35 inch vs 37 inch tires
10-07-2015, 10:44 AM
#21
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2. In every single thread like this, some guy jumps in who "beats on his stock D30/D44 and it's fine."
Depends on how YOU drive though. As I stated, if you are a throttle monkey, and enjoy having a locker and spinning it on ledges, it won't hold for very long.
I'm open, which helps, but if you remember you are on a weaker axle and drive for it, you'll be just fine.
If you are hopping up a ledge and and bouncing the wheels at 50km/h and having them alternately hook, spin, hook, etc, a built 44 on 29's'll blow eventually.
Depends on how YOU drive though. As I stated, if you are a throttle monkey, and enjoy having a locker and spinning it on ledges, it won't hold for very long.
I'm open, which helps, but if you remember you are on a weaker axle and drive for it, you'll be just fine.
If you are hopping up a ledge and and bouncing the wheels at 50km/h and having them alternately hook, spin, hook, etc, a built 44 on 29's'll blow eventually.
10-07-2015, 11:19 AM
#22
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It hasn't happened to you, so it can't happen to anyone. Gotcha.
These front housings have been known to bend and shatter while onroad just hitting potholes and curbs --> while bone stock, you don't even need 35's or 37's. That is why people need to listen to both sides of the argument, at least price out the 'cheap insurance' options so they have a frame of reference, and then decide for themselves what is right or what is in the budget. While admittedly it is not a huge percentage, it has happened. It does happen. And none of us can say who will or won't have a problem.
One of my favorites. Onroad. Stock tires. Low speed. Just running up on a sidewalk to avoid an accident.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...e-help-161915/
But, it hasn't happened to you, so it can't happen to anyone else...
These front housings have been known to bend and shatter while onroad just hitting potholes and curbs --> while bone stock, you don't even need 35's or 37's. That is why people need to listen to both sides of the argument, at least price out the 'cheap insurance' options so they have a frame of reference, and then decide for themselves what is right or what is in the budget. While admittedly it is not a huge percentage, it has happened. It does happen. And none of us can say who will or won't have a problem.
One of my favorites. Onroad. Stock tires. Low speed. Just running up on a sidewalk to avoid an accident.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...e-help-161915/
But, it hasn't happened to you, so it can't happen to anyone else...
10-07-2015, 11:21 AM
#23
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I compare it to the way a stock Jeep with stock tires drives, accelerates and turns. Isn't that what you are trying to achieve when re-gearing and adding steering components?
10-07-2015, 11:30 AM
#24
Hell, just adding wheel spacers and giving it a wider stance instantly makes it handle better than stock.
Last edited by mds22; 10-07-2015 at 11:33 AM.
10-07-2015, 11:33 AM
#25
JK Enthusiast
I equate my Jeeps with my motorcycles and women.
Do 37's look awesome ? Of course they do. But they suck on a daily driver. They rob you of acceleration ( whether you re-gear or not),braking, and safe handling. And they are big $$$. They also limit your re-sale options.
Choppers look badazz too but i don't want to ever ride one again.
Smoking hot women are nice too. But always remember, No matter how good that JK on 37's, that Chopper, or that hot woman looks, somewhere there's a guy that's had enough of it's(or her's) Sh!t.
35's are the sweet spot.
Do 37's look awesome ? Of course they do. But they suck on a daily driver. They rob you of acceleration ( whether you re-gear or not),braking, and safe handling. And they are big $$$. They also limit your re-sale options.
Choppers look badazz too but i don't want to ever ride one again.
Smoking hot women are nice too. But always remember, No matter how good that JK on 37's, that Chopper, or that hot woman looks, somewhere there's a guy that's had enough of it's(or her's) Sh!t.
35's are the sweet spot.
I also choose 35s on the Jeep, ride a cruiser that is not chopped, and... am married to a fine woman who I won't talk any crap about.
10-07-2015, 11:38 AM
#26
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are you saying with 37s?? For me both are "needed" with 37s. And everyone that has both mods with 37s have said those 2 were their favorite 2 mods. Technically you are right you don't "need" anything but coils, brakelines, and shocks. But if you want it to ride correctly you do "need" things. Ride quality is subjective and some "need" more and some are ok with less.
