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Dynatrac ProRock 44 to replace the 30 in front??

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Old 05-24-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Yeti
Let us know when you come up with something
x2 on that - really think a free-wheeling hub would help as the JK is my DD.
Old 05-24-2011, 10:41 AM
  #32  
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We just installed a PR 44 unlimited with Dynatrac's balljoints and could not be happier. We elected to go with ARB and 5:38's, with 4340 chromo 30 spline shafts for the internal's. Granted we are only on 35's now but we have plans to go bigger in the future (hopefully 40's). I want to build it once, not over and over again.

I have read about guys running the stock 30's on 37's and have seen 1 JKU on 40's with a stock 30. I think they are crazy, but to each is own. The questions is not if the 30 will break but when. We have a trip planned in July to run the rubicon and i do not want to be the guy that breaks on the trail. I want to be able to enjoy my wheeling and not have to worry about the front axle making it through or over a obstical. I have a new found confiendence in our Jeep with the new axle up front, and would be willingto get on the skinny pedal it if i need to, wether it be to get over a ledge, rock or get through a mud hole on the trail.

I know the PR 44 is a lot of coin, but when you see what you are getting and the confiedence that comes with it, it is well spent money. I looked at doing a super 30 kit but by the time you buy parts and install you are halfway to a PR 44. I think the PR should be on everyones list, even guys with a factory 44 front. Dynatrac has a great product and i would strongly encourage their axles to anyone.
Old 05-24-2011, 11:06 AM
  #33  
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I am currently saving up for a pr44. Should be able to afford it by fall, or I could just swipe one of my credit cards now hehehe... I look at it this way.. I recently came to discover that my D30 is bent - not to the naked eye, but somewhere, something is off as I am unable to get it properly aligned and my camber is off. So I figure, why spend all this hard earned cash beefing up a D30 when it will still be prone to breaking depending on how you hard I wheel? I am not a serious wheeler as of now, but in a few years I probably will be a lot more into it. For me it would involve straightening it on a frame machine, adding inner/outer sleeves, upgrades axle shafts, new gears, etc. I already have it gusseted, which I kind of regret since I'm going the dynatrac route anyway. When I regear in a few months it will be a fully built, ready to bolt in pr44 from northbridge with 4.88's along with gears/overhaul kit for the rear.. Do it right first time.. I like the feeling of confidence with reliability on the trail..

