TheDirtman

Screw 37's and get 42's you will want them anyway. I am sure you can find someone to tell you how driving around on 42's and 3.21 gears is just fine. Just don't use more then 4th gear and only go in a straight line. Don't worry about the clutch, ball joints, and driveshafts because they are just wear items anyway.

bbrown626

Regear
Ideally beefier front axle housing and C's and get it with the new gears and axle shafts installed
stronger axle shafts front and back
trim pinch seam

Baddkarmaracing

My situation is a little different than yours but here's my experience with 37's, but first specs: 2door,3.8,auto,5.13 gears RK 2.5" (really more like 3.5) it sucks! I love the way it looks and the way it works Offroad, but I am constantly worried about breaking something and looking for a way off an obstacle if I were to break it, I have an artec armor kit for it but haven't got around to install it yet, I have also wheeled it pretty hard (nowhere near invest2m4 hard though) and not had any issues, hell I wheel with a guy that has broken multiple rcv shafts on a 4cyl tj so I'm not easy on it but it still scares the shit out of me and keeps me from making some of the obstacles I should be able to do. And with that said I am probably going to grenade my d30 this weekend on the super easy trails we are going to

sea bass

I think you got the right idea. I personally wouldn't mess with a front locker if you think you will upgrade your axle at some point. Throw one in the back and call it good if you think you need it. Gussets are easy - sleeves or truss is a bit of work. If you truss it - i wouldn't sleeve it.

Monte417

Ok I gotta know more info on the poor sob

Da20captain

I don't think anyone is really trying to tell someone what they want to hear. I think what they are saying is yes it may work for. While but don't be surprised if you experience some damage alone the way and be prepared for some gears or whatever. I am not hardcore as some but I am not into the competition cuts and bodies that looked like chewed up bubble gum. I like to have a good time and drive it home. I had a TJ for 13 years D35 (Super35) and a D30 with 4.88's and 37's for 10 of the 13 years and had a blast. Never an issue with the 30. I did go thru a couple ring gears in the 35 but it's to be expected down the line. For $15 more a tire for something I would get in the long run anyway I would just do it and replace shit as I needed. Most of us began the Jeep addiction with a cheap lift and tires too big to allow the transmission to be most effective. I would not waste a dime on a D30 sleeving and gussets. A D30 anyway you look at it really ain't worth a bucket of piss in the first place. I recall back in the day when you had to have a D44 and then it was an 8.8 and then a D60 (RJ's were the shit and now I hear people say those suck) and then a 14 bolt and now D70's or 80's. WTF! Put whatever tires you want on there and drive it until it breaks, if it breaks and then upgrade. Just drive it like you want to make it home. Don't be a pussy while wheeling, have fun but don't be surprised if along the way you get some damage that requires remedie$. Do the tires and get some gears. I assume Marine in NC you are at Lejeune? There is a guy in Conway SC that does ring and pinion swaps pretty cheap. Or maybe someone just as cheap closer. There is a guy on here with a Hemi D44's, 5.13's and Toyo 38's that runs the piss out of his. Sorry I am raggin' today and no disrespect to anyone. All the aftermarket manufacturers I would imagine respond more to demand (of structurally stronger and better hit) than that of requirement.

jgarz05

Lol I like you! Wheel it till it breaks! Dana 35 and 37s bolt move but looks like you proved some people it's possible! Personally if you know how to wheel you should just be crawling over everything not just being light on the peddle but knowing when and how much power is needed!

Personally I would keep stock axles shafts in the d30. Easier to swap a shaft then r&p.

DKJEEP

I got new tires today and as bad as I wanted the 37's I went with 35's. In a M/T the weight of the tire is already astronomical and I have heard of some mild balancing issues when you start to get into this size range. Combine that with the D30 front axle and this is my daily I just couldn't get my head around dealing with the 37's. They would have looked amazing but just not practical for my usage.

DJ1

You're pretty much in the same boat I'm in with the Sahara. I'm running 35's would like to go 37 but I don't see that happening until at least the front axle gets changed out.

In the meantime, gusset your C's, slap in some Teraflex HD ball joints, and put in some Nitro sleeves (or you can go the weld-in sleeve route which btw I happen to have a set of the Teraflex versions laying around if you're interested). Throw an ARB cover or Rancho diff skid on it and you'll be fine especially since you're not doing any rock crawling. Beef up your tie-rod and trackbar at the very least if you haven't done so already.

I wouldn't bother with a front locker for the D30. Most people I know hardly ever engage the front locker unless they're wheeling in heavy snow.

Having said that, I have thought about throwing in an LSD for the front. I just have to really ask myself how realistic it will be that I change the front axle out in a couple of years. Plus I still need to regear as I'm currently on 3.73's which I'm really starting to hate with the 35's so it's probably smarter to do the regear, locker/LSD, with a stronger front axle all at the same time.

jtphoto JK

After 7 years I finally swapped out the D30 for a D44J8 .. For me it was cheaper then rebuilding the D30 with gears and locker, etc.

The new D44J8 housing cost about the same as it would cost me to have the D30 housing trussed and gusseted. All the other new parts were on par for both diffs.