Bought 35's and now need help verifying my build
08-01-2015, 05:51 AM
#21
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Ok so I bought the OME long travel shocks because the compressed lengths look just about perfect. Also got spring retainers front and rear since it looks like I will likely be able to unseat them. Now I'm curious about limiting straps for the front since it looks like it can extend 2" beyond the shock length (unless that isn't a big deal?). What is the best/easiest way to mount them to the front? Guessing I can mount them to the lower shock mount and then drill and tap into the frame? I will need to do some better testing to find the true limits of the rear.
Last edited by auceny; 08-01-2015 at 06:18 AM.
08-01-2015, 06:52 AM
#22
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You'll need extended brakelines with OME LT shocks. You'll also need to reroute the front ABS lines over the knuckle.
You won't need 2" extended rear bumpstops unless you run rear lower shock relocation brackets--like the EVO RockStars. Without the relocation brackets, you want to cycle and measure to determine the needed rear bumpstops.
The OME LT shocks work with OME 2"-3" springs, with rear coil retainers.
With the RK springs, you will for sure need coil retainers. However, you might also want limit straps.
The stock arms are capable of 11.5" travel shocks at that lift height. I usually suggest arms with joints like the Curries if you are needing them anyway to adjust caster or the rear pinion angle.
You won't need 2" extended rear bumpstops unless you run rear lower shock relocation brackets--like the EVO RockStars. Without the relocation brackets, you want to cycle and measure to determine the needed rear bumpstops.
The OME LT shocks work with OME 2"-3" springs, with rear coil retainers.
With the RK springs, you will for sure need coil retainers. However, you might also want limit straps.
The stock arms are capable of 11.5" travel shocks at that lift height. I usually suggest arms with joints like the Curries if you are needing them anyway to adjust caster or the rear pinion angle.
08-01-2015, 07:01 AM
#23
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Also, depending on your model year and transmission type, you may have clearance issues with the front drive shaft and either the exhaust tube or the transmission pan when the suspension articulates.
Regarding the front springs coming unseated, your jeep will perform better if they stay almost completely seated. 2" unseated is too much. If you relocate the shock mounts, consider the affect on the needed the bumpstop height to prevent bottoming out the shocks.
I know you want to stay low, but a 1/2" front coil spacer could reduce the coil unseating. In the rear, a 1/2" coil spacer like the Teraflex ones that have a center guide for the springs can help too.
Regarding the front springs coming unseated, your jeep will perform better if they stay almost completely seated. 2" unseated is too much. If you relocate the shock mounts, consider the affect on the needed the bumpstop height to prevent bottoming out the shocks.
I know you want to stay low, but a 1/2" front coil spacer could reduce the coil unseating. In the rear, a 1/2" coil spacer like the Teraflex ones that have a center guide for the springs can help too.
08-01-2015, 07:11 AM
#24
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You'll need extended brakelines with OME LT shocks. You'll also need to reroute the front ABS lines over the knuckle.
You won't need 2" extended rear bumpstops unless you run rear lower shock relocation brackets--like the EVO RockStars. Without the relocation brackets, you want to cycle and measure to determine the needed rear bumpstops.
The OME LT shocks work with OME 2"-3" springs, with rear coil retainers.
With the RK springs, you will for sure need coil retainers. However, you might also want limit straps.
The stock arms are capable of 11.5" travel shocks at that lift height. I usually suggest arms with joints like the Curries if you are needing them anyway to adjust caster or the rear pinion angle.
You won't need 2" extended rear bumpstops unless you run rear lower shock relocation brackets--like the EVO RockStars. Without the relocation brackets, you want to cycle and measure to determine the needed rear bumpstops.
The OME LT shocks work with OME 2"-3" springs, with rear coil retainers.
With the RK springs, you will for sure need coil retainers. However, you might also want limit straps.
The stock arms are capable of 11.5" travel shocks at that lift height. I usually suggest arms with joints like the Curries if you are needing them anyway to adjust caster or the rear pinion angle.
Just the rear will need brake lines? The front looked good after I disconnected it from the coil perch. The rear looked ok but I know it wasn't fully extended. I'll have to take a look at the ABS line and hopefully can figure out what you mean.
It seems that most people don't run limiting straps that I can tell. How do you decide when to do it? Like I said I measured 29" extended front and the shock will only do 27.3". Will that be enough stress to want them on there or will I rarely even have it maxed out?
As far as arms I figured I would wear these out then switch over to the RK arms (perfomance/cost looks good). I haven't checked caster yet as it seems to drive really well and the lift height is so little.
Thanks for all the help to everyone and keep it coming! I'm definitely a novice but have been reading a long time and trying to do this the proper way the first time around. I may live in the city but want my money and time to be well spent when I hit the trails.
08-01-2015, 07:18 AM
#25
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Also, depending on your model year and transmission type, you may have clearance issues with the front drive shaft and either the exhaust tube or the transmission pan when the suspension articulates.
