CerOf

Ummm.....somebody is grumpy about Dynatrac.

FYI, Currie has a beefed up JK 44, Teraflex has a beefed up 44, G2 has one.

http://www.teraflex.biz/jk-tera44-he...e-housing.html
http://www.rwkhaussupply.com/magento...y-housing.html
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-J...f2C4JMFS456AP5

For the record, I have stock rubi axles.

If you need to be self sufficient, build it strong, once. I know several who have 60s that likely don't need them; however, they have peace and security. When exploring, with wife, kids, and family fido, a break down is not cool.

Sent from some string and a few tin cans.

Invest2m4

I meant dyna was out with the 44 long before another came along. Currie and G2 hit the market this year. Tera, sure, notably longer.

Point is, if someone needs to upgrade a 44 to a 44, well you can do the logic there. I have no beef with dyna - they make good stuff. Only thing that makes less sense is $5k for a semi float PR60. But hey, they needed something that was a match for the 44

CerOf

I hear ya. If you are going to spend that much, I'd say save up another $3k for the 60. The 44 is around $5k? and 60 is about $8k?

But at what point do you say, wait, I'm snapping axle shafts, ujoints, and bending housings but not R&Ps....then a beefier 44 makes sense. It will shift the weak link to the R&P, but I don't think I've heard of many having an issue with the ring gear as it is thicker and not much heard about the pinion...

I think you have to find where your budget and peace of mind intersect on the x,y axis. Then you get all messed up with the z axis which is the impulse and $$ burning a hole in your pocket.

Sent from some string and a few tin cans.

JE8154

replace the front with a 60 you're also replacing your wheels. Change the bolt pattern on the front and you should change it on the rear as well. A 44 is going to be good enough for 90% of the guys wheeling a couple weekends a month on 37's. Guys say don't bother with a 44 when only considering the price difference between a 44 and a 60 front. There's a lot more going into it.

Mark Doiron

I've had very good luck with a built X. Just in case you're on a phone, here's what I have ...



It now has 146,000 miles on it with plenty of failures, because of the use I put it to, but the axles are just fine. And here's that use I put it to ...





















https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQHYl2Kp5ww https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6DqD-lxtKc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4TZkduhlRM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__eRvYZ9TXY Only you can judge if you think my use is consistent with yours. If so, I direct you to my parts list that led off this post.

Ancient Machine

Thank you all very much for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate everyone's input and am thinking hard on it all. I've done a lot with a stock X axle, but I've also done a lot of damage to a stock axle.

Mark, I'm glad you commented, thank you. I've followed a lot of your threads and comments. My usage will be almost exactly the type of things you've done and in the places you've gone (you can imagine what my road trip from Phoenix back to AK will be like). I am concerned that my wheeling skill is merely novice, and that skill is a large factor in getting your rig through unscathed. My question to you is: If you had to do it again, with a 2012+ JKU, how would you do it? Considering your gears and drivetrain upgrades, would you get a Sport and just add prebuilt axles, or modify the stock ones as you've done? I mean, you've done a LOT to those axles, but I'm assuming that's over time. Would the total value be better with new bolt-ons?

ETA: Mark I actually had your parts list open on a different tab before you commented!

I'd like to do these mods before I move (obviously) so that the road trip is more of an overlanding journey and because I'm concerned about freighting the parts up to AK. If I lay out my wishlist (and everyone please feel free to comment on it):

35s TBD
2.5-3" lift TBD
4.56s
At least a rear locker, even if it's not selectable
Reliability is paramount, so either built axles or new axles
recovery, storage, general gear needs (mentioned for weight)

I know everyone will have a different answer, but if I want a rig that is just reliable enough, capable, and great on the long-haul road, are these mods a good start, and what's the best way about building it and paying for it with the least pain and effort?

My previous jeep had 35 Trxxus MTs, OME HD 2.5 lift, and RCV shafts (learned that lesson after destroying the axle) and it rode very well but was a pure dog on the road (auto JKUX 07, 4.10s).

Huggerls1

Build it before you head back to ak. As a Phoenix native and currently living in fairbanks ak, I don't see much need for a built rig up here. In the winter you can't really go anywhere of main roads unless you have tracks and the summer I've been able to go everywhere I've wanted with my 4 inch lift and 35s with 373 gears. I guess anchorage/ Palmer area may have some more serious trails but my jeep rarely goes into 4wd on all the trails I've been on. Ive made the journey from Phoenix to ak and will be excited in a year from now to make it back to az with more stops along the way.

