did you install prorock axle yourself?
12-05-2012, 11:12 AM
#21
JK Enthusiast
Two 6 ton(min) jack stands will get you the body height you need safely. If you have access to two floor jacks will make it easier. I suggest to strip the housing while under the heap (rotors, knuckles, axles) for stability sake and makes it a little lighter moving it around. Have help coming out and going in with the new housing, going to want to roll on you due to weight of the yoke. Don't ask your wife or girl friend(ask me how I know this). After it's back under the heap put the heavy stuff back on..
12-05-2012, 11:49 AM
#22
JK Super Freak
I did my pro rock swap in my driveway, had the gears and carrier setup by a professional shop here for 275$CAN.
It was a very simple process. Also take your steering off last so you can use your steering to assist in pulling off your unit bearing as it will probably we welded to the knuckled from rust,
Make sure to buy a tie rod end puller , and a pickle fork.
It was a very simple process. Also take your steering off last so you can use your steering to assist in pulling off your unit bearing as it will probably we welded to the knuckled from rust,
Make sure to buy a tie rod end puller , and a pickle fork.
12-05-2012, 02:56 PM
#23
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I also got my Pro Rock 44 from Dave at Northridge. I ordered it with gears, locker and Dynatrac ball joints already in it. I have 12 ton jack stands so they were just about at their lowest point under the frame making it very solid. If you did coils before you can handle this. I have the Unlimited also and you will notice the Jeep has a more solid feel to it when you go over bumps on the road. I put in RCV shafts at the same time. Be sure and have all the torque specs beforehand for all the different bolts and a good torque wrench. It’s a fun project with a very rewarding outcome.
12-05-2012, 02:57 PM
#24
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I did my pro rock swap in my driveway, had the gears and carrier setup by a professional shop here for 275$CAN.
It was a very simple process. Also take your steering off last so you can use your steering to assist in pulling off your unit bearing as it will probably we welded to the knuckled from rust,
Make sure to buy a tie rod end puller , and a pickle fork.
It was a very simple process. Also take your steering off last so you can use your steering to assist in pulling off your unit bearing as it will probably we welded to the knuckled from rust,
Make sure to buy a tie rod end puller , and a pickle fork.
12-05-2012, 04:20 PM
#25
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Yes, the pickle fork is a must!! ^^ On you tube they have a video of some guys putting in a pro rock 44 and the steering knuckles come off the old axle with a couple taps of a hammer. I wondered how on earth my 4 month old jeep could require me pounding the shit out of it until chunks were flying off my rubber mallet before going and buying the pickle fork.
12-05-2012, 06:18 PM
#26
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Even though pickle fork often works, I would not buy it or use it for what it's meant. There is a better product:
No hammering required and tie rod ends pop out very easily, with pretty much zero effort, where a pickle fork and a hammer failed.
No hammering required and tie rod ends pop out very easily, with pretty much zero effort, where a pickle fork and a hammer failed.
12-06-2012, 06:53 AM
#29
JK Super Freak
Even though pickle fork often works, I would not buy it or use it for what it's meant. There is a better product:
Attachment 395620
No hammering required and tie rod ends pop out very easily, with pretty much zero effort, where a pickle fork and a hammer failed.
Attachment 395620
No hammering required and tie rod ends pop out very easily, with pretty much zero effort, where a pickle fork and a hammer failed.
Tie rod puller will make quick work of the tie rod ends and the drag link end on the knuckles, pickle fork will be needed to remove the knuckle from the ball joints on the axle.
12-06-2012, 09:34 AM
#30
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