Monte417

^This. With that tire size I bet your tire hits the frame when you turn causing the esp to go off. Check your frame in your wheel well for missing paint. You need like 1.5" of backspacing or less on a stock width axle with those tires to be able to turn full lock without hitting the frame. Hell you even said the esp goes when you turn. Also someone mentioned programming the correct tire size. In an auto this is important as well as putting in the correct gear ratio. If I were you I would at least drop down to 37s unless you full like picking up a set of 1 tons

larry0071

Yea, the post above may be onto something. I run an 18"x9" with 0" offset, so the flange face is at 4.5" backspace. I also run a 1.5" spacer that pushes that to 3" backspace. With a 37"x13.5" my frame is highly polished after any off-road adventures from the tires scrubbing at it. I wonder with that 38"x14.5" if your hitting the frame on the street?

Also, I noted that when I did the 3.5" suspension and 1.25 body lift (4.75" total) plus moved from 32" to 37" tires, suddenly I could not drive normal posted speeds on my rural winding roads without the stability system going nuts on every turn, and much more so on a turn where you are going down hill.

My road speed has been turned way down. I blame it on the yaw/roll accelerometers being moved so far up from the road surface that they are reading body roll and suspension flex way outside of normal (stock) parameters. My sneaking suspicion is that the higher you move the body/sensors up, the more exaggerated the accelerometer data inputs will be and the slower/smoother you have to drive.

I accept it as part of driving a pretty damn large/high Jeep. I'm cool with it, and I'm not in a race at 45 years old. Besides, I have a Terminator Cobra that loves going fast.

fattypros

Thanks for the replies and information.

I have an AEV pro cal and measured my tires both times and entered their actual diameter. The super swampers were actual 36s and the good years are 37s. My gear ratio (5.13s) is entered as well.

As far as rub, at full lock I definitely rub, these tires are wider. I never had the traction control activate before until yesterday. These tires are definitely wider.

My alignment is ok, I switched to Reid Racing steering knuckles when it was discovered that my stock knuckles that were drilled out for my lift had too much play. Some washers had to be added due to the Teraflex drag link flip kit bolt being longer and that tightened the steering considerably.

I think I would either need spacers or go back to a narrower tire. With my success I had on the narrow super swampers, I'm leaning more towards that. I have heard too many bad things about wheel spacer issues.

The only concern is lack of funds for a new set of rubber, but I'd probably throw it on credit than damage something else.

For the moment I'm taking it easy on the skinny pedal and limiting my turns.

I still haven't looked up the weight difference but I know it is substantial since I never had any problems rolling off the brake or maintaining speed on the narrower tires.

I don't want to damage this brand new transmission or get in an accident due to traction control suddenly activating.

Thanks again for all the input guys. I guess now I need to find another narrow 37 on island. Any recommendations?

nthinuf

Might be easier for you to give us a list of what you can get there, and then ask for suggestions between those few.

But I like my Cooper STT Pro's. (Looking at the specs, there is only a .3" difference in overall width between the 37x12.50 and the 37x13.50, so either should be quite a bit narrower than your 38's.)

karls10jk

37*13.5" on the left and 37*12.5" on the right.......since we're speaking of the tire.

jtphoto JK

I have my suspension tuned In pretty good and I have no problem running posted speed limits on twisty back highways and hairpin turns. Once the proper tire size was programmed in there has never been an issue with traction control while cornering at speed.

4" lift, 1.25" TF body lift, 37x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers, 17x9 PC wheels with 4.75" BS.

fattypros

Well the only thing my navy exchange carries is the MTRs, but the 37s are only 12.5 inches wide, same width as my old swampers. I like the tread, cutting out 1 inch in diameter and 2 inches in width might put me back on the path of success.

It's hard to get a big selection on island.

The off road shop I use asked me to come over and try different tires that they have in stock to see if it replicates the issue so I will have more to follow.

Thanks for the advice so far.

Phantasm

No one has mentioned the big brake kit you added... Maybe it's not fully releasing the disc? Ebrake cable to tight? That would cause the extra drag and more effort on the skinny and could also simulate a skid if it were locking the wheel up or making the speed sensors see too much speed difference from outside wheel to inside, especially since you said it seems to happen on turns? Just trying to think outside the obvious drivetrain stuff.

fattypros

Hey guys, sorry, was out to sea.

I took it to the shop that does my work. They hooked up the reader and showed left rear speed sensor fault.

I drove to the dealership, forked over 40 bucks, an 8mm socket and 5 minutes later, I retest. Issue is gone.

So freaking simple.

I'm still going to go back to 37x12.5s because my buddy is going to by the slightly used 38s and trade me his Rubi rock steps and I will come out even on them.

I appreciate all the feedback and suggestions. Happy wheeling!