Flexer07

I agree gussets, diff covers, truss, sleeves, and ball joints. Don't forget a tierod if you don't have one. I bent mine this weekend lol

Tatonka456

As far as gussets, I'm ordering ORE's and noticed they are 3/16th inch thick versus some others (Artec's) are 1/4"...I don't want then rubbing on the coil perch, which is why I went with ORE's...but, if you folks have any input that'd be great, can always go with the thicker gussets before they're welded on.

rsbmg

I will just tell you what I have done. 2013 JKU Artec Trusses front and rear Artec C Gussets RCV Axles up front Ten Factory rear Riddler Diff covers new gears of course.

I kept my stock axles as spares. I have not done ball joints as of yet. I'm still on my 32's so no worries there. I'm working my build backwards meaning the 37's is the last thing that will go on it. I chose to do it this way for a few reasons. One I actually enjoy driving it on 32's and wheeling with my buddies on 35's and 37's and going everywhere they do. Two, I have very little worries of breaking anything as my build progresses. Three As I do things in stages it allows me to work out any wobbles or issues that arise at each stage so I will never be guessing what my problem is.

Next up is suspension which will also be done in stages then tires and wheels. Balljoints I will have and as they show wear or if one breaks I will replace them all at that time. My hope is that they just start to wear and I can replace at home but if one just goes then no worries.

Hope some of that helps and I have done the math, as others have said swapping a PR44 for a Rubi 44 just doesn't make sense to me financially or mechanically. In my opinion a trussed Rubi44 as I have built it is going to be stronger than an non-trussed PR44. Some may disagree but I'm completely satisfied with my decision at this time. If you like spending money for a questionable return on investment by all means get a PR44.

devwil68

Ok, so say you have a sleeved and gusseted d30 running 37s. Would you say no choice but a PR44?

DunnyBunny

I wouldn't say no choice. You could just do a stock 44 since your weak spot right now with the armored D30 is the ring and pinion. Depends on your offroad use and if you plan on going bigger than 37s. You can get a built 44 so I hear for $1200-2000 and that's a hell of a lot cheaper and more reasonable than a PR44

rsbmg

You always have a choice. Plenty of folks run built D30's with no problems. You may or may not find yourself with a problem that's the risk. I think if you have the money and don't mind parting with it a PR44 is a great upgrade to a D30 but I'm not one of the folks who think a PR44 is some holy grail solution to all issues drivetrain related. Everything surrounding upgrades boils down to your pocketbook and how much you are willing to spend. You can spend 0 dollars on upgrades and have a blast in your stock jeep. How much over 0 you spend is up to you.

ridelots24

not exactly what you're asking. but i had a d30 with C-gussets on 35's. When i wheeled it i was too cautious to burden the front axle, so when the wheel bearings went this year, i decided to upgrade.
i looked around and had lots of options; Currie; d60; some off brand that's supposed to be little better than stock 44. (local shop was pushing it)

i talked to Northridge - and PR-44 seemed like the best fit for the amount of wheeling i do and normal driving as well. Northridge makes it easy since they assemble your choices and ship.

mook8651

Hey so what did you end up going with on that pr44? Locker, ratio, axels? You never did fill me in on this

TheDirtman

I would not waste the money on a PR44 if you are going to that much work and expense there are other better options out there. I would at least want a lock out hub up front if I were going to drop that amount of coil on an axle.

Invest2m4

But the bearings are the same on the PR44... Plus, it's a $180 fix and 2 hours of work.

Again, a PR44 is like a semi-float D60. They don't fix the weak points created by larger tires. Stock rear axle: set 10 bearings. $5000 PR60 semi-float: set 10 bearings. Weak axle shaft flanges? You bet.

This discussion will get interesting when Dana releases their new 60s.