2012JKNY

Thanks a lot for the info guys! I will definitely be ordering them and have read plenty about how to make sure they're welded properly so not to damage the ball joints.

One more question, is welding in C gussets first, going to make it more difficult to change the ball joints? I'm not going to change them just yet because they are practically new, but does one get in the way of the other at all? Thanks again!

TURTLECON

Just had mine done... doesn't seem like they're in the way.




If you have a shop doing it, might as well get CA skids too since the welder is already out.

nosnhoj1

I've had my '12 for almost 2 years now and just hit 25000 miles this week. I've had a 2.5 lift and 35" Mud Grapplers on it since week 2 at 400 miles. I also just added 1" spacers for a little more lift. It sees 75% on road and 25% dirt, fire roads, and trails. I'm not easy on it at all, but here in S Ga there aren't many rocks. I don't have C gussets, trusses, sleeves, aftermarket driveshafts, exhaust spacers, or any of the other "must haves for running 35's with a D30." Amazingly, I've had no problems with the "cheap" setup I have. 90% or more of the JK's out there are never going to do any more than light off-roading. If you plan on rock crawling and more difficult trails, by all means I understand these mods are necessary. Given the OP's description of use, I highly doubt any drivetrain mods are necessary. The term "cheap insurance" used to refer to beefing up an axle seems a little odd to me given the total bill if you do everything deemed "necessary" by most on here. The cheapest insurance is just that, the bill you already pay for your auto insurance. If you hit a pothole or a washout and bend something, it's covered. Understand, I'm not referring to those of you that drag your skid plates over rock ledges and use your jeeps as rock buggies. I'm just speaking for the other 90% of us that enjoy riding with the doors off and top down on the weekend down boring easy trails and only rarely lifting a tire through a wash or gully. But what do I know? After all, I'm running 3.21 gears with 35's.

MtraXX

Wont make it more difficult to replace the ball joints later but the shop that I spoke with for the welding, he said he couldnt guarantee that the stock balls wouldnt get damaged during the welding. Since I'm experiencing a slight wobble in my steering, I'm going to swap the balls anyway to eliminate that as an issue.

2012JKNY

Thanks again for all the info guys, as always! It's great to hear opinions and experiences from both sides. I would really love to know how the JK runs with 35s and the stock 3.21 gearing with a 6 speed! I guess I'll find out soon enough!

Riznoy

The proper way to install the c-gusset is to remove the ball joint, that being said usually when u remove a ball joint you won't be able to use it again. I had my 12 rubi on 35s for about 9 months before I did sleeves gussets and ball joints.

You don't want to keep stock ball joints on and have them weld on the gussets, go home and realize they were damaged because of the heat, then go back and pay for labor again to replace the ball joints, just do it all at once. I'm assuming you're in NY, I recommend Globex Performance in Toms River, NJ for getting the work done, they are pretty fair on price and they do this stuff at least twice a week.

Sahara Lee

I'm still waiting for someone to invent a "bolt on" gusset.

Ryan0260

I think of it as cheap insurance. Your axle c can be bent just by hitting a pothole. Running without them with big tires is always a gamble..

SSmileys12JKU

35s and the 3.21?? Hmmm, would be saving for gears. I'm on 35s and have the stock 4.10s, they are ok. That being said I'm sure a gear change will be in order for me as the jeep seems gutless when running hills on the highway. Around town isn't too bad. And reverse, don't get me started on that gear with 35s, just plain sucks backing up any grade, let alone trying to do it with the trailer I use it with sometimes.

GoBig

Where did you get yours done? I too live in the South Bay.