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35s without lift

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Old 04-28-2011, 07:15 AM
  #21  
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bluerubi,
it looks like your running stock and untrimmed frenders with your 315's do you have any problems with rubbing anywhere? im about to do the same thisn any advice?
Old 04-28-2011, 04:11 PM
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Im curious too about the 35s no lift as I have 315/75/16 duratracs on the way the bs on wheels is 4.25. im thinking i should be ok with no lift for a little bit.
Old 04-28-2011, 05:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mark
I've ben running 35s for over a year with no lift. My rock krawler lift is currently in the mail but that has baring on this subject-i just want to brag

Until i got my wheels with 4.5BS i had stock 17's with no spacer. The only thing i needed to be aware of was turning the wheel all the way. You can still turn it 90% of the way, just all the way rubs the swaybar(and thats not even that big of a deal).
Just dont do it ALL the time. Make wider turns.

I had to trim the "wings" off the air dam with a razor blade, thats the only trimming i've done. 37's iss where youll need to start trimming more.

Never a fender rub, unless flexing it out. Order your 35's, slap them on there, and not worry about it. Youll be getting your lift soon anyway.
Ran tires in sig with spacers for about 2500 miles.. No Wheelin and it is doable.. a little rub on the fender when hitting large bumps.. Only other advice I would give is drop a washer into the steering stops and you'll prevent the rub.. see the project jk write up. Finally put the lift on, much better.
Old 04-28-2011, 06:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jchmelojk
bluerubi,
it looks like your running stock and untrimmed frenders with your 315's do you have any problems with rubbing anywhere? im about to do the same thisn any advice?
I have only had a very slight rub once on the rock rail plastic cap (Passenger side). That was with a full tank of gas and 3 people (2 adults and 1 two year old) in the Jeep. I hit a big dip in the road and heard a very slight rub. I plan to cut the rails very soon and install a 2.5 inch TF lift. The lift isn't needed though if you just run on the road. Simply trimming the rails and pinch seem will be fine. I have tested on ghetto home made RTI ramp and the tire will tuck under the flares when compressed.

Rim selection is important, I spent a long time researching width, back spacing, and offset. I really like the 8 inch rim with 0 offset. This keeps the 35s just under the flares. I didn't want them to stick out and throw rocks and mud all of the time.
Old 04-28-2011, 06:39 PM
  #25  
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I forgot to mention that I do have an AEV bumper. So the factory plastic air dam isn't there anymore.
Old 04-29-2011, 07:57 AM
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I put my 35's on a week before my lift and I had no problems at all. Stock rims and spacers.
Old 04-24-2012, 09:01 AM
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Sahara Unlimited. I run 35" Mickey Thompson's with flat flares and no lift. I trimmed my Rubi Rails, Air Dam and Pinch Seem. The one place I rub is the rear fender liners when I have more than two people in the Jeep or two and a full tank of gas. Pretty annoying but I've gotten away without a lift for about 5 months. Lift is in the mail now Click image for larger version

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Old 10-25-2014, 09:41 AM
  #28  
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I have a 2" bb and 315/70 17 duratracs
Trimmed air dam and was considering trimming the rock rails. I jacked the front drivers side tire as high as I could to see if it would touch. It's close but it doesn't.

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Old 10-25-2014, 09:42 AM
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:04 AM
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It may look like it can clear, but any flexing of the axle forward or back, or of the tire gets stuffed into the fender, it could cause the pinch seam and rail to hit the tire and cause damage.

I would advise trimming, and have done so myself to my 2011.

I took 1.5" off the back of the rails, and trimmed the pinch seam back about an inch at the bottom and diagonally up to the edge. There's a vid on youtube on how to do this.
once you've trimmed the pinch seam, pack the now-open area with JB weld and paint it body color. That will protect from rust and make it look factory.



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