10-07-2015, 11:41 AM
#27
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I just installed a set of 37s on my 2014 JKU Rubicon so I can give you my opinion. My Jeep is an auto with 4.10 gears. I went with a Kanati Mud Hog 37x12.5x17 on my stock Rubicon wheel and 1.5" spacers. I have a RockKrawler 3.5" Flex lift and stock fenders. Keep in mind if you go with RockKrawler, the bump stops are not included in the kit. First of all, many 37" tires are actually around 36" installed on the Jeep running the appropriate psi. Mine measured 36.25" @ 27psi cold. My wheel and tire combo weigh 96.5 lbs. Gearing: In my opinion, it is not crucial to upgrade gearing at this time. Maybe 4.56 or 4.88 will help in the future, especially acceleration, if you are terribly unhappy, but so far I'm good. If anything, I will re-gear to help with towing my boat, which although doable with my current setup, it was not great. Gussets: It is a bigger tire, gussets are a cheap way to reinforce the c's to prevent more expensive fixes in the future. Sleves: I probably will not need, but can't hurt. Steering: In my opinion, you can wait and see, but mine feels fine. Brakes: I did noticed the difference here, especially when towing. I expect to upgrade my brakes in the near future, probably when it comes time to replace the pads. Cutting and trimming: You will have to cut about 2" off the Rubicon Rails before you install the tires or you will have to remove them in order to drive home. I still need to test my up travel to see how much I will need to cut the fenders. Looks: badass... Next to the stock Rubi tire.
10-07-2015, 11:41 AM
#28
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For a daily drive to drive "close" to as good as stock-
2.5" lift w/ 35s = just the cost of the lift and welding on Cs
3.5" lift w/ 35s = more $ for the lifts and many more things needed to handle correctly. New drive shaft, C gussets. New Drag link flipped.
3.5" lift w/ 37s = all above, plus hydro assist stealing (2k) 100% need to regear (1,600) and a greater chance of stuff breaking.
Conclusion- for a daily drive and what you described, stay with 35s and under 2.5 inches.
My 2014 w/ 3.73 had a 3.5" RK with 35s. I "thought" it was great and drove great. Until I had first hand experience driving other jeeps, not internet recommendations from people with there only experience being the set up they have on their jeep.
I now have a 2015 rubi with EVO leveling kit/ flat fenders / and 35s.(I have many items that are "not needed" with my kit such as LCAs and sway bar links, but I want my jeep dialed in as good as I can get it) I have spent 1/3 the money on this set up and my jeep has just as much flex/travel, is just as capable (unless it's a water crossing), and most importantly to me it rides and handles 1million times better on-road.
I will stay with this until I go with coil overs /37s /regear in the distant future when this jeep is no longer my DD.
2.5" lift w/ 35s = just the cost of the lift and welding on Cs
3.5" lift w/ 35s = more $ for the lifts and many more things needed to handle correctly. New drive shaft, C gussets. New Drag link flipped.
3.5" lift w/ 37s = all above, plus hydro assist stealing (2k) 100% need to regear (1,600) and a greater chance of stuff breaking.
Conclusion- for a daily drive and what you described, stay with 35s and under 2.5 inches.
My 2014 w/ 3.73 had a 3.5" RK with 35s. I "thought" it was great and drove great. Until I had first hand experience driving other jeeps, not internet recommendations from people with there only experience being the set up they have on their jeep.
I now have a 2015 rubi with EVO leveling kit/ flat fenders / and 35s.(I have many items that are "not needed" with my kit such as LCAs and sway bar links, but I want my jeep dialed in as good as I can get it) I have spent 1/3 the money on this set up and my jeep has just as much flex/travel, is just as capable (unless it's a water crossing), and most importantly to me it rides and handles 1million times better on-road.
I will stay with this until I go with coil overs /37s /regear in the distant future when this jeep is no longer my DD.
10-07-2015, 12:07 PM
#29
because much more goes into getting "better" than stock and I was giving a general recommendation of height. Just because I prefer better ride quality doesn't mean he/you or anyone else wants the same.
I said "I" want it to perform/ride/handle as good as it can
I stand by my brief recommendations for "close" to stock (IN MY OPINION).
and can say you are (IMO) wrong with saying 37s without regearing is "close" to stock that's ridiculous.
Simple math is that if you put something on your jeep that also brings a negative side, you have to add something to compensate or correct that negative.
I said "I" want it to perform/ride/handle as good as it can
I stand by my brief recommendations for "close" to stock (IN MY OPINION).
and can say you are (IMO) wrong with saying 37s without regearing is "close" to stock that's ridiculous.
Simple math is that if you put something on your jeep that also brings a negative side, you have to add something to compensate or correct that negative.
10-07-2015, 12:13 PM
#30
I own homes in Florida as well(Orlando and Miami), and if I lived there year round and never went up so much as a rolling hill on a daily basis, maybe I could get by with less. But I still wouldn't give recommendations based on that.