DJ1

Yeah, I would just notch the truss where it hits. Maybe give yourself an extra 1/4" or so on both sides of the control arm to give you a little side-to-side buffer. I can't see notching it affecting the rigidity of the truss much if at all.



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TeraFlex

Looks like you better contact Artec on this one. Did you check the up travel clearance also with that truss?

Biginboca

In those pics it looks like the area of the truss under that control arm mount isn't sitting on the axle tube. Looks like it was welded not welded on right, like it's not fully seated onto the tube. Maybe it's the pic?

larry0071

I didn't want to say it, but the truss installation looks like a crap job. I just welded in my 3rd Artec full armor truss kit this weekend.... mine does not look similar to that.

larry0071

There is such a huge amount of jack-assery going on in this one photo that I can only describe it with a photo response showing how totally screwed up it is. And note: If the thing were installed correctly, it wouldn't be all jacked up into the control arm. That is not where it is supposed be living. Take a look at the photo I am attaching, you'll see that the installer screwed you, not Artec.

larry0071

I bet I can guess what he did. He never ground the top horizontal plate to plate to fit down between the spring base and the center casting. All of the stuff Artec sends you is close, but it all is a bit long on purpose to allow for manufacturing variances. The installer needs to trim the ends of the vertical (thin pieces) as required, then work the (thick) top plate ends until you can get it all squared and tight to the axle. I also trim some on the bottom of the gussets so that the upper points are not sticking up above the ball joint flat where the ball joint tool needs to be. All of that is done before the hot mettle glue gun comes out.

I spent around 15 hours doing one this weekend, and that is with the axle out of the Jeep on my axle stand. But trust me, the ones I've done do not look like that. I feel bad for you bud.

DJ1

I don't know how to weld but I thought those welds looked sketch lol.....definitely doesn't look like the welds on my aluminum Genright pieces.

Good luck to the OP. What a cluster-fawk....


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larry0071

Honestly... and you will not like this....

I would jerk that axle back out, it only takes an hour or 2 to get it out.... and I would fire up the torch and burn that mess off of the axle and get a new Artec truss and start over.

If you did this yourself, and you want to try again, I think you can see what is wrong and you can do much better. If someone else did this, they should see what is wrong and do much better.

If the entire thing (The Truss) were shoved down tight onto the axle, it would be about a 1/2" lower than what you have. The issue here is not Artec, there is no reason to call them. The issue is that the installation, be it you yourself or a paid shop, did not work the truss fitment prior to gluing it all together.

This is the one I helped (I drank beer and provided grinder/paint removal support) my buddy Adam install on his Dana 30. He used my shop to weld it. And another thing that Adam suggested is that the vertical supports are all numbered and are not all the same. There are a couple that are close enough that you can incorrectly place them at the wrong spot. Make sure you pay attention to the instructions and the numbers burned into the pieces.

Also note that we modified the Artec track bar bracket to allow room for his JKS Quicker Disconnects. The bracket as you get it is too close to the pin to allow installation and removal. We moved that left side wall of the bracket about a half inch away from the disconnect, now you can drive a Mack truck through that space.

Rebar-7

This ^^^^ sadly enough I concur with Larry0071 take that thing off and start over do it right. Good luck man...

Biginboca

FYI here's what my Artec truss looks like in that area. Not the best pic but as you can see the truss sits flush on the axle.