM
#27
JK Freak
Thread Starter
correct sir, my plan would be to go to Ram assist steering sometime this early summer. I would like to follow up next Spring by doing a prorock Dana 60 rear with an E Locker is well. for the most part, I feel that once I get to the prorock rear axle I'm almost finished with the mods that are required for 37s Creek. then I should be setting on a JK that will allow me to have fun with minimal headaches. And that is exactly what I'm trying to get to.
03-09-2016, 12:25 PM
#28
JK Super Freak
correct sir, my plan would be to go to Ram assist steering sometime this early summer. I would like to follow up next Spring by doing a prorock Dana 60 rear with an E Locker is well. for the most part, I feel that once I get to the prorock rear axle I'm almost finished with the mods that are required for 37s Creek. then I should be setting on a JK that will allow me to have fun with minimal headaches. And that is exactly what I'm trying to get to.
03-09-2016, 12:36 PM
#29
JK Junkie
Your off to a great start, I'm lucky as I was able to go straight to the Dynatrac D44 and D60, also from Northwoods
I haven't had the need so far to go with the ram assist, my steering with the ARB lockers and 37's aired down
My next small mod will ever the steering box relocation and then upgrading from the single ARB compressor to the dual
Matthew
I haven't had the need so far to go with the ram assist, my steering with the ARB lockers and 37's aired down
My next small mod will ever the steering box relocation and then upgrading from the single ARB compressor to the dual
Matthew
It's already bought and paid for, shipping as we speak. I ordered this Monday.
The Ten Factory shafts were also ordered from Northridge, Monday I ordered the balance of my parts list from NorthRidge:
Synergy drag link
Synergy track bar
RK Lower arms for front
Master install kit
SuperChips F5 (Pre-Ordered)
Ten Factory rear shafts with bearings and tone rings installed (Easy)
Synergy sector shaft brace
Synergy track arm frame bracket brace
I bought the wheels in 2014! They are still new in the box setting in the garages. I'm going with Cooper STT Pro tires, be it 35 or 37.
I want to do the Redneck Ram Assist, and I will, but I am $8,000 in for this spring with the $5100 axle and the tires included. I am dangerously close to the wife starting to get tight with me. The Redneck ram assist will come, but I need to lay low for a couple months.
Next spring I will do a D60 rear. That should complete the major expense part. Then I will look into lifting it a bit more. I like the idea of "as low as possible, as high as needed", and with the 2" advertised Mopar lift and 1.25" body lift, I am about 3.75" actual lift from wheel hub to fender flare. I may be able to do minimal rear pinch seam cutting and clear the 37" rubber in such a fashion that I don't actually want to go any higher? I can't answer that until I get the 37" rubber mounted and see what hits what.
I prefer to keep the factory tubs and flares, my personal taste is that I like the look of the factory flares and I like the tubs keeping debris out of the engine area and also from beating the paint from the body tub. Not sure with my conservative lift if I can find a way to keep the plastic tubs and flares. I may be forced to slice and dice. I'm emotionally preparing for that "what if", but I will look at it with the opinion that if I can not cut, I will not. Or I will minimalize the cutting if possible.
The Ten Factory shafts were also ordered from Northridge, Monday I ordered the balance of my parts list from NorthRidge:
Synergy drag link
Synergy track bar
RK Lower arms for front
Master install kit
SuperChips F5 (Pre-Ordered)
Ten Factory rear shafts with bearings and tone rings installed (Easy)
Synergy sector shaft brace
Synergy track arm frame bracket brace
I bought the wheels in 2014! They are still new in the box setting in the garages. I'm going with Cooper STT Pro tires, be it 35 or 37.
I want to do the Redneck Ram Assist, and I will, but I am $8,000 in for this spring with the $5100 axle and the tires included. I am dangerously close to the wife starting to get tight with me. The Redneck ram assist will come, but I need to lay low for a couple months.
Next spring I will do a D60 rear. That should complete the major expense part. Then I will look into lifting it a bit more. I like the idea of "as low as possible, as high as needed", and with the 2" advertised Mopar lift and 1.25" body lift, I am about 3.75" actual lift from wheel hub to fender flare. I may be able to do minimal rear pinch seam cutting and clear the 37" rubber in such a fashion that I don't actually want to go any higher? I can't answer that until I get the 37" rubber mounted and see what hits what.
I prefer to keep the factory tubs and flares, my personal taste is that I like the look of the factory flares and I like the tubs keeping debris out of the engine area and also from beating the paint from the body tub. Not sure with my conservative lift if I can find a way to keep the plastic tubs and flares. I may be forced to slice and dice. I'm emotionally preparing for that "what if", but I will look at it with the opinion that if I can not cut, I will not. Or I will minimalize the cutting if possible.
03-09-2016, 12:44 PM
#30
JK Newbie
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Agreed, but I wouldn't guess that's the plan, OP probably wants the lug pattern to match