AEV vs. RK 2.5 - RK takes over when?
10-26-2014, 08:36 PM
#11
JK Super Freak
^^^This. Type of wheeling (location), how often, size tires, future plans?
Don't get caught up in brand name and advice like "get it because I have it and it's the best" from someone who has never owned anything else.
I recommend putting together quality components and not getting a kit.
Don't get caught up in brand name and advice like "get it because I have it and it's the best" from someone who has never owned anything else.
I recommend putting together quality components and not getting a kit.
10-27-2014, 07:53 AM
#12
JK Newbie
Join Date: May 2014
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In my opinion, RK's high-end lifts take over in the form of high-articulation weight bias from side to side. I find there are so few binding points on my X-Factor setup that I nearly never use the front and rear diff locks. If I have one spinning wheel, which is almost never, BLD is usually strong enough to take care of wheel slippage immediately. I find when I have even traction I can go slower, be gentler on drivetrain components, and offer a more comfortable and capable ride.
On the other side of the coin, if I lived in an environment with a lot of water and road salt (I do) I still think a clevite joint is king. I can't help but wonder where my RK joints will be after a few winters.
Steve
On the other side of the coin, if I lived in an environment with a lot of water and road salt (I do) I still think a clevite joint is king. I can't help but wonder where my RK joints will be after a few winters.
Steve
10-27-2014, 02:10 PM
#13
Former Vendor
2014 JKU Sport - SOCAL area first off.
Yes, another suspension kit question from a noob. I've been doing homework for a couple months now and thought I had it narrowed down to the RK 2.5 Flex or Max Travel Kit. So I come across a guy a few blocks away randomly, chase him down, we talk, and takes me for a ride, lets me drive his 2.5 AEV equipped JKU on 35's. I'm looking for this same set up, will do 35's on which 2.5 lift I choose, so hey I'm impressed. So it rode great, he swore by it, said it was his DD, just like mine pretty much is as well. He admitted it is not for rock crawling or gnarly stuff, more trail and expedition, and I'm in the same boat as well I suppose. So the question is, I believe the RK kit to be more stout and beatable out there on rougher trails/rocks etc. over the AEV. Am I definitely correct? Anyone else have both before? At what point does the RK kit take over, and the AEV hinder one so to speak, where I would be like why did I not go with the RK kit and bang my head?
To add to the new confusion, I see tons of positive info and mentions of the Synergy/Poly kits? Don't know if I wan to throw that into my consideration though. Why would I want this brand/kit over my original considerations?
Thanks for shedding some light guru's!
Yes, another suspension kit question from a noob. I've been doing homework for a couple months now and thought I had it narrowed down to the RK 2.5 Flex or Max Travel Kit. So I come across a guy a few blocks away randomly, chase him down, we talk, and takes me for a ride, lets me drive his 2.5 AEV equipped JKU on 35's. I'm looking for this same set up, will do 35's on which 2.5 lift I choose, so hey I'm impressed. So it rode great, he swore by it, said it was his DD, just like mine pretty much is as well. He admitted it is not for rock crawling or gnarly stuff, more trail and expedition, and I'm in the same boat as well I suppose. So the question is, I believe the RK kit to be more stout and beatable out there on rougher trails/rocks etc. over the AEV. Am I definitely correct? Anyone else have both before? At what point does the RK kit take over, and the AEV hinder one so to speak, where I would be like why did I not go with the RK kit and bang my head?
To add to the new confusion, I see tons of positive info and mentions of the Synergy/Poly kits? Don't know if I wan to throw that into my consideration though. Why would I want this brand/kit over my original considerations?
Thanks for shedding some light guru's!
With the type of terrain you have all around you we can take it that you will probably be doing a decent amount of rocks! At that point and time you will still have a decent amount of bind in your suspension if still using factory control arms. Our arm construction will allow for much more fluid suspension movement. Also a drop bracket can add more leverage to the factory bracket which paired with the limited misalignment of the factory arms can fatigue brackets. Not to mention less ground clearance with relocation brackets. If you have any specific questions about our kits don't hesitate to ask!
