Roryslife

Exactly. Nothing wrong with buying in pieces as long as you have and end game in mind.

mattyk

Shipping costs add up if you don't get free shipping then you're always under the jeep to put a pice on here, put a piece on there instead of knocking it all out at once.

I'd save for the full kit. But this only because I bought a a basic bds kit and now doing the full turn around to the 3.5 X factor. Wish I did it right the first time.

Also keep in mind, with the RK arms, they two different sets of rear LCAs. One set is compatible with their uppers. One set is not. Get ahold of Marcus at rivercityoffroad.com and he'll get ya set up properly

Honestabel

There's no where I'd rather be then working on my Jeep...other than riding trails.

mhockey9090

Did i say it sucks for you or any other member here? No i said it sucked for me. My old truck went from 6,9,8,11, to 17 inches of lift piecing things together here and there. I am not rich and do not have all the time in the world so thats why i'm waiting to buy the complete kit instead of a basic and then adding stuff later. Read below post as it explains it well.

Exactly thank you.

Jeepstin12

I have the FT SRS 3". It came with all lowers and no uppers and it is perfectly well off road and on. However, noting you want to push the axles out, get the rear up uppers and front lowers. Reason being is the geometry. I also have extended brake line brackets (came with the kit and work fine), front sway bar links (relocated fronts to rear) and I ordered the shocks super eatery. Fox 2.0's for 2-4" lift. The only thing my lift will cost me additional will be the uppers which are easy to change and I will still get an alignment after. Free shipping if you catch the deals at the right time. Essentially, not costing any more or compromising. Had I known the rear ca would bring the axle closer at the time for correct drive shaft alignment, I would have asked for the uppers instead. Not an issue as I plan on doing all CA's anyway. Cheers!

Honestabel

Thanks! I guess I'm confused about how the control arms work together. Could someone explain this a little. Also what do the AEV geo brackets do.

nthinuf

One set of control arms will 'tilt' the top or bottom of the housing.
Front Uppers:
Lengthen - tilts top of housings forward - raises pinion / lowers caster
Shorten - tilts top backward - lowers pinion / raises caster
Front Lowers:
Lengthen - tilts bottom of housing forward - lowers pinion / raises caster
Shorten - tilts bottom backward - raises pinion / lowers caster

Adding the second set lets you move the entire housing forward/backward in the wheel well, as well as giving more adjustability for fine tuning caster/pinion.

As you lift higher, both axles are pulled toward the center of your jeep, reducing overall wheel base, and both pinions tilt up, reducing the caster. As noted above, caster and pinion are inversely affected. When caster is raised, the pinion is automatically lowered. On taller lifts, this can cause issues, since to get good caster, you can put the pinion down far enough to cause driveline vibrations. (which can wear out joints and has been known to explode transfer cases)


The brackets bolt to where the front control arms attach to the frame, then have some holes further down and forward for the arms to bolt to. This has the effect of tilting the housing to raise caster, (and moving the housing a bit forward to regain wheelbase??), like adj arms would do. It also lowers the frame end of the arms, making the arms more parallel to the frame/ground, which gives better 'onroad' performance than having steeper angles.

Honestabel

Thanks man! You made that really easy to understand. I've read a lot of threads on it. Just never explained in a way my simple mind could understand.

n3tfury

Most every dealer ships for free and certainly most of the sponsors on this site.

Me neither.

Honestabel

What bump stop should I use with the 3.5 coils and 37s?