Last edited by XBlacky08X; 05-24-2011 at 11:10 AM.
Old 05-24-2011, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by XBlacky08X
I am currently saving up for a pr44. Should be able to afford it by fall, or I could just swipe one of my credit cards now hehehe... I look at it this way.. I recently came to discover that my D30 is bent - not to the naked eye, but somewhere, something is off as I am unable to get it properly aligned and my camber is off. So I figure, why spend all this hard earned cash beefing up a D30 when it will still be prone to breaking depending on how you hard I wheel? I am not a serious wheeler as of now, but in a few years I probably will be a lot more into it. For me it would involve straightening it on a frame machine, adding inner/outer sleeves, upgrades axle shafts, new gears, etc. I already have it gusseted, which I kind of regret since I'm going the dynatrac route anyway. When I regear in a few months it will be a fully built, ready to bolt in pr44 from northbridge with 4.88's along with gears/overhaul kit for the rear.. Do it right first time.. I like the feeling of confidence with reliability on the trail..
This is the message I try to pass on to our customers. Without a doubt, a PR 44 is more expensive than a polished 30. But, once you've gone to all of the expense of adding the good parts, especially if you aren't doing all of the labor yourself, the cost difference isn't that great. In the end, after all that time and effort you still have a 30. I certainly understand that building a 30 over time can be easier on a budget than doing a PR44, but the fact remains, IF you can handle it financially, it's a much better long term decision than building a 30.
Old 05-24-2011, 01:53 PM
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Well I did the pro rock 44 from Northridge 4x4 through Stan in Alberta. I got the 5:13 gears, ARB locker, greasable ball joints and rcv axles. roughly 5000$ plus tax. Had to pay 150 delivery. Not to bad in my opinion. I did not want to invest in the dana 30 and then do this down the road. I have had no problems at all . It works great. Considering I had the back done by Jim at rockspyder 4x4 and the front by northridge 4x4 , Having the pro's do the job and having everything work right off the bat is a great relief. You get what you pay for. Any one thinking about the prorock 44, it is a very good investment. I am sure some rubicon owners are jealous .
Old 05-24-2011, 02:19 PM
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Give Scott a call from dynatrac he gave me all the information and advice I needed to go the prorock 44 route. I just bought my first jeep 2011 2 Dr sport and was thinking about sleeving c gussets and chromoly shafts gearing and a Aussie locker in the front and throwing some 37s on it but after you figure cost and laber your not far off from a fully built pr44. I'm planning on ordering mine from northridge 4x4 pr44 unlimited 5.13 gears rcv shafts pro steer ball joints gonna reuse my factory knuckles for now and go with a Detroit locker. I'm also gonna do a Detroit in the rear with chromoly shafts and 5.13s I'm going to replace both drive shafts and go with about a 3in lift tube fenders and 37s. Sure its gonna take some money but I have no money invested in my jeep yet and it would benafit me more to do it right the first time. I beloved this is a great setup for the size tire I'm looking to run. Oh and I'm also planning on doing this in my back yard with a buddy of mine. I will have my pr44 ordered no later than summer maybe sooner if I can get more overtime
Old 05-24-2011, 07:13 PM
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prior to Moab I had a prorock44 unlimited put on along with Reid knuckles and re-using my RCV shafts, elocker and 5.13's. I was so impressed with the beef of this set up that I am now "going all the way" and trading out to 35 spline RCV's and the ARB. Now I have a sweet knuckle to knuckle RCV rubi 44 to sell and make the prorock cheaper. Much less money than a D60 and beef enough to handle 40's. my opinion: don't go over 5.13
Old 05-24-2011, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jctnt1
prior to Moab I had a prorock44 unlimited put on along with Reid knuckles and re-using my RCV shafts, elocker and 5.13's. I was so impressed with the beef of this set up that I am now "going all the way" and trading out to 35 spline RCV's and the ARB. Now I have a sweet knuckle to knuckle RCV rubi 44 to sell and make the prorock cheaper. Much less money than a D60 and beef enough to handle 40's. my opinion: don't go over 5.13
Just remember that when changing to the ARB and 35 sp RCVs you are ONLY increasing the strength of the locker. The 35 sp axles are NOT stronger. There are also issues with the 35 sp Rubi replacement ARB fitting a PR44 or Rubi housing. They can fit but some are a real pain.
Old 05-24-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac

Just remember that when changing to the ARB and 35 sp RCVs you are ONLY increasing the strength of the locker. The 35 sp axles are NOT stronger. There are also issues with the 35 sp Rubi replacement ARB fitting a PR44 or Rubi housing. They can fit but some are a real pain.
the rubi elocker was already starting to give me headaches not dissengaging properly. It's already be serviced twice for "issues". I'm not too pleased that ARB didn't do a 32 spline locker so I wouldn't have to spend a grand on new RCV's. But now I can sell off a fully built rubi44 knuckle to knuckle to pay for the extra costs. My JK is currently in the shop getting the upgrade, so far finding the correct inner seals have been the slow down.
Old 05-24-2011, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dynatrac
This is the message I try to pass on to our customers. Without a doubt, a PR 44 is more expensive than a polished 30. But, once you've gone to all of the expense of adding the good parts, especially if you aren't doing all of the labor yourself, the cost difference isn't that great. In the end, after all that time and effort you still have a 30. I certainly understand that building a 30 over time can be easier on a budget than doing a PR44, but the fact remains, IF you can handle it financially, it's a much better long term decision than building a 30.
Dynatrac - What is the difference between the RCV shafts and Chomoly w/u-joints? Also, what are the benefits of the Reid Racing knuckles? One other thing... Will a TrueTrac work the the unlimited? Thanks!


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