Crashauto

Hey everyone, sorry for the newb question but here goes. I bought a 13 wrangler that was hit in the front and it bent the front axle tubes. It originally had a d30. So i decided to buy a d44 out of a rubicon with tru lok. I spent $2k on it but now i am second guessing myself. Should i have bought a PR44? I know its more money but is it easier to hook up? Im not too familiar with the rubi tru lok, so do i have to hook it up? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Also, my rear axle is a 3.21 so i know it has to be regeared.

Dan

D_engel

the tru lock will be exactly the same in both the D44 and PR44. The PR44 is going to be inherently stronger, but for a few hundred bucks and a little help from a buddy with a welder, you can truss, sleeve and gusset the D44 making it just as strong as the PR44. Wiring the tru lock is a pretty easy task with an analog switch and the correct relay. Plenty of good write ups out there for wiring an e locker

Crashauto

What would happen if you didnt hook up the e locker? Also, my rear axle isnt equipped with e lock. Does that mean i have to replace the entire rear axle?

nthinuf

All of the brackets will be the same, so either one will bolt right up. Which locker is easier to hook up will depend on what you order the PR with. (Truetrac or Detroit, nothing needed. Electric locker, run the wires and mount a swtich, same as with the rubi axle. Air locker, mount a compressor, run air line, run wires, mount the switch. Don't think the PR will take an OX, so no worries about a cable locker)

The plus for the PR/Tera will be the built-in caster correction, and the ability to use a wider variety of lockers.
The plus for the rubi axle is that you already have it. Choose what upgrades you want to make, (gussets/truss/inner or outer sleeves, alloy shafts, hd balljoints, hd mounts, whatever) and add up these costs, then add that total to the cost for a regear, to see what you come up with. If all of your wanted additions come close to the cost of a PR/Tera 44, sell it. If they don't, keep it and go have fun.

They are selectable lockers. They act like an open diff (like your current rear axle) until you press the button. The rear being open is not an issue. If you don't hook up the front elocker, then you have another open axle that won't lock. Again, not an issue. A waste, but not an issue.

Crashauto

What are the true benefits of them locking?

Rmiller31

ARB Air Locker Benefits: http://youtu.be/bvOgneVbVnE

rsbmg

FIFY

nthinuf

Why are you spending a bunch of money on an axle (or axles) with a locker if you don't know what a locker does?

Simple example: one rear tire on dry pavement, the other on slick ice. You step on the gas, and all the power goes to the path of least resistance - the tire on ice. It gets all the power and spins like crazy, while the tire on pavement gets none and you don't move. Press the button to engage the locker, and both tires get a more even distribution of the power. So even though you still have one tire on slick ice, there is now plenty of power going to the tire on pavement to move you forward. But that is just a simple example on pavement. Whether they are any benefit at all 'to you', only you can answer.

Invest2m4

^^^Have to agree with this. I read the first post and thought - smart move. Now it looks like a really bad decision. You have no need or use for the axle you bought, but it will cost you a lot of money. You'd have been far better off buying a replacement D30 (which you could pick up for maybe $600).

Why buy the D44 if you don't want the locker or gear ratio? Same exact housing as a D30, so you didn't gain anything there.

Crashauto

point me in the direction of someone that has one for $600. Every salvage yard around metro Detroit wanted at least $1800, so for $200 more i decided to just go with the d44