Regarding the front springs coming unseated, your jeep will perform better if they stay almost completely seated. 2" unseated is too much. If you relocate the shock mounts, consider the affect on the needed the bumpstop height to prevent bottoming out the shocks.
I know you want to stay low, but a 1/2" front coil spacer could reduce the coil unseating. In the rear, a 1/2" coil spacer like the Teraflex ones that have a center guide for the springs can help too.
Regarding the front springs coming unseated, your jeep will perform better if they stay almost completely seated. 2" unseated is too much. If you relocate the shock mounts, consider the affect on the needed the bumpstop height to prevent bottoming out the shocks.
I know you want to stay low, but a 1/2" front coil spacer could reduce the coil unseating. In the rear, a 1/2" coil spacer like the Teraflex ones that have a center guide for the springs can help too.
I bought front lower and rear upper/lower retainers. The shock or limit strap would keep the front coil a bit more seated probably?
1/2" spacers could definitely be an option. I fit in my parking garage so a little more height is doable. That wouldn't affect bump stops, brake lines, or anything else would it?
08-01-2015, 07:39 AM
#26
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Thanks for jumping in here. Was using a lot of info from your post in the sticky (#36). I stuffed the rear without the bumpstops and put the rear tire into the pinch seam so put the 2" bump back in. Same with the front (tried none, 1", 2" was good).
Just the rear will need brake lines? The front looked good after I disconnected it from the coil perch. The rear looked ok but I know it wasn't fully extended. I'll have to take a look at the ABS line and hopefully can figure out what you mean.
It seems that most people don't run limiting straps that I can tell. How do you decide when to do it? Like I said I measured 29" extended front and the shock will only do 27.3". Will that be enough stress to want them on there or will I rarely even have it maxed out?
As far as arms I figured I would wear these out then switch over to the RK arms (perfomance/cost looks good). I haven't checked caster yet as it seems to drive really well and the lift height is so little.
Thanks for all the help to everyone and keep it coming! I'm definitely a novice but have been reading a long time and trying to do this the proper way the first time around. I may live in the city but want my money and time to be well spent when I hit the trails.
Just the rear will need brake lines? The front looked good after I disconnected it from the coil perch. The rear looked ok but I know it wasn't fully extended. I'll have to take a look at the ABS line and hopefully can figure out what you mean.
It seems that most people don't run limiting straps that I can tell. How do you decide when to do it? Like I said I measured 29" extended front and the shock will only do 27.3". Will that be enough stress to want them on there or will I rarely even have it maxed out?
As far as arms I figured I would wear these out then switch over to the RK arms (perfomance/cost looks good). I haven't checked caster yet as it seems to drive really well and the lift height is so little.
Thanks for all the help to everyone and keep it coming! I'm definitely a novice but have been reading a long time and trying to do this the proper way the first time around. I may live in the city but want my money and time to be well spent when I hit the trails.
Since you are in Chicago, and the road salt and chemicals are awful in the winter, you may not want to do this, but I'd take a sawsall or grinder with a cutoff wheel to that rear pinch seam in order to be able to run shorter extended bumpstops, and then prime, paint, and put something like bedlinen on the edges.
Running 1" rear lift springs and 2" rear extended bumpstops will decrease your up-travel by 1" over stock--which isn't super great anyway. The closer you can get to 50% up travel and 50% down travel with your 11.5" travel shocks, the better the jeep will handle in a greater variety of circumstances.
If you don't really want to trim the rear pinch seams that much, then maybe that is another reason to run a short rear coil spacer that has a center post guide (for coil retention) and maintain at least stock suspension up travel.
Here is an example of a rear spacer with a center guide:
Regarding the front ABS lines, stock they run under the knuckle in a bracket like in the pic below. You may find that upon full droop that the lines are too taught--even if you loosen things by hand first. If so, you can reroute them above the knuckle.
Limit straps are easy if you have someone with a welder.
08-01-2015, 07:49 AM
#27
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It's a 2015 automatic. I really need to get out and test it more because I cut it short the other day because my dad is absolutely frustrating with this offroad build.
I bought front lower and rear upper/lower retainers. The shock or limit strap would keep the front coil a bit more seated probably?
1/2" spacers could definitely be an option. I fit in my parking garage so a little more height is doable. That wouldn't affect bump stops, brake lines, or anything else would it?
I bought front lower and rear upper/lower retainers. The shock or limit strap would keep the front coil a bit more seated probably?
1/2" spacers could definitely be an option. I fit in my parking garage so a little more height is doable. That wouldn't affect bump stops, brake lines, or anything else would it?
You will need rear lower coil retainers. That is were people unseat their springs to the point they fall out on full articulation.
1/2" spacers on top of 2" front and 1" rear lift springs won't require you to change anything else. If you end up with more than 2.5" in the front, you'll want to correct caster with front lower arms or relocation brackets. At about 2" lift in the rear, that's when you will want a rear trackbar relocation bracket. The clearances in the rear between the frame, brakelines, swayer and links, etc. is fairly tight--particularly when you start to run longer travel shocks. So, it's important that your rear axle is fairly close to centered under the frame so that you don't tangle links with hard brakelines.
