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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
I am trying to decide whether to put 35 inch or 37 inch tires on my 2014 JKU Rubicon with manual transmission. I really like the look of 37s but I have heard that these require a lot of other modifications to the drivetrain. My Jeep is a daily driver, for now, and most of my off road adventures will be mild, no hard core rock crawling. Can anyone help me better understand the cost / benefits of going to 37s? What drivetrain mods will I most certainly need to consider between the 2 size wheels? Btw, I plan on a 3.5 inch lift if that helps. Probably AEV or OME. Thanks
I have a 2014 Rubi with manual tranny, 4.10s and 37" Nittos. Are stock 4.10s doable? Yes, but say goodbye to 6th gear and plan on down shifting to 4th gear on long highway hills
I have a 2014 Rubi with manual tranny, 4.10s and 37" Nittos. Are stock 4.10s doable? Yes, but say goodbye to 6th gear and plan on down shifting to 4th gear on long highway hills
Yeah, with a manual it starts to suck. You will have some sick rowing skills though. I had 35s with 3.73 gearing and a light 2-door manual in my 2013. Yeah, forget 6th gear unless you're doing over 80. I never looked forward to highway driving. I did a trip from Baltimore to IN and it was rolling hills the whole way. On average, I shifted every two minutes. No joke, the next day my leg and hip were so sore I could barely walk.
4.88s and 37s were awesome. 6th gear on the highway most of the time. Downshift to 5th on steeper hills.
You can certainly run 37" as a DD with no problem at all. Comes down to how much your willing or able to pay for it. Will it be overkill? You decide that- your money.
Speaking of my own experience. A few weeks ago i put 37" with PR44 and 4:88 on 2013 JKU Sport. Drives extremely well and its my DD.
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=626592"/> And exactly why do 35 inch tires vs 37 inch tires differ in c-gusset install costs?
I can't speak for the majority, as I do not wheel my rig, which ice freely admitted multiple times on the forum. But I had 37 inch trail grapplers on my factory d30 and d44 axles w no additional strengthening for 3 years and had no problems. I never referred, it was a 6 speed and it was a pig. Got an automatic 2015, I have 37" toyo open country RTs. Haven't regeared yet but have 5.13s sitting in the basement for after the winter, but she drives like a dream
I am trying to decide whether to put 35 inch or 37 inch tires on my 2014 JKU Rubicon with manual transmission. I really like the look of 37s but I have heard that these require a lot of other modifications to the drivetrain. My Jeep is a daily driver, for now, and most of my off road adventures will be mild, no hard core rock crawling.
Can anyone help me better understand the cost / benefits of going to 37s? What drivetrain mods will I most certainly need to consider between the 2 size wheels?
Btw, I plan on a 3.5 inch lift if that helps. Probably AEV or OME.
Thanks
Lot of advice here, so OP let me just add what I've learned from experince over the past 6 1/2 years building my '09 JKUR. The rig replaced a very stout '94 YJ (Dynatrac D44 ARB / D60 Detroit, Atlas II, TR beads, 37" IROKs) and was to be driven, rather than trailered to the trails. I'd gotten tired of schlepping the trailer, managing the tow rig, trailer and Jeep, to the point it became a PITA and was reducing my trail time. I traded the truck in on the JK, sold the YJ and trailer, the proceeds being my budget for the JKUR build. With some conversations with a couple 4x4 shops and Forum questions like this one I became convinced all my new JKUR needed was a 3" lift & 35s, and I wouldn't have to regear past the stock 4.10s.
WRONG!!!
A summer of wheeling the local mountains, and one trip to Moab convinced me it wasn't nearly enough rig. The 3.8L couldn't handle the 4.10 gears, so I went 4.88s on a recommendation and overall they turned out to be too low (numerically). Still helped a great deal. The good news was that I'd bought a 4" suspension with 3" springs, so I swapped in the kit mfr's 4" springs, sold off the 3"'ers and sold the 35s & got 37s. Now I had a rig. Along the way we sleeved & gusseted the front axle, changed out the axle shafts, installed a manual front hub kit, upgraded to a big brake kit, added a full skid set and sliders, bumpers, winch, etc. and regeared again to 5.38s. I went from the kit mfr's short arm to their long arm system, installed a WTOR hydro boost, a new angle-corrrected front housing, Reid knuckles, Synergy drag link & tie rod, flares, yadayada.....there is no end in sight.
SO, lesson learned. If you're like most of us you won't be satisfied with your initial build. You have to start somewhere, and by now the number of suspesnion, wheel & tire vendors has really proliferated. Best rule of thumb, select from suspension brands that have fully featured kits, with a clear upgrade path to the next level. That is, get a suspension that's fully spec'd and that you can build on as your wheeling adventures get more challenging. Avoid "budget" kits and be sure the kit mfr addresses track bar / drag link correction, caster/pinion angle, bump stops, extended sway bar links, etc. You get what you pay for and it makes no sense to buy a $45,000 rig, then think you saved $1,500 on a budget lift that turns the Jeep into an ill handling brick.
I equate my Jeeps with my motorcycles and women. Do 37's look awesome ? Of course they do. But they suck on a daily driver. They rob you of acceleration ( whether you re-gear or not),braking, and safe handling. And they are big $$$. They also limit your re-sale options. Choppers look badazz too but i don't want to ever ride one again. Smoking hot women are nice too. But always remember, No matter how good that JK on 37's, that Chopper, or that hot woman looks, somewhere there's a guy that's had enough of it's(or her's) Sh!t. 35's are the sweet spot.
I have 4.88 gears. I switched from 35's to 37's. I got better pick-up and acceleration. Haven't gone off road yet, but Im happy I made the decision. The metal Poison Spyder Crusher Fender Flares gave me just that inch more that I needed in the wheel well to flex. I had the Bushwacker flat flares. They probably would have touched at full flex, but not enough to do any damage. Daily driver would have been fine. I also upgraded my brakes a while back. Here's a BEFORE/ AFTER; Bushwacker Flares w.35s/ Spyder Flares w.37s. I feel like the 35s are aggressive yet subtle; while the 37s are just aggressive. Anything larger than 37 is just plain mean! LOL
10-08-2015, 04:39 PM
35 tires vs 37 tires
