The dilemma of a 3.6L overland build
10-19-2014, 09:02 PM
#22
JK Newbie
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Two things. One sounds like you know you need the Rubicon, but you keep trying to talk your way out of it. Cause you wanna build it...
Two even if you go Rubicon, there still is plenty for you to do so its all yours.
I do basically everything you do. Its like your writing this page for me. Get the Rubicon. Trust me, it is easier, still all yours, way less $$ in the long run.
I love my Rubicon 13. I got the manual but if you get the auto you get remote start lol. With the better transfer case, better axle, better gears (good for your 35's i promise), sway bar disconnect, i promise you wont be let down. So... when are you getting it? Or have you already?
Two even if you go Rubicon, there still is plenty for you to do so its all yours.
I do basically everything you do. Its like your writing this page for me. Get the Rubicon. Trust me, it is easier, still all yours, way less $$ in the long run.
I love my Rubicon 13. I got the manual but if you get the auto you get remote start lol. With the better transfer case, better axle, better gears (good for your 35's i promise), sway bar disconnect, i promise you wont be let down. So... when are you getting it? Or have you already?
10-19-2014, 09:56 PM
#23
JK Freak
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PR44s are way overrated in my view and the cost is insane for what you get. There's a reason no one else made a replacement 44 for a JK - it didn't make sense. Congrats to Dynatrac for building something no one needs, but everyone will buy.
Keep things simple. One payment. You'll be happy you have the t-case. The 4.10 gears are perfect for 35s. You have lockers. Toss some c-gussets on and some sleeves, and call it good. You'll have a warranty and peace of mind. If that isn't strong enough, then you need D60s.
The axle shafts on the Rubi got beefier joints this year as well, so the stock shafts should be all you need.
Keep things simple. One payment. You'll be happy you have the t-case. The 4.10 gears are perfect for 35s. You have lockers. Toss some c-gussets on and some sleeves, and call it good. You'll have a warranty and peace of mind. If that isn't strong enough, then you need D60s.
The axle shafts on the Rubi got beefier joints this year as well, so the stock shafts should be all you need.
10-20-2014, 03:49 AM
#24
JK Junkie
First off, this thread is old. Second, try reading all of the responses and you will see where someone said the same thing and I clarified that I meant Dynatrac was in the market for years before anyone else produced one. Currie/G2 was this year, Teraflax somewhat longer. Dynatrac created a market so the others came in. I'll stick with my original comment though that it's a waste of money and pissing into the wind. Right up there with a semi-float rear 60.
10-20-2014, 04:39 AM
#25
JK Super Freak
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First off, this thread is old. Second, try reading all of the responses and you will see where someone said the same thing and I clarified that I meant Dynatrac was in the market for years before anyone else produced one. Currie/G2 was this year, Teraflax somewhat longer. Dynatrac created a market so the others came in. I'll stick with my original comment though that it's a waste of money and pissing into the wind. Right up there with a semi-float rear 60.
For same cost as stock housing. This would have been much better built, stronger etc and cheaper. It's nice to have another option besides factory stuff.
There is clearly a market out there, especially for the pr44(as its front only) Io have my front 30 all armored up but would consider a built 44 as replacement. The reason more players have entered game is because the market is there, they aren't crewting an "artificial" market. Also, have you seen how much most people want for a rubi front? From what I have seen 2500-3k. Obviously 60 would be nice but wayyyyy over my needa
Last edited by cormac827; 10-20-2014 at 04:43 AM.
10-20-2014, 06:14 AM
#26
JK Junkie
I disagree. I was about to pick up a nice aftermarket 44 to replace my factory bent one.
For same cost as stock housing. This would have been much better built, stronger etc and cheaper. It's nice to have another option besides factory stuff.
There is clearly a market out there, especially for the pr44(as its front only) Io have my front 30 all armored up but would consider a built 44 as replacement. The reason more players have entered game is because the market is there, they aren't crewting an "artificial" market. Also, have you seen how much most people want for a rubi front? From what I have seen 2500-3k. Obviously 60 would be nice but wayyyyy over my needa
For same cost as stock housing. This would have been much better built, stronger etc and cheaper. It's nice to have another option besides factory stuff.
There is clearly a market out there, especially for the pr44(as its front only) Io have my front 30 all armored up but would consider a built 44 as replacement. The reason more players have entered game is because the market is there, they aren't crewting an "artificial" market. Also, have you seen how much most people want for a rubi front? From what I have seen 2500-3k. Obviously 60 would be nice but wayyyyy over my needa
The greater issue is that a $5k PR44 doesn't address the common failures. I've blown out Synergy ball joints, rear bearings on chromo shafts, front wheel bearings, drag link bushing - and that was just this season. Once in a while I hear of a ring & pinion failure and that is rarely anything but someone with a D30, 37s, and a gear ratio of 5.13.
10-20-2014, 07:04 AM
#27
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The only benefit to an aftermarket housing is that the housing is stronger. I agree with that. However, it makes no sense to spend a min of $2500 (that assumes you have a rubi axle and are swapping parts and find a shop that has cheap labor). For $300 you can truss a stock housing or for $120 you can sleeve it. Gussets are $60. If you can bend that you need a larger axle. The greater issue is that a $5k PR44 doesn't address the common failures. I've blown out Synergy ball joints, rear bearings on chromo shafts, front wheel bearings, drag link bushing - and that was just thiseason. Once in a while I hear of a ring & pinion failure and that is rarely anything but someone with a D30, 37s, and a gear ratio of 5.13.
10-20-2014, 07:24 AM
#28
JK Junkie
10-20-2014, 07:42 AM
#29
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10-20-2014, 09:47 PM
#30
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Yeah so I totally got a 2014 JKUR a couple weeks ago. It's awesome. So, so awesome. It's only got 3.73s and I put my 33s from my old JK on it and the power is still really impressive!
Anvil, Nav (NavTV going in soon), 33 Nitto Trail Grapplers, Procomp 7069s, some aftermarket bumper I'm having major issues with, Auto, all the fancy stuff I said I'd never want in a Jeep. It's such a great road trip machine!
I need to figure out my auto start situation before I move back to Anchorage here soon, I think I'm going to go with the Audiovox. I also need to get this tire carrier latch thing sorted, the damn thing opened and slammed my spare into the side of my Jeep while I was driving back from Sedona yesterday - talk about fury.
I'll regear when I get 35s after my Nittos need to be replaced. I'm going to get an AEV 2.5, gusset and sleeve the axle, get synergy ball joints, and mabe a few other things before I move, purely to save cost on shipping to AK.
Anvil, Nav (NavTV going in soon), 33 Nitto Trail Grapplers, Procomp 7069s, some aftermarket bumper I'm having major issues with, Auto, all the fancy stuff I said I'd never want in a Jeep. It's such a great road trip machine!
I need to figure out my auto start situation before I move back to Anchorage here soon, I think I'm going to go with the Audiovox. I also need to get this tire carrier latch thing sorted, the damn thing opened and slammed my spare into the side of my Jeep while I was driving back from Sedona yesterday - talk about fury.
I'll regear when I get 35s after my Nittos need to be replaced. I'm going to get an AEV 2.5, gusset and sleeve the axle, get synergy ball joints, and mabe a few other things before I move, purely to save cost on shipping to AK.