RK
10-27-2014, 06:00 PM
#14
Steve, FWIW I just pulled my rear LCAs to replace the bushings after 18k miles and 2 winters with a shit ton of mag chlo here in CO. Since I was pulling them anyway, I upgraded to RK's new style, greasable joints figuring the old ones needed rebuilding after a lot of wheeling, etc anyway. The old joints were still tight/perfect.
10-28-2014, 03:08 PM
#15
Former Vendor
In my opinion, RK's high-end lifts take over in the form of high-articulation weight bias from side to side. I find there are so few binding points on my X-Factor setup that I nearly never use the front and rear diff locks. If I have one spinning wheel, which is almost never, BLD is usually strong enough to take care of wheel slippage immediately. I find when I have even traction I can go slower, be gentler on drivetrain components, and offer a more comfortable and capable ride.
On the other side of the coin, if I lived in an environment with a lot of water and road salt (I do) I still think a clevite joint is king. I can't help but wonder where my RK joints will be after a few winters.
Steve
On the other side of the coin, if I lived in an environment with a lot of water and road salt (I do) I still think a clevite joint is king. I can't help but wonder where my RK joints will be after a few winters.
Steve
RK
10-28-2014, 05:21 PM
#16
JK Enthusiast
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Thank you everyone for your contributions! Leaning back to the RK, but some people brought up some points I did not consider. Being this is SoCal I don't have to worry about harsh winters per say, but will the RK have normal squeaking and clanking noises coming from the joints anyway? Is it part of the deal, or are they quiet? Which now leads me to wonder would a Metal Cloak kit/ joint with the Duroflex have any of these noise issues or no due to design? Yup it never ends with me and my thinking. 
Last edited by genrec; 10-28-2014 at 06:11 PM.
10-28-2014, 05:47 PM
#17
JK Jedi
The current rock krawler joint should not be squeaky. They use a bearing race and have a grease zert. It is ball and socket design much like a johnny joint.
10-28-2014, 07:41 PM
#18
JK Freak
A guy in one of our local clubs has an AEV 2.5 kit in his JKU and swears by it. He regularly beats on it in Colorado and Moab several times a year, and hasn't had any issues with it. The control arm brackets, if you choose to add them, might drag over stuff on harder trails, but otherwise it's a great kit.
I'd all but ruled out AEV for my lift in favor of Teraflex, but talking/wheeling with him has me reconsidering AEV.
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I'd all but ruled out AEV for my lift in favor of Teraflex, but talking/wheeling with him has me reconsidering AEV.
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10-28-2014, 09:38 PM
#19
JK Super Freak
I am running the RK 2.5 stock mod with the newer triple rate springs and it rides and flexs great. I actually run the drop brackets from the AEV kit and I think its a great combo, I had issues with my TF front lowers and didnt want to spend another 3-400 bucks on new arms and havent regreted the brackets at all. They do hang low but I haven't had an issue and it doesnt sound like you plan on doing rock crawling anyway. whatever you choose, I think youll be happy.
Last edited by Bosox5; 10-28-2014 at 09:41 PM.
10-29-2014, 07:43 AM
#20
Former Vendor
Thank you everyone for your contributions! Leaning back to the RK, but some people brought up some points I did not consider. Being this is SoCal I don't have to worry about harsh winters per say, but will the RK have normal squeaking and clanking noises coming from the joints anyway? Is it part of the deal, or are they quiet? Which now leads me to wonder would a Metal Cloak kit/ joint with the Duroflex have any of these noise issues or no due to design? Yup it never ends with me and my thinking.
Thanks Dirtman! To the OP, As Dirtman stated you will get no noise out of our joints... The Pro series joints are even leaps and bounds better then any other generation of joints, more misalignment, larger raceways, more surface area on the spherical ball, more vibration isolation, and they have a grease fitting. You should be very happy with them.
RK