Bent trac bar bracket - fixed it - now jeep locking up and hesitant
#1
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Bent trac bar bracket - fixed it - now jeep locking up and hesitant
Wife crashed Jeep Wrangler jku rubicon with 3" lift at 3am. It was a bad storm, 6" of snow on the highway(I live in northern Ontario Canada, it's not uncommon to get 6" in a matter of a few hours). She was in 4H, going too fast and did a 180, eventually hitting the curb with the rear driver side tire. She hit hard enough to bend the track bar bracket and relocation bracket. The relocation bracket mounts the stock trac bar 2-2.5" higher than stock causing more leverage making it way easier to bend.
I got it home on tow truck and as much as I tried I couldn't get the original bracket back straight, so I put the relocation bracket straight, centered the axel w/ ratchet straps and welded the relocation bracket straight.
My plan was just temporary as I was going to order an adjustable track bar and new aftermarket axel mount and cut what I did off and weld an aftermarket mount on without the high grab point due to the new track bar being adjustable. But now, waiting for parts to come in jeep is running bad.
Can't turn sharp in 2wd bc axel feel like it's locked.
Jeep feels powerless, like the E brake is stuck on and also slows down fast as soon as I'm not giving it gas.
Almost feels as if I'm driving on soft ground all the time.
Driving in 4H on snow covered side roads, jeep feels like it's in 4low, barely moves. Won't even turn going straight!!
Checked axel Center a week after fix and it's off 1".
Abs- ESP and Traction control lights are on.
Could she hVe bent axel shaft?
If alignment is way out could it cause axel to lock?
U joints are fine.
TS fluid is good.
2nd seal on oil pan leaking enough to leave drops on garage floor but I keep oil level good (2nd from bottom)
I don't have tons of money so I don't wanna spend a fortune at a shop.
I got it home on tow truck and as much as I tried I couldn't get the original bracket back straight, so I put the relocation bracket straight, centered the axel w/ ratchet straps and welded the relocation bracket straight.
My plan was just temporary as I was going to order an adjustable track bar and new aftermarket axel mount and cut what I did off and weld an aftermarket mount on without the high grab point due to the new track bar being adjustable. But now, waiting for parts to come in jeep is running bad.
Can't turn sharp in 2wd bc axel feel like it's locked.
Jeep feels powerless, like the E brake is stuck on and also slows down fast as soon as I'm not giving it gas.
Almost feels as if I'm driving on soft ground all the time.
Driving in 4H on snow covered side roads, jeep feels like it's in 4low, barely moves. Won't even turn going straight!!
Checked axel Center a week after fix and it's off 1".
Abs- ESP and Traction control lights are on.
Could she hVe bent axel shaft?
If alignment is way out could it cause axel to lock?
U joints are fine.
TS fluid is good.
2nd seal on oil pan leaking enough to leave drops on garage floor but I keep oil level good (2nd from bottom)
I don't have tons of money so I don't wanna spend a fortune at a shop.
#2
JK Freak
You most likely have a bent rear axle flange. This will cause the rear rotor to drag and it's probably why your dash lights are on as that one wheel is turning at different speeds. Do you hear a grinding or whining sound when driving?
I bet you that one rear rotor gets really hot, really quick if it's dragging. You can also jack the rear end up & spin the rear tires to see how true they run. With the parking break off & the jeep in neutral you should be able to spin the wheel freely.
You'll know if it's bent as it's obvious. Good luck
I bet you that one rear rotor gets really hot, really quick if it's dragging. You can also jack the rear end up & spin the rear tires to see how true they run. With the parking break off & the jeep in neutral you should be able to spin the wheel freely.
You'll know if it's bent as it's obvious. Good luck
#4
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You most likely have a bent rear axle flange. This will cause the rear rotor to drag and it's probably why your dash lights are on as that one wheel is turning at different speeds. Do you hear a grinding or whining sound when driving?
I bet you that one rear rotor gets really hot, really quick if it's dragging. You can also jack the rear end up & spin the rear tires to see how true they run. With the parking break off & the jeep in neutral you should be able to spin the wheel freely.
You'll know if it's bent as it's obvious. Good luck
I bet you that one rear rotor gets really hot, really quick if it's dragging. You can also jack the rear end up & spin the rear tires to see how true they run. With the parking break off & the jeep in neutral you should be able to spin the wheel freely.
You'll know if it's bent as it's obvious. Good luck
How costly is this?
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Ok so I jacked it up by the hitch, spun the wheel. It wasn't visible but the wheel would kinda pop and grind and get tight at a certain spot. I put something up against the edge of the rim and as I spun the tire, my metal ruler would have a 1/4" to 1/2" gap at the opposite end of where it would be touching the rule. So it's def. out of Wack!!
ALSO, I grabbed the tire with one hand on each side and shook it, and it's clunking back and fourth. It's loose.
Stuck my Hands through the rim and onto the rotor, one hand on each side And it was also moving back and fourth- loose.
Wheel bearing must also be ****ed! Mm
Ok
Just so it wasn't bias, I did the same thing but thing on the opposite rim with the metal rule, and it ran true. Touched all the way around.
ALSO, I grabbed the tire with one hand on each side and shook it, and it's clunking back and fourth. It's loose.
Stuck my Hands through the rim and onto the rotor, one hand on each side And it was also moving back and fourth- loose.
Wheel bearing must also be ****ed! Mm
Ok
Just so it wasn't bias, I did the same thing but thing on the opposite rim with the metal rule, and it ran true. Touched all the way around.
Last edited by Kawasaki18; 01-14-2017 at 08:51 PM.
#7
Super Moderator
Replacement axle shafts are relatively cheap. You can buy factory for $180 or go with a set of "ready to install" axles from Northridge4x4- they were a little higher in price but I don't think they were over $300 and that's as easy as unbolt the old and slip in the new- bolt on and roll.
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Replacement axle shafts are relatively cheap. You can buy factory for $180 or go with a set of "ready to install" axles from Northridge4x4- they were a little higher in price but I don't think they were over $300 and that's as easy as unbolt the old and slip in the new- bolt on and roll.
He is trying to tell me that if one is bent so is the other.
Please confirm,
thank you
#9
JK Enthusiast
I don't think your parts guy is wrong. I'm not by any means qualified to answer this question but this does seem like something I would take to a shop for. For how tight everything fits in there, if you bent or broke more than just the axle flange a new axle would definitely fix a lot of issues with alignment.
You can probably find a used stock JK dana 44 rear axle pretty easily. The only difference is going to be in the gearing.
You can probably find a used stock JK dana 44 rear axle pretty easily. The only difference is going to be in the gearing.
#10
JK Freak
Maybe. It is possible to bend a flange but not the mounting surface. I see bent flanges rather frequently on the trail but none of them have had bent mounting surfaces. However with the bent track bar bracket, maybe it was a hard enough hit to bend the whole axle. Best way to check is to remove the axle shaft and measure the angle of the axle flange mounting surface to the axle tube. They should be at 90 degrees.