coolhand129

I am trying to decide whether to put 35 inch or 37 inch tires on my 2014 JKU Rubicon with manual transmission. I really like the look of 37s but I have heard that these require a lot of other modifications to the drivetrain. My Jeep is a daily driver, for now, and most of my off road adventures will be mild, no hard core rock crawling.

Can anyone help me better understand the cost / benefits of going to 37s? What drivetrain mods will I most certainly need to consider between the 2 size wheels?

Btw, I plan on a 3.5 inch lift if that helps. Probably AEV or OME.

Thanks

Invest2m4

You'll want to get c-gussets either way.

With 37s, you will likely have to run wheel spacers (not a big deal). The big cost with 37s is that you'll want to regear the axles. That's probably $1500. You can suffer a while with the 4.10s, but as a daily driver, you'll want 4.88s.

Other than that, you're fine. Well, some people are really bothered by the weak stock brakes. 37s make braking a bit more of a thoughtful process.

TreyJK

For 35's, you're looking at cheaper tires, c gussets, possibly not having to regear, and maybe the addition of sleeves only if you wheel hard. So discount tire has some Nitto Trail Graps (just for the sake of example) for sale at $330. 334x5= $1670. Then add the cost of c gussets ($60+labor). Grand total of appx $2000 not including taxes. For 37's, you'll want to regear ($1000), definitely add C gussets ($60+labor), definitely add sleeves or a truss ($100-$200+labor) and 37" Trail Graps ($384x5=$1920). Grand total of appx $3170 without taxes or labor. However, with 37's, you'll wear out suspension and steering components quickly (usually depending on how you wheel and/or drive) so you should be prepared to deal with those issues as they surface. Most people go with 35's because they don't really NEED any more tire. Yeah, 37" tires look awesome, but they just aren't worth the added expenses for most people. Heck, if you're easy on the go pedal, you don't really need c gussets, sleeves, trusses, or a regear with 35's. When you throw on 37's, you add a lot of rolling weight, which can be detrimental to the drivetrain, requiring the addition of gussets, brackets, and other reinforcements. As far as your lift goes, you should be fine either way. If the tires are rubbing on the fender flares, you can trim them pretty easily or just get new flares. With all that said, get which ever tires you and your wallet like best!

mds22

For a daily drive to drive "close" to as good as stock-
2.5" lift w/ 35s = just the cost of the lift and welding on Cs

3.5" lift w/ 35s = more $ for the lifts and many more things needed to handle correctly. New drive shaft, C gussets. New Drag link flipped.

3.5" lift w/ 37s = all above, plus hydro assist stealing (2k) 100% need to regear (1,600) and a greater chance of stuff breaking.

Conclusion- for a daily drive and what you described, stay with 35s and under 2.5 inches.

My 2014 w/ 3.73 had a 3.5" RK with 35s. I "thought" it was great and drove great. Until I had first hand experience driving other jeeps, not internet recommendations from people with there only experience being the set up they have on their jeep.
I now have a 2015 rubi with EVO leveling kit/ flat fenders / and 35s.(I have many items that are "not needed" with my kit such as LCAs and sway bar links, but I want my jeep dialed in as good as I can get it) I have spent 1/3 the money on this set up and my jeep has just as much flex/travel, is just as capable (unless it's a water crossing), and most importantly to me it rides and handles 1million times better on-road.
I will stay with this until I go with coil overs /37s /regear in the distant future when this jeep is no longer my DD.

nickels

All I want to say is that I BEAT on my stock D30 with 35's with no ill effects, yet. Hard rock crawling.

If you plan on picking a lighter 35 (my wheel/tire is under 90lb), additional strength isn't needed for light trail/daily use.

If you are getting over 100lb per and are going to be giving it the go pedal and hopping tires, then you need to rethink things.

Monte417

You don't need to spend 2k on hydro assist and you certainly don't "need" 3.5" of lift to run 37s

BeachJK

If you have 4.10 gears, I wouldn't regear until you drive it a bit and feel it's necessary. I know someone with 2014 running stock 4.10 and says it's no problem at all. Just try it before you drop $1,500.

And absolutely no need for hydro assist.

mds22

The one jeep that had 37s without it was unbearable to me (personal preference). The PSC that I would recommend runs 2k.

[/QUOTE] and you certainly don't "need" 3.5" of lift to run 37s[/QUOTE]

I just used the 3.5 b/c that is what he was talking about. And was assuming he was staying stock everywhere else(fender flares)

Monte417

and you certainly don't "need" 3.5" of lift to run 37s[/QUOTE] I just used the 3.5 b/c that is what he was talking about. And was assuming he was staying stock everywhere else(fender flares)[/QUOTE]

I'm sure the psc kit is very capable and the most complete system but have you ever run 1.5 ram with the stock pump? For 37s this is a very capable setup and works perfect. Wto stage 2 kit is under a grand not including a cooler. If you were running 40s or larger I can see a psc system making more sense but in many cases the redneck ram setup will suite most people fine

LidLess07X

I equate my Jeeps with my motorcycles and women.

Do 37's look awesome ? Of course they do. But they suck on a daily driver. They rob you of acceleration ( whether you re-gear or not),braking, and safe handling. And they are big $$$. They also limit your re-sale options.

Choppers look badazz too but i don't want to ever ride one again.


Smoking hot women are nice too. But always remember, No matter how good that JK on 37's, that Chopper, or that hot woman looks, somewhere there's a guy that's had enough of it's(or her's) Sh!t.

35's are the sweet spot.