dana super 60
08-21-2014, 09:11 AM
#11
JK Junkie
I am really hoping I can make it happen without notching the frame in the rear. It probably comes down to how much back space I want to run. I love my ATX Slabs, so a new set of those with 3.5" BS would make life easy, but that is crazy wide.
08-21-2014, 09:22 AM
#12
JK Jedi
Outboard ORIs. I measured the rear axle and it has about 5"-6" more axle tube than my stock 44 (I'll get an accurate measurement once they're in my garage tomorrow).
I am really hoping I can make it happen without notching the frame in the rear. It probably comes down to how much back space I want to run. I love my ATX Slabs, so a new set of those with 3.5" BS would make life easy, but that is crazy wide.
I am really hoping I can make it happen without notching the frame in the rear. It probably comes down to how much back space I want to run. I love my ATX Slabs, so a new set of those with 3.5" BS would make life easy, but that is crazy wide.
08-21-2014, 10:24 AM
#13
JK Junkie
08-21-2014, 10:33 AM
#14
JK Jedi
i can look closer tonight for you. Front will clear fine, the rear i have my lower mount all the way out to my bracket where i did my brake conversion. To get mine 69 wide though i used spacers, so if yours is that wide without you may sneak by. Ringer made it work on a stock width wich is close to what mine was until the spacers, but he had to go damn near thru the frame i believe. i regret doing the d60 rear especially the one i have lol.
09-03-2014, 10:41 AM
#15
JK Newbie
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Dana
Went ahead and bought the Dana super 60 casting no. 256, i was looking for the 248 which is suppose to be 69" WMS - WMS, i could not find a 248 and the guy told me this 256 was 73" so i decided that would work, however when i got the axel it is actually 77". if the dully wheel extenders are removed 84.5 with them on. So I will be narrowing the axel, I believe i can get away with just shortening the pass side tube, does anyone know if that will work, What to watch put for, I've heard the drive shaft clearance is tight on the drivers side. Also, if im doing one tube , is it worth just doing both and changing the castor and pinion angle? Also starting to figure pieces for the build, does anyone have a source for unit bearing that the not $500 a piece from Currie. I have also heard some complaints about spongy, if sticking with the OEM calipers, I don't see any reason to not use the calipers short of I need to hit the gym to make sure I can hang one. What have guys been doing on the spongy petal, is there a bolt on booster?
Thx
Thx