JK_Jeff

creepy crawlers are awesome just heard the tread life sucks

robsjeep9

I bought the TR's as well with the World Series ring like the PSC jeep pic..... Going on my jeep end of March.... If weight is a concern you might want to look at the 37" Goodyear MTR's w Kevlar that's the route I went.... Wanted to keep the weight down

sea bass

Heavy beadlocks with 37’s are gonna be tough on a d30 if you plan on wheeling. You'll have to replace the beadlocks when you go to 60’s like someone already stated. You'll have to drop a 1000-1500 to beef up that d30 axle (gears, gussets, truss, shafts). I'd put that towards a used rubicon axle to get you by on 37’s if you plan to wheel. You'll still need to reinforce it bug you'll be able run a 5.13 if you wish. Just something to think about...

Christian13

I'm going the teraflex crd60 route front and rear. They are standard width and use the same stud pattern

TheDirtman

What a waste of money to regain factory bolt spacing. Unit bearings and semi float are a poor way to go if dropping that kind of money on axles.

Invest2m4

Couldn't agree more with Dirtman. There is literally no reason to ditch the stock rear unless you are going full float. Spend $10k for the Ultimate Dana's, which are legit D60s front and rear.

Btw, how does one get 5x5 bolt spacing on a front D60?? Didn't know that was possible.

Christian13

Unfortunately I live in Australia. The cost of things here is very different to the US.
We don't have an abundance of junk yard axles that we can just pick up for next to nothing. The cost of curry or dynatrac is excessively more and then would require modifying to suit right hand drive (teraflex offer right hand drive off the shelf) and the cost to fully beaf up and build 44s with the lot and drive shafts comes in not much less than the tera 60s. The tera 60s are a complete bolt in unit with upgraded brakes, heavy duty steering, provide a housing that is far stronger than any beafed up 44, much stronger knuckles, a much improved different pumpkin over the 44 and the ability to properly run 5.38 ratios.
If you can advise me on a better solution then I am always happy to take good advice however your comment was not helpful or productive but just negative and insulting.
Again I'm always open to advice and suggestions. I have not yet bought these and am still doing my research.

Rob 12B1P

Ive got ATX slabs. They are pretty good so far. I know several guys that run Raceline Monsters and several that run Trailreadys. All good wheels as far as Ive seen.

TheDirtman

You are better off running a wider axle with more back spacing to take the stress off the ball joints and unit bearings. Of course it would be better to run a front axle with lock out hubs vs a unit bearing like the JK has. Going with a 60 should allow you to run flat top knuckles with arms that would make running left or right hand drive as easy as the location of the track bar bracket. A semi float rear high pinion dana 60 is not that much stronger then a 44 in the R&P and still has issues with bending flanges on loaded up heavy jeeps. From the prices I have seen you are looking at around $12k+ for a set of those axles. There are better alternatives out there with more features but like you said it will have to be set up for right hand drive. Dynatrac custom build its axles to order so a right hand drive should not be an issue. Not sure about solid but I bet there is someone in Australia that builds axles as well.
Good luck with the build.