hmac

Planning on a Rock Krawler 3.5" X Factor mid arm lift in my 12' rubicon 2 dr w/ 35" or 37". After researching I've found I need to replace my front and rear drive shafts due to the angle and exhaust crossover. Any battle proven brands and tips. First jeep build and what to do it right.

mhockey9090

Adams Driveshaft is local to me but hear great reviews from everyone running them. Plus they are doing 15% off for their drive shafts starting tomorrow morning. Can get them in 1310 or 1350s

Micahs

I'm in the same situation. How do you know what length to get?

mhockey9090

Really easy man. Just do the measuring according to how they want it and then they will set you up with the correct length. Also they say their driveshafts are good for up to 6 inches lift so running 3.5 you have plenty of room.

http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.co...rts-tech-info/

TJM12

I'm planning to go with JE Reel driveshafts, I've only heard good things about them and the pricing is good too.

Cfitz22

For a 2 door all you should have to do is replace the front drive shaft. You can use the adjustable control arms in the rear to set the pinion angle. At least that is what I did in mine. 3 years later I am still running the stock in the rear. In the front I used JE Reel that has zerks at all the joints. I drop it and grease it after every oil change.

Septu

I have a 3.5" lift in mine (Metalcloak), and haven't replaced either DS. And I didn't put the spacer in my exhaust until the end of the summer. However I seemed to have bent my exhaust somehow (forced up, then flexed down?) so I think I had a little more room than one normally would. I take my new DS with me whenever I go wheeling... and I'm sure at some point I'll even have it installed lol.

GJeep

On 4" lift 4-dr, I chose the JE Reel 1350 for the front drive shaft.
The stock rear looks good after 2 years of constant on & off road.

On a 2-dr it's the other way around. The rear drive shaft should better be replaced, the front one can wait if you wish.

Billbikes

I have an Adams. When I called and ordered they knocked a few dollars off the web price of a 1310 with solid spicer front joint. I have several friends running their shafts and the free shirt is cool too, lol.

TheDirtman

Sizing will depend on your set up. For a jeep with proper axle gearing and the stock motor a 1310 driveshaft is more then enough. No reason at all to go to a 1350 unless you just want to spend more money. Tom Woods website has great info on driveshafts and how to measure. Even if you don't buy their shafts it is worth reading. Most after market shafts have plenty of spline to work with and measuring how your jeep sits lifted is the best way to go. Having adjustable control arms and shock travel will also affect the length of the driveshaft. On a short arm set up with a tall lift and long travel shocks it is best to take a couple of measurements at ride stuffed, ride height, and fully drooped as the drives shaft will change in length 2"-3" over that cycle. It will become longer as you stuff it and will shrink as you droop and you want to make sure the spine section does not bottom out. Shock travel really has more to do with the need for driveshafts then lift does. All the lift does in the equation further ruin your geometry and the amount of axle shift you get during articulation.

You can also install a limiting strap at the differentials to keep the driveshaft from making contact with the cross pipe and still run the factory drive shafts.

You might want to look around in your area as well. You would be surprised at how common local driveline shops are. You may find a shop that can build them for you and service them should you need it in the future.