Driveshafts, Ball joints and tie rod Ends?
08-19-2014, 01:43 PM
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Driveshafts, Ball joints and tie rod Ends?
So this spring I put on an AEV 4.5" Dualsport RS with 37's. I'm trying to plan ahead for driveshaft, ball joints and tie rod ends going to hell. What brands of these are you guys using and why did ya choose em? I'm not afraid to spend the money if it's bulletproof stuff!
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08-19-2014, 02:33 PM
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I haven't had the pleasure of replacing my tie rod ends yet but I have been VERY happy with my Synergy ball joints, they are going on 20k miles now and have seen some action. JEREEL driveshafts are next on the list. They seem to have a great reputation and fair pricing.
08-19-2014, 02:40 PM
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No such thing as bullet-proof...
Most of my front end is Synergy, good products with good reviews. Worth a look when you are comparing the different mfg's.
Most of my front end is Synergy, good products with good reviews. Worth a look when you are comparing the different mfg's.
08-19-2014, 02:43 PM
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So this spring I put on an AEV 4.5" Dualsport RS with 37's. I'm trying to plan ahead for driveshaft, ball joints and tie rod ends going to hell. What brands of these are you guys using and why did ya choose em? I'm not afraid to spend the money if it's bulletproof stuff! Sent from my iPad using JK-Forum
08-19-2014, 02:47 PM
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I love it! Rides better than stock and seems to be holding up well to heavy loads without sag! It's more of an expedition style jeep so I've gotta fuel caddy full size spare and hy lift on the rear! Sent from my iPad using JK-Forum
08-19-2014, 02:48 PM
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Synergy ball joints here, too. Good quality at a good price. Thought three times as much for Dynatrac was excessive for my use--you may prefer them.
Tom Woods front driveshaft. They replace the transfer case output flange with one that gets rid of those ten bolts holding the OEM one in place. Stronger, and quicker trail repairs. Also fully greasable. Which means you have to grease it, to include pulling the transfer case end down to access the ball on the CV joint with a needle fitting. My own stupidity, but I overlooked that hidden one and the driveshaft started squeaking. Nearly two years old. Pulled while camped in Great Smokies. Tom Woods repaired, parts only, free labor.
Tom Woods front driveshaft. They replace the transfer case output flange with one that gets rid of those ten bolts holding the OEM one in place. Stronger, and quicker trail repairs. Also fully greasable. Which means you have to grease it, to include pulling the transfer case end down to access the ball on the CV joint with a needle fitting. My own stupidity, but I overlooked that hidden one and the driveshaft started squeaking. Nearly two years old. Pulled while camped in Great Smokies. Tom Woods repaired, parts only, free labor.
08-19-2014, 03:31 PM
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Yea Mine is for the same, I have the full size spare as well, just need to save up for the high lift jack and a tire swing
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08-19-2014, 06:46 PM
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Synergy ball joints. Nice ball joints. Super tight.
Synergy tie rod. Heavy duty. Mine has taken a couple rocks. No damage. Just lost paint.
Tom woods 1350. As with most after market drivline remember to grease.
Synergy tie rod. Heavy duty. Mine has taken a couple rocks. No damage. Just lost paint.
Tom woods 1350. As with most after market drivline remember to grease.
08-20-2014, 06:12 PM
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Synergy ball joints are in mine too. I went with Adams driveshafts. I got my front driveshaft with nongreasable ujoints. The splined/slip joint is greaseable. Super easy to install. Make sure whatever driveshaft you get has spicer or neapco ujoints. I'd recommend c-gussets asap running 37" tires on stock axles.
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