Bought 35's and now need help verifying my build
08-02-2015, 06:31 AM
#31
JK Jedi
There are thousands of ways to build the suspension, it comes down to your budget and what level of performance you need. If daily drivability is important it will require more adjustable components to adjust things right. Pairing proper coil length with shock length and bumpstops will allow you to maximize travel but it takes time and effort from the builder to check clearances and proper measurements to size things properly. A forklift or a auto lift helps a lot in determining your clearances and things like axle rotation when one wheel is stuffed and one is drooped will change with the length of shocks you run. It is hard to advise to exact spec's on a forum due to the different sizes of tires and weights of different jeeps. Most people don't run limit straps because they are not easy to bolt on and add cost to a build but they do offer protection to the shocks and driveshafts if properly installed. Its been a while but there was a group in the chicagoland area that had one member with a auto shop that would have install parties. They were on a site called forbiddenjeep.com Not sure if they are still doing it but the guy I knew was Nick Johnson and he wheeled and may even work part time at the cliffs insane terrain park.
Dropping coils 2" on the front them limiting the droop reduces your shocks travel and really doesn't make sense as you defeat the purpose of LT shocks. Taller coils may take up the droop but now you are talking a whole different build from what you set out to do. Don't get sucked into throwing things at a bad choice like the shocks that are too long. In the end you will spend more and be more frustrated as you go through the process.
Decide on what path you really want to do, if the solution is to get shorter shocks, it may be the best for you and you can always sell the shocks since they are nearly new.
What obstacles are you trying to overcome at the badlands? They have such a diverse amount of terrain there it would help to understand what you want to tackle there. Personally at Badlands after tires lockers and proper gearing are your best bet for improving performance there as it is for most places.
Dropping coils 2" on the front them limiting the droop reduces your shocks travel and really doesn't make sense as you defeat the purpose of LT shocks. Taller coils may take up the droop but now you are talking a whole different build from what you set out to do. Don't get sucked into throwing things at a bad choice like the shocks that are too long. In the end you will spend more and be more frustrated as you go through the process.
Decide on what path you really want to do, if the solution is to get shorter shocks, it may be the best for you and you can always sell the shocks since they are nearly new.
What obstacles are you trying to overcome at the badlands? They have such a diverse amount of terrain there it would help to understand what you want to tackle there. Personally at Badlands after tires lockers and proper gearing are your best bet for improving performance there as it is for most places.
08-02-2015, 07:32 AM
#32
Forum Tech Advisor
So in reality is my best option to go 2.5" springs with arms and track bars with current long travel shocks if I don't plan to add Evo Rock Stars and shorter rear shocks? Would that maximize travel the best while having more travel before unseating the coils? I really threw myself for a loop with these long travel shocks and needing rear bump stops! I get that I would still need front/rear sway links, brake lines probably, possibly limit straps, relocate ABS line, coil retainers, and possible exhaust spacer. I do plan to try a 1" bump in the rear to see if that would work with pinch seam and shock compression.
But, like Dirtman said, you'll need to test clearances, etc. when you put everything together. You can use a fork lift, RTI ramp, or other things to check clearances and limits.
I'm thinking you will still need to trim a little of those rear pinch seams at the front edges.
08-02-2015, 07:49 AM
#33
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are thousands of ways to build the suspension, it comes down to your budget and what level of performance you need. If daily drivability is important it will require more adjustable components to adjust things right. Pairing proper coil length with shock length and bumpstops will allow you to maximize travel but it takes time and effort from the builder to check clearances and proper measurements to size things properly. A forklift or a auto lift helps a lot in determining your clearances and things like axle rotation when one wheel is stuffed and one is drooped will change with the length of shocks you run. It is hard to advise to exact spec's on a forum due to the different sizes of tires and weights of different jeeps. Most people don't run limit straps because they are not easy to bolt on and add cost to a build but they do offer protection to the shocks and driveshafts if properly installed. Its been a while but there was a group in the chicagoland area that had one member with a auto shop that would have install parties. They were on a site called forbiddenjeep.com Not sure if they are still doing it but the guy I knew was Nick Johnson and he wheeled and may even work part time at the cliffs insane terrain park.
Dropping coils 2" on the front them limiting the droop reduces your shocks travel and really doesn't make sense as you defeat the purpose of LT shocks. Taller coils may take up the droop but now you are talking a whole different build from what you set out to do. Don't get sucked into throwing things at a bad choice like the shocks that are too long. In the end you will spend more and be more frustrated as you go through the process.
Decide on what path you really want to do, if the solution is to get shorter shocks, it may be the best for you and you can always sell the shocks since they are nearly new.
