4" Long arm fit 40's?
#1
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4" Long arm fit 40's?
I've been trying to search around and see what everyone is running with 40's and everyone seems to be all over the place as far as what they are running. im looking for a good kit that will give me good articulation and be able to fit 40's while keeping a LCG. my main choice is the Teraflex 4" Long Arm LCG kit. Help me out if you can. i would like some feedback from you all, seeing as how im younger i know you all know a lot more than i do
TIA
TIA
#2
JK Junkie
Well, you're really not asking the right questions. Lift height doesn't matter for the most part. It's more about how much metal you need to cut. You don't want to lose very much uptravel (then you are losing "articulation").
A long arm kit really isn't going to help anything unless you plan on going to 14" of travel or greater.
I assume you are using full width axles? The frame gets in the way of the tires...
You're asking some very basic questions for project that is very complex. Going past 37s on a JK is a lot of work.
A long arm kit really isn't going to help anything unless you plan on going to 14" of travel or greater.
I assume you are using full width axles? The frame gets in the way of the tires...
You're asking some very basic questions for project that is very complex. Going past 37s on a JK is a lot of work.
#3
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Well, you're really not asking the right questions. Lift height doesn't matter for the most part. It's more about how much metal you need to cut. You don't want to lose very much uptravel (then you are losing "articulation").
A long arm kit really isn't going to help anything unless you plan on going to 14" of travel or greater.
I assume you are using full width axles? The frame gets in the way of the tires...
You're asking some very basic questions for project that is very complex. Going past 37s on a JK is a lot of work.
A long arm kit really isn't going to help anything unless you plan on going to 14" of travel or greater.
I assume you are using full width axles? The frame gets in the way of the tires...
You're asking some very basic questions for project that is very complex. Going past 37s on a JK is a lot of work.
#4
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I've been trying to search around and see what everyone is running with 40's and everyone seems to be all over the place as far as what they are running. im looking for a good kit that will give me good articulation and be able to fit 40's while keeping a LCG. my main choice is the Teraflex 4" Long Arm LCG kit. Help me out if you can. i would like some feedback from you all, seeing as how im younger i know you all know a lot more than i do
TIA
TIA
If you have any questions, feel free to call us.
Joe
#5
JK Junkie
With the axles, you'll want wider than stock and a full float rear. How wide depends on wheel backspace and your desire to avoid clearance issues. I'd go 70" wms to wms or greater.
At the very least, you'll want to run flat fenders. If you can fab your own or use something like the metalcloak overline fenders, you can gain more uptravel/total travel as you will need less bump stop.
No need to run more than 4" of lift. Again, I think a long-arm is not really going to make a difference unless you are going to long travel coilovers. The JKs are a mid-arm stock (not like the TJ short-arm). If you're going to do the work of a long arm, you're better to build your own suspension and get exactly what you want. Just remember that lift height has virtually no impact on travel.
In terms of travel, the metalcloak springs have the most travel (measured as compressed to free length). You can get nearly 14" out of the 3.5" springs. They ride sweet as well.
#6
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Sounds like you're ready to do the work - that is the right first step. With the axles, you'll want wider than stock and a full float rear. How wide depends on wheel backspace and your desire to avoid clearance issues. I'd go 70" wms to wms or greater. At the very least, you'll want to run flat fenders. If you can fab your own or use something like the metalcloak overline fenders, you can gain more uptravel/total travel as you will need less bump stop. No need to run more than 4" of lift. Again, I think a long-arm is not really going to make a difference unless you are going to long travel coilovers. The JKs are a mid-arm stock (not like the TJ short-arm). If you're going to do the work of a long arm, you're better to build your own suspension and get exactly what you want. Just remember that lift height has virtually no impact on travel. In terms of travel, the metalcloak springs have the most travel (measured as compressed to free length). You can get nearly 14" out of the 3.5" springs. They ride sweet as well.
#7
JK Junkie
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#8
Long arms on JKs start to pay off at around 3.5" lift. Much more stable, and basically eliminate axle steer. Will allow a lot more wheel travel, so your shock options go up, too. You can get close with a standard length arm by using front drop brackets, but nothing tops a quality long arm once you get past 3". With other changes you can even run a LCG setup long arm at 3".
#9
JK Jedi
Skip the "kits" and go full custom long arms. Look up Ringer, Mertz, vfireman39, cj that went jk, co4low, abendex. These builds are all worth looking at as far as custom builds. Lots of work but come the rewards just realize that going this route will cost a bunch and will make the jeep nearly unsellable without a huge loss.
I am at about 3.5" of lift with 40's on a double triangulated set up.
I am at about 3.5" of lift with 40's on a double triangulated set up.
Last edited by TheDirtman; 09-30-2014 at 07:47 AM.
#10
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For a LCG build check the 3.5" MetalCloak Game Changer out if you're planning to wheel it. You can run 40's with it and flat fenders. Plus you get a lot of flex. It's not a long arm though.
If you go custom I'd listen to Dirtman above. He knows his stuff well.
If you go custom I'd listen to Dirtman above. He knows his stuff well.