anyone do a 3.8 stroker kit?
10-12-2012, 06:35 AM
#41
JK Super Freak
The black art of turbo sizing...
...is really just all about compressor mapping and matching that to your needs. (CIDx0.5xRPMxVE... etc.) There are some great books by SA Design as well as HP Books. I personally think the actual powe-rband of these is so low, you would be wasting money unless you could were going to bolt on some junkyard pieces from an import.
Personally, I just want the instant throttle response of a POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT blower, like a twin screw compressor. THen no matter what RPM your at, when you hit the loud pedal you are getting WHAT YOU PAID FOR. Why pay for a 8PSI kit (50% more power) when it is only MAKING 8PSI at 5000RPM? With a twin screw, the boost is already there, all you gotta do is open up the throttle blade.
Personally, I just want the instant throttle response of a POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT blower, like a twin screw compressor. THen no matter what RPM your at, when you hit the loud pedal you are getting WHAT YOU PAID FOR. Why pay for a 8PSI kit (50% more power) when it is only MAKING 8PSI at 5000RPM? With a twin screw, the boost is already there, all you gotta do is open up the throttle blade.
10-12-2012, 06:39 AM
#42
JK Super Freak
dueces- where are you in the country?!?
10-12-2012, 07:00 PM
#43
For Colorado Springs (approx. elevation 6000 feet), I'm assuming you have a 2011 or earlier = 202 HP for the 3.8 L:
(6000 x 0.03 x 202hp)/1000 = 36hp loss
Now you are running around 166 HP...
33
Last edited by 33 williys 77; 10-12-2012 at 07:02 PM.
10-13-2012, 06:45 AM
#44
JK Super Freak
Originally Posted by 33 williys 77
HP Loss = (elevation x 0.03 x horsepower @ sea level)/1000
For Colorado Springs (approx. elevation 6000 feet), I'm assuming you have a 2011 or earlier = 202 HP for the 3.8 L:
(6000 x 0.03 x 202hp)/1000 = 36hp loss
Now you are running around 166 HP...
33
10-13-2012, 06:55 AM
#45
JK Super Freak
Originally Posted by 33 williys 77
HP Loss = (elevation x 0.03 x horsepower @ sea level)/1000
For Colorado Springs (approx. elevation 6000 feet), I'm assuming you have a 2011 or earlier = 202 HP for the 3.8 L:
(6000 x 0.03 x 202hp)/1000 = 36hp loss
Now you are running around 166 HP...
33
The EASY part is adding boost. The hard part is adding boost thats there WHEN YOU NEED IT... not where it showed up on a dyno. Go twin screw for a non-race JK, or a well designed turbo.
10-13-2012, 09:34 AM
#47
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Originally Posted by NebraskaUnlimited
Forgive my stupid question, but what is an example of a twin-screw
These two are roots type and are less efficient then the newer twin screw where two machined helices compress the air better and generate less heat
New style twin screw supercharger, although they both do the same thing the twin screw is new technology
10-13-2012, 10:41 AM
#48
JK Super Freak
Originally Posted by efan450
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=377682"/>
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=377681"/>
These two are roots type and are less efficient then the newer twin screw where two machined helices compress the air better and generate less heat
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=377683"/>
New style twin screw supercharger, although they both do the same thing the twin screw is new technology
Instant boost... from about 1,500 rpm all the way to redline.
10-16-2012, 07:53 PM
#49
10-16-2012, 08:11 PM
#50
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That good info. My concern was the same when I contacted the only company I know of offering the Stroker Kit short block, requested dyno results. No response? That tells me lots, plus I was thinking that you can add cubes but with no mods to the heads would it still be clogging on the exhaust stroke?