Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Ball joints: Any aftermarket solutions yet? Any good? Bad?

Old 02-11-2009, 03:59 PM
  #11  
JK Newbie
 
yj_guy_007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I've already had to replace my left ball joints, about $600 parts and labor with OEM equipment. Now my right side is going out, and so far no luck on anything aftermarket
Old 02-11-2009, 04:06 PM
  #12  
JK Super Freak
 
chuck45's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by yj_guy_007
I've already had to replace my left ball joints, about $600 parts and labor with OEM equipment. Now my right side is going out, and so far no luck on anything aftermarket
I think this is something that we are going to have to learn to do ourselves. 600.00 is just too damn much money - for only one ball joint. I just swapped axle shafts, which was no big deal, which gives easy access to the ball joints.

I've got 35's and ORE C gussets. About 5,000 of my miles have been off road and my ball joints are tight. I don't know if the gussets are helping; but they may.
Old 02-11-2009, 04:22 PM
  #13  
JK Super Freak
 
nangulator's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: downingtown, PA
Posts: 1,103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by chuck45
I think this is something that we are going to have to learn to do ourselves. 600.00 is just too damn much money - for only one ball joint. I just swapped axle shafts, which was no big deal, which gives easy access to the ball joints.

I've got 35's and ORE C gussets. About 5,000 of my miles have been off road and my ball joints are tight. I don't know if the gussets are helping; but they may.
I am getting the ORE c gusset as a v-day present, this is the problem causing everyones BJs to wear out, not a poordesign on chryslers part. They just can't handle the added stress of 35s and the C opens up and wastes the balljoint in the procsess
Old 02-11-2009, 04:28 PM
  #14  
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
 
MJS_Jeep_888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AT LARGE somewhere in CT
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by nangulator
I am getting the ORE c gusset as a v-day present, this is the problem causing everyones BJs to wear out, not a poordesign on chryslers part. They just can't handle the added stress of 35s and the C opens up and wastes the balljoint in the procsess
The last thing ANY of us want is for our BJs to wear out.
Old 02-11-2009, 07:16 PM
  #15  
JK Super Freak
 
MOWrangler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MJS_Jeep_888
The last thing ANY of us want is for our BJs to wear out.
Heck... I've been married 8 years. My BJ wore out about 7 years, 11 months ago.
Old 02-11-2009, 07:33 PM
  #16  
JK Enthusiast
 
kafka1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

A little viagra will fix you right up.
Old 02-11-2009, 09:57 PM
  #17  
JK Super Freak
 
chuck45's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by nangulator
I am getting the ORE c gusset as a v-day present, this is the problem causing everyones BJs to wear out, not a poordesign on chryslers part. They just can't handle the added stress of 35s and the C opens up and wastes the balljoint in the procsess
It's hard to say right now that that is the cause. But if those of us with 35's and gussets don't have ball joint problems and those with 35's and no gusets do it will become conventional wisdom I guess.

I still wish the damn things were greasable. On a street only vehicle I know the greaseless ball joints and ujoints do ok. But for our use we need to be able to flush them out with fresh grease after running trails.
Old 02-11-2009, 11:00 PM
  #18  
JK Jedi
 
Hellbound13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,470
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by chuck45
It's hard to say right now that that is the cause. But if those of us with 35's and gussets don't have ball joint problems and those with 35's and no gusets do it will become conventional wisdom I guess.

I still wish the damn things were greasable. On a street only vehicle I know the greaseless ball joints and ujoints do ok. But for our use we need to be able to flush them out with fresh grease after running trails.
I have only been off road once in 15,000 miles and it was MILD off roading and all my ball joints were bad and needed to be replaced at 12,000 miles. Same thing with the tie rod. I am also running stock sizes tires and no lift. Why Jeep did not make the suspension greaseable is beyond me and a HUGE oversight.
Old 02-12-2009, 02:56 AM
  #19  
JK Jedi
 
RedneckJeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 7,213
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by km2jk
Easy man. At least someone is trying. Anyone know if it is possible to add a grease zerk to a normally sealed ball joint?
I think you may have misunderstood my post. I was merely saying that until someone makes a ball joint with a grease fitting, it will be worthless. Even if it's Moog. To answer your question, yes, I have installed fittings in MANY a ball joint that was factory sealed. Zerk fittings are self tapping. As for worrying about metal shavings, that's easy to compensate for. Simple fill the flutes of the drill bit with wheel bearing grease. That will solve the problem of metal shavings escaping. It may be necessare to tap the ball joints if the metal caps are really thick, but that's not hard to do, either. Just have an appropriate size tap on hand and be prepared just in case. I haven't added fittings to mine yet, but I plan to soon. If I get around to it before any of yall, I'll do a write up on it.
Old 02-12-2009, 03:16 AM
  #20  
JK Jedi
 
RedneckJeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 7,213
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by chuck45
It's hard to say right now that that is the cause. But if those of us with 35's and gussets don't have ball joint problems and those with 35's and no gusets do it will become conventional wisdom I guess.

I still wish the damn things were greasable. On a street only vehicle I know the greaseless ball joints and ujoints do ok. But for our use we need to be able to flush them out with fresh grease after running trails.
I tend to agree. Chevrolet had a massive campaign in the late eighties and early ninties to eliminate all non-servicable ball joints in the then new body style Chevrolet and GMC trucks. In fact, if you have a 1988- about 1993 C or K truck, your ball joints are still covered by a life long TSB and campaign. You can go in and get them replaced for free. No mileage or age limitation. The TSB was about "moisture contaminated ball joints". What happens is moisture contamination. Since the ball joints don't have grease fittings, there's no way to pump new grease in and the old contaminated grease out. So the grease that's contaminated with moisture causes the ball joint to rust. The rust acts as an abrasive (because that's what it is) and very quickly destroys the ball joint. If they had grease fittings, the problem would be solved. At least for those of us who would actually USE the grease fittings.

Quick Reply: Ball joints: Any aftermarket solutions yet? Any good? Bad?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:02 AM.