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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Dynatrac Prorock 44

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Old 10-01-2015, 11:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jtphoto JK
Or get a D44HD housing from Mopar performance for $865 and just take everything out of you factory D44..
You still have to burn c gussets on as well as a tracbar bracket and lca skids or new brackets. Also most people cant set gears or weld so labor cost isn't included in that 865. Lastly those axles do not have castor correction which is a nice benefit
Old 10-01-2015, 08:31 PM
  #12  
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I had Nitro sleeves hammered in and a full Artec front armour kit installed on my Dana 44 for less then a grand, thats parts and labour. Significantly less then a PR44. I'd put my axle up against any PR44 out there. I do need choromly shafts though. Suspect thats whats gonna blow on mine first.
Old 10-02-2015, 03:44 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by tnt008
I had Nitro sleeves hammered in and a full Artec front armour kit installed on my Dana 44 for less then a grand, thats parts and labour. Significantly less then a PR44. I'd put my axle up against any PR44 out there. I do need choromly shafts though. Suspect thats whats gonna blow on mine first.
I had all that, plus RCVs and everything else you can think of. The ring and pinion blew up... The rest of the axle was beef though! Well, except the hubs and ball joints constantly failing.
Old 10-02-2015, 03:52 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
I had all that, plus RCVs and everything else you can think of. The ring and pinion blew up... The rest of the axle was beef though! Well, except the hubs and ball joints constantly failing.
I've heard RCVs are a bad idea for D44s for that exact reason. The R&P will blow instead of a shaft. Easier to swap a shaft on the trail vs. the R&P. Would you say that's true?
Old 10-02-2015, 04:20 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Stubicon
I've heard RCVs are a bad idea for D44s for that exact reason. The R&P will blow instead of a shaft. Easier to swap a shaft on the trail vs. the R&P. Would you say that's true?
I'd hope not since 99% of prorocks come with RCVs.
Old 10-02-2015, 04:25 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mistasparkl
...However, I don't see why you'd want to spend the cash on one if you already have a 44. Its stronger than a Rubi 44, but not 5k stronger. I'd say beef up your current 44, or save for a 60.
^^^^ this
Old 10-02-2015, 05:16 AM
  #17  
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If someone is not going to go larger than 37's and wants the castor correction the pr44 might make sense. 60's might be overkill in that case the jk44 pinion is beefy and the aftermarket housing also prevents the deflection that might be the cause of the gear failure.

There is no right answer only what your intended use is. The built Rubi 44 has a weight advantage over the pr44 and especially over the 60's. It also has better ground clearance that almost is a wash (1/2" or so) to a 60 on 40" tires. It's all about usage...

I'm running a fully built Rubi 44 in my daily driver/weekend warrior on toyo 37's. I wish I had done the pr44 instead of building my Rubi axle I would really like the castor correction. 4* castor is ok, but if I could run 6* it would be great. The steering is really nice at 80-90 with that extra castor.

Last edited by Biginboca; 10-02-2015 at 05:21 AM.
Old 10-02-2015, 05:39 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Biginboca
If someone is not going to go larger than 37's and wants the castor correction the pr44 might make sense. 60's might be overkill in that case the jk44 pinion is beefy and the aftermarket housing also prevents the deflection that might be the cause of the gear failure.

There is no right answer only what your intended use is. The built Rubi 44 has a weight advantage over the pr44 and especially over the 60's. It also has better ground clearance that almost is a wash (1/2" or so) to a 60 on 40" tires. It's all about usage...

I'm running a fully built Rubi 44 in my daily driver/weekend warrior on toyo 37's. I wish I had done the pr44 instead of building my Rubi axle I would really like the castor correction. 4* castor is ok, but if I could run 6* it would be great. The steering is really nice at 80-90 with that extra castor.
You are probably only looking at a few hundred dollars to have someone cut and rotate your Cs. A lot cheaper than buying a PR44. I know that in my area, I can get one side of my axle retubed for $300. That is a ton more work and includes the cost of the tube itself, which isn't cheap.
Old 10-02-2015, 06:05 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Stubicon

I've heard RCVs are a bad idea for D44s for that exact reason. The R&P will blow instead of a shaft. Easier to swap a shaft on the trail vs. the R&P. Would you say that's true?
My buddy and I both have the PR44 set up on 37's he's gone thru 2 RCV's and myself 1 fully covered by the lifetime warranty... R&P just fine
Old 10-02-2015, 06:13 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
You are probably only looking at a few hundred dollars to have someone cut and rotate your Cs. A lot cheaper than buying a PR44. I know that in my area, I can get one side of my axle retubed for $300. That is a ton more work and includes the cost of the tube itself, which isn't cheap.
It's already trussed and gusseted I think it'll be a real hassle. Most likely at some point I'll sell it and get a pr housing I think having the castor and lack of worry about ruining gears due to housing deflection is worth it. Dynatrac says they only ever had one instance of a blown r&p supposedly. I don't think I'll ever use my rig hard enough to *need* 60's as much as I want them, lol


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