What obstacles are you trying to overcome at the badlands? They have such a diverse amount of terrain there it would help to understand what you want to tackle there. Personally at Badlands after tires lockers and proper gearing are your best bet for improving performance there as it is for most places.
Dropping coils 2" on the front them limiting the droop reduces your shocks travel and really doesn't make sense as you defeat the purpose of LT shocks. Taller coils may take up the droop but now you are talking a whole different build from what you set out to do. Don't get sucked into throwing things at a bad choice like the shocks that are too long. In the end you will spend more and be more frustrated as you go through the process.
Decide on what path you really want to do, if the solution is to get shorter shocks, it may be the best for you and you can always sell the shocks since they are nearly new.
What obstacles are you trying to overcome at the badlands? They have such a diverse amount of terrain there it would help to understand what you want to tackle there. Personally at Badlands after tires lockers and proper gearing are your best bet for improving performance there as it is for most places.
I would like to regear and add lockers at some point but don't know that I want to do that while running the stock d30. Need to talk to my family friends and see how much they would charge (guess my brother knows the owner of Branik Motorsports).
08-02-2015, 07:57 AM
#34
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2.5" springs from RK or MC are a better idea for those OME LT shocks. If you rig is going to end up a little heavier, then you might look at OME HD springs.
But, like Dirtman said, you'll need to test clearances, etc. when you put everything together. You can use a fork lift, RTI ramp, or other things to check clearances and limits.
I'm thinking you will still need to trim a little of those rear pinch seams at the front edges.
But, like Dirtman said, you'll need to test clearances, etc. when you put everything together. You can use a fork lift, RTI ramp, or other things to check clearances and limits.
I'm thinking you will still need to trim a little of those rear pinch seams at the front edges.
I may have bought the wrong shocks if I need to stuff the rear much further. I think I only have about 1" before the shock is compressed so lowest I could do would be 1" bump correct? Or buy different shocks of course, but I'd like to not have to cut the pinch to be honest. Maybe after these shocks wear out? haha
edit: RK has the rear control arms that push the axle back 1". Would that be a wise idea when the time comes to get the tire away from the pinch seam (if I don't want to cut)?
Last edited by auceny; 08-02-2015 at 08:01 AM.
08-03-2015, 06:26 AM
#35
Forum Tech Advisor
I wouldn't buy rear control arms with such a low lift for the purpose of not trimming a little from the front edge of the rear pinch seams.
You can cut a significant amount off before you get close to the spot welds.
If you want to ask someone from a body/paint shop what they would use to prep, prime, and paint 3"-9" of pinch seam that has been trimmed, I'm sure that you will conclude its not worth spending $600 on rear control arms simply to avoid a little paint and primer.
You can cut a significant amount off before you get close to the spot welds.
If you want to ask someone from a body/paint shop what they would use to prep, prime, and paint 3"-9" of pinch seam that has been trimmed, I'm sure that you will conclude its not worth spending $600 on rear control arms simply to avoid a little paint and primer.
08-03-2015, 06:47 AM
#36
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't buy rear control arms with such a low lift for the purpose of not trimming a little from the front edge of the rear pinch seams. You can cut a significant amount off before you get close to the spot welds. If you want to ask someone from a body/paint shop what they would use to prep, prime, and paint 3"-9" of pinch seam that has been trimmed, I'm sure that you will conclude its not worth spending $600 on rear control arms simply to avoid a little paint and primer.
08-09-2015, 05:49 PM
#38
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hit the trails today and all the upgrades were great and made a huge difference. Rubbed my belly way less. Climbed things I got hung up on before. And so on. Still waiting on my rear sway links and have now decided I most definitely need exhaust spacers and a new driveshaft after the exhaust messed up the stock one today.
What driveshafts are highly recommended up front and how hard to swap? Here's what I think finally did it.
Looks like Northridge has 1310 JE Reel, Coast, and Adams. Not limited to them though. Qtec has Tom Woods.
What driveshafts are highly recommended up front and how hard to swap? Here's what I think finally did it.
Looks like Northridge has 1310 JE Reel, Coast, and Adams. Not limited to them though. Qtec has Tom Woods.
Last edited by auceny; 08-09-2015 at 06:27 PM.
08-10-2015, 05:50 AM
#39
JK Jedi
They the search function as driveshafts have been done to death on the forums. You might just want to find a local driveline shop and have them build one for you. There use to be one over by Midway. I would recommend replacing the yolks to a u-strap style 1310 for ease of maintenance or replacement should you have issues.
