Dynatrac PR44/60 or PR60/60
02-12-2017, 04:51 AM
#11
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I noticed you have the Hutchinsons, are they the 5.43 back spaced ones? Those are the ones I'll use if I go with the 60/60's and was just wondering if there was rubbing issues with them. If that backspace works it's another plus for the 60/60's due to tire coverage laws in NH.
"Ex Umbris Venimus"
02-12-2017, 06:34 AM
#12
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Are yours 5.43BS? Wider flares are possible but more of a final option. Trails around here were built years ago based on CJ's and some are already tight with a JK, but not out of the question.
02-12-2017, 07:30 AM
#14
JK Jedi
I just double checked the website and says 5.28" back space. I guess I should check mine to see if there was a change sometime. I do run a 2" adapter to gain the extra width for the 40's
With 37's and the pro rocks I would think you may get some rubbing with a 5.28" back space wheel but you can always limit with bump stop and keep the shocks in the 10-11" travel range.
With 37's and the pro rocks I would think you may get some rubbing with a 5.28" back space wheel but you can always limit with bump stop and keep the shocks in the 10-11" travel range.
02-12-2017, 09:22 AM
#15
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That would be my idea setup. I messaged chronotripper to see how that backspace worked for him but haven't heard back. I've been reading your suspension thread and am going to stay as low COG as possible, have a 2.5" metalcloak lift currently. I'm pretty sold on the 60/60s as long as the weight doesn't kill my highway speeds, it's a good excuse to do the LS swap but I have to commute until that happens.
02-12-2017, 09:34 AM
#16
JK Jedi
I would really look at going to around 4" of lift with 12" travel shocks on the pro rock 60 set up for extra up clearance and better fitment. With the increase in weight and width it will off set the top heavy feel of the the extra height. Get them caster corrected for 4" and make life more simple. At 2.5" it is real rough to fit hydraulic assist if you plan on doing that as well.
02-12-2017, 06:41 PM
#17
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I recently finished a similar build on my 2dr and would highly recommend a HP in the rear. The driveline angles are better which equal better strength, less possibility of harmonics and helps keep it out of the rocks. Also, the PR housing has better clearance than the LP and R&P is still very stout. The FF option has pros and cons but for a light 2dr that is not pushing lots of HP, the SF would live very well. Definitely go with the +3" width (although I would personally prefer +5" and a wheel with more BS to help with steering geometry). If you are going to run 37's, you will have less "massaging" to get everything to cycle/stuff properly. 3.5" lift works well for 37's and can work well for 40's if done properly.
You state this is a DD so I assume you aren't hitting the extreme trails with a nice full sheet metal JK.
You state this is a DD so I assume you aren't hitting the extreme trails with a nice full sheet metal JK.
02-13-2017, 07:25 AM
#18
JK Enthusiast
Pay once, cry once. Whatever is lost in ground clearance can be made up by taking a different line and you'll sleep better at night not worrying about a probable failure at some point, which will happen out in the middle of nowhere at the worst possible time. I've got PR60's front and rear and they're huge compared to the 44's my buddies run. Being able to unlock the hubs beats pulling a drive shaft and more if something does let go.
Besides, when you jump from 37's to 40's, you make up for whatever clearance was a concern and you don't have to worry about beefing up axles again.
Besides, when you jump from 37's to 40's, you make up for whatever clearance was a concern and you don't have to worry about beefing up axles again.
02-13-2017, 08:58 AM
#19
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I looked into seeing if the PRO Rock rear housing was an option on the HardCore package and it's not. It souls be a couple grand more to go that way with a full floater. I can get the semi float PR60 for about the same price as the standard cut full floater. So again,I have to choose between more strength or better driveshaft angles/ground clearance. If it wasn't a 2 door and/or DD I'd do full float for sure.
Thanks for all the advice.
Thanks for all the advice.
02-13-2017, 09:53 AM
#20
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Trying to decide between these two Dynatrac packages. Original plan was the PR44/60, but the more I look at the 60/60, the better value it seems, for an extra $1500 you get stronger axles that are complete, no reusing factory parts, FF rear and all the goodness of D60's. I know the 60s are overkill, I plan to stick with 37s so I know the 44/60 combo would handle those just fine, but there is a slim chance I may do an LS swap once the jeep is paid off in 2 years. The jeep is a '13 2 door manual. I have the cash to go either way and I need new wheels and driveshafts anyways so that's not a factor. I drive it daily and don't want to kill its performance.
These are my concerns:
-Is the added weight and loss of ground clearance of any significance? This is my main concern. I wheel in the northeast, mostly rock gardens and ledges and it can get slick with the mud. I dont want to be 'that guy' that just sits there spinning because of the heavy rig.
-The low pinion of the rear 60 (60/60 combo) is a disadvantage over the high pinion PR60 since I have a 2 door, little worried about pinion angles and drive shaft length.
-Width is a minor concern because of fender laws in New Hampshire but with some 5.26BS wheels they might be close enough.
I'm on the fence right now, and was wondering what your thoughts were? The cost isn't an issue since they are so close so I guess it comes down to whether the strength is worth more than the lighter weight, ground clearance and high pinion (which I know isn't as strong). Any other arguments either way?
These are my concerns:
-Is the added weight and loss of ground clearance of any significance? This is my main concern. I wheel in the northeast, mostly rock gardens and ledges and it can get slick with the mud. I dont want to be 'that guy' that just sits there spinning because of the heavy rig.
-The low pinion of the rear 60 (60/60 combo) is a disadvantage over the high pinion PR60 since I have a 2 door, little worried about pinion angles and drive shaft length.
-Width is a minor concern because of fender laws in New Hampshire but with some 5.26BS wheels they might be close enough.
I'm on the fence right now, and was wondering what your thoughts were? The cost isn't an issue since they are so close so I guess it comes down to whether the strength is worth more than the lighter weight, ground clearance and high pinion (which I know isn't as strong). Any other arguments either way?
Thanks for deciding to go with Dynatrac for your Jeep! Nice to have a situation like this where your two choices are pretty much win-win either way!
On your ground clearance point, You’re correct that you will not have as much ground clearance in the rear with the Pro 60 axle, but you are going to 37s, so the net difference will be a gain. In the front, the ProRock 60 has more ground clearance than a stock Dana 44, so you’re making a big gain there. And you are correct that a ProRock 60/Pro 60 combo will be heavier, than stock axles, but the weight is extremely low in the vehicle, so from a handling and off-roading standpoint, it really won’t be a negative.
Here’s what the choice really comes down to:
If ultimate ground clearance is your goal, the Serious Performance ProRock 44/60 combo is the way to go.
If ultimate strength is the goal, the Hard Core ProRock60/60 combo is your choice. The ProRock 44/60 is plenty durable for 37s, but stepping up to the ProRock 60/60 combo gives you much larger knuckles, balljoints and hubs in addition to the larger ring gear, differential, axleshafts and beefier housing. This is especially attractive if you’re thinking about an LS engine swap or other additions/modifications down the road.
Hope this helps guide your decision!