Dirtman did mention earlier that to run those shocks, you will need longer rear swaybar links, and you will want front quick-disconnecting swaybar links.
08-01-2015, 08:52 AM
#28
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With the OME LT shocks, you will want front and rear extended brakelines. You may get by with just front relocation brackets. I didn't try that when I ran that setup.
Since you are in Chicago, and the road salt and chemicals are awful in the winter, you may not want to do this, but I'd take a sawsall or grinder with a cutoff wheel to that rear pinch seam in order to be able to run shorter extended bumpstops, and then prime, paint, and put something like bedlinen on the edges.
Running 1" rear lift springs and 2" rear extended bumpstops will decrease your up-travel by 1" over stock--which isn't super great anyway. The closer you can get to 50% up travel and 50% down travel with your 11.5" travel shocks, the better the jeep will handle in a greater variety of circumstances.
If you don't really want to trim the rear pinch seams that much, then maybe that is another reason to run a short rear coil spacer that has a center post guide (for coil retention) and maintain at least stock suspension up travel.
Here is an example of a rear spacer with a center guide:
Regarding the front ABS lines, stock they run under the knuckle in a bracket like in the pic below. You may find that upon full droop that the lines are too taught--even if you loosen things by hand first. If so, you can reroute them above the knuckle.
Limit straps are easy if you have someone with a welder.
Since you are in Chicago, and the road salt and chemicals are awful in the winter, you may not want to do this, but I'd take a sawsall or grinder with a cutoff wheel to that rear pinch seam in order to be able to run shorter extended bumpstops, and then prime, paint, and put something like bedlinen on the edges.
Running 1" rear lift springs and 2" rear extended bumpstops will decrease your up-travel by 1" over stock--which isn't super great anyway. The closer you can get to 50% up travel and 50% down travel with your 11.5" travel shocks, the better the jeep will handle in a greater variety of circumstances.
If you don't really want to trim the rear pinch seams that much, then maybe that is another reason to run a short rear coil spacer that has a center post guide (for coil retention) and maintain at least stock suspension up travel.
Here is an example of a rear spacer with a center guide:
Regarding the front ABS lines, stock they run under the knuckle in a bracket like in the pic below. You may find that upon full droop that the lines are too taught--even if you loosen things by hand first. If so, you can reroute them above the knuckle.
Limit straps are easy if you have someone with a welder.
I have the brake relo brackets so I'll check how the rears do whenever I get a chance. Would like to not have to change them.
I did recently meet a local Jeeper that welds so that may work out for the limit straps.
08-01-2015, 08:56 AM
#29
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With a '15, I believe you may need some exhaust spacers to allow more droop of the driveshaft before it contacts the exhaust.
You will need rear lower coil retainers. That is were people unseat their springs to the point they fall out on full articulation.
1/2" spacers on top of 2" front and 1" rear lift springs won't require you to change anything else. If you end up with more than 2.5" in the front, you'll want to correct caster with front lower arms or relocation brackets. At about 2" lift in the rear, that's when you will want a rear trackbar relocation bracket. The clearances in the rear between the frame, brakelines, swayer and links, etc. is fairly tight--particularly when you start to run longer travel shocks. So, it's important that your rear axle is fairly close to centered under the frame so that you don't tangle links with hard brakelines.
Dirtman did mention earlier that to run those shocks, you will need longer rear swaybar links, and you will want front quick-disconnecting swaybar links.
You will need rear lower coil retainers. That is were people unseat their springs to the point they fall out on full articulation.
1/2" spacers on top of 2" front and 1" rear lift springs won't require you to change anything else. If you end up with more than 2.5" in the front, you'll want to correct caster with front lower arms or relocation brackets. At about 2" lift in the rear, that's when you will want a rear trackbar relocation bracket. The clearances in the rear between the frame, brakelines, swayer and links, etc. is fairly tight--particularly when you start to run longer travel shocks. So, it's important that your rear axle is fairly close to centered under the frame so that you don't tangle links with hard brakelines.
Dirtman did mention earlier that to run those shocks, you will need longer rear swaybar links, and you will want front quick-disconnecting swaybar links.
Plan was to keep it low enough to not need any arms or track bars. Hopefully I can keep that up.
I don't remember seeing anyone mention longer swaybar links in the rear but I will definitely add them to the list. The longer front disconnects are on order now.
08-01-2015, 05:43 PM
#30
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So in reality is my best option to go 2.5" springs with arms and track bars with current long travel shocks if I don't plan to add Evo Rock Stars and shorter rear shocks? Would that maximize travel the best while having more travel before unseating the coils? I really threw myself for a loop with these long travel shocks and needing rear bump stops! I get that I would still need front/rear sway links, brake lines probably, possibly limit straps, relocate ABS line, coil retainers, and possible exhaust spacer. I do plan to try a 1" bump in the rear to see if that would work with pinch seam and shock compression.
Last edited by auceny; 08-02-2015 at 03:06 AM.