Probably no help to you in this thread but what the hell. If I could do it over id get the rubi and be done with it since that would be overkill for me.

Ancient Machine

I appreciate the insight! You're right about Fairbanks. I was stationed there for three years and had no issues with a 2WD blazer and all-terrains getting most places. Down in Wasilla and throughout the whole SE though, it can get a little hairy with either deceptively dodgy mud or absolutely insanely steep roads that are solid ice - just to get around normal neighborhoods (that is only a few neighborhoods in Anchorage I can think of). Truth be told, I'd rather break down in the middle of AK in the summer than in the desert here. Winter up there, my wheeling is restricted to in-town obstacles and getting around at Alyeska.

Mark Doiron

First off, apologies to everyone about the videos. Apparently there is a bug in the YouTube code that is causing videos on a page to start automatically. So all four of my videos are starting. Rather annoying, isn't it?


If I was starting from scratch, would I get the Rubi? I probably would. But then, finances would not be an issue--If I couldn't afford it then I'd wait and buy it in a year. Most of the folks with whom I overland run Rubi's. I think that the one thing that I don't care for is the transfer case ... not for overlanding where higher speeds in 4WD are more common than rock crawling. But, it can be lived with.

However, if I had an X or Sport that was already paid off or well on its way to being paid off, what would I do? I'd make do with what I had. I like my 35s, but have a friend with a built 2012 who is running 33s and does quite well with them (in a Rubi). I rode with him up Blanca Peak (Colarado Campaign videos on my YouTube channel), and he'd be the first to describe his driving skills as "novice" (he's actually more experienced than he admits, though, but not excessively so). The 3.6 does very well with the 4.10 gears it came with and the 33" tires.

If I decided on 35s (guess I've already done that, LOL), I'd go with the 4.88s and not the 4.56s if this were a 3.8 build. There are still times when the 3.8 is hurting even with the 4.88s. I wouldn't go 5.13s unless I had an auto--and even then I'd be a bit reluctant. The auto alone might be enough to push me to get the later model with the 3.6.

As far as lockers: Definitely put one in the rear. I've hardly used mine, and the front one makes it very difficult to steer. But, those few times I've used the rear I could really tell the difference. Because of snow/ice I'd research the non-selectable lockers carefully. Having tires lock up when driving on slick surfaces has got to be a problem. Find out what folks think and their experiences.

Finally I'd strengthen up the front axle, regardless of Jeep model. Sleeves and gussets and maybe Chromoly axles. Synergy ball joints when the OEMs fail. I replaced the drag link and tie rod when the drag link bent, and the friend on 33s I mentioned replaced his drag link and tie rod after the Colorado Campaign where his tie rod bent. I went with Currie because it was all there was ATT, but the friend went with Synergy. A little smaller, but tougher than OEM, and a bit easier to avoid things bumping into each other down there because of the smaller size (because of that "things bumping into each other" I had to run my steering stabilizer to the drag link instead of the tie rod--works, but not usual JK configuration).

Hope that is helpful.

Ancient Machine

It seems the 3.6 auto w/ 4.88s would perform similarly to the 3.8 manual with 4.88s. If I went with a Rubi I'd probably be on 4.10s for a good long time. I'd like to transfer my 33s over to it if I get one, so 4.10s and 33s until the tires are done. I'd really feel odd spending all that money on a Rubi just to crack it open and put new gears in, and I'd probably only go to 4.56s for the trade off in economy. But if I started with 4.10s I'd probably stay with them for a long, loooong time.

The Rubi really covers all the other bases: lockers, a bigger axle (that would be reinforced regardless), and 4.10s - and it does it under warranty but at a damn high price. A price that is easier to stomach initially because it will be financed.

With a Rubi or Sport I'd still be paying for reinforcement and RCV shafts.

With a Sport I'd need to regear, reinforce, and lockerize with a selectable locker (good call Mark, definitely want selectable on that ice). That price starts to get really close to the point where I couldn't justify spending that much and NOT doing an axle swap, and that axle would really only be a 44 most likely!

The thought of spending too much or regretting the path and making a $2-10k mistake really makes me anxious.