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EVO Enforcer 3" 35" Tires 20" wheels

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Old 01-06-2017, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Shockwave
Thank you very much. I am a super noob and trying to research and understand the anatomy of the jeep. Like drinking water from a fire house. 😁
But am excited to have a jeep I can trial on. Took my jeep out for the first time a month ago and it was a blast. And looking forward to be a part of the jeep community. So thank you for the warm welcome guys!


. Yes sorry.







I think I get it now. Drive shaft is running the length of the jeep and axle runs width.

I think drive shaft go according to your axle size. So say I bought the driveshaft for the d30. Can I just upgrade a small part to fit the new 44? Or will I have to completely buy an new shaft?

I see a 44 on eBay for $1500. I may try to get one of those or search a junk yard later.

Ok so I'll do the 4.56 for the gears. Is there a name brand that you guys prefer?









Ok thank you 😄. I'm planning to get fuel assault 18x9. But want to get all the lift and shafts done first. This hobby is super expensive as you guys know.





Is the Reel brand a good one? Their site doesn't allow a selection for the Dana 30. But some stores say it will fit my jeep. Can I get the Reel OE style one? Is that an upgrade to the OEM one?

Thanks a million guys! Super cool of you all.
Dana 30 and 44 driveshafts are interchangeable, you wouldn't need to buy a new one if you get a front 44. When you look at driveshafts you'll probably see 1310 and 1350, which refers to the strength/size of the u joints. 1310 is fine for 35 inch tires, everyone has a different used for the jeep someone tell you to get 1350 because they're stronger, but realistically look at how you use your jeep. I have been using a JE Reel 1310 front driveshaft for 33,000 miles with no issues at all.
Old 01-06-2017, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jeepfan30
Dana 30 and 44 driveshafts are interchangeable, you wouldn't need to buy a new one if you get a front 44. When you look at driveshafts you'll probably see 1310 and 1350, which refers to the strength/size of the u joints. 1310 is fine for 35 inch tires, everyone has a different used for the jeep someone tell you to get 1350 because they're stronger, but realistically look at how you use your jeep. I have been using a JE Reel 1310 front driveshaft for 33,000 miles with no issues at all.
Thank you so much bro! You've been a huge help.

So from all the info above. I can hold off on the Dana 44 until I can afford it. You seem to have made yours last a good amount.

The reel 1310, every shop I look at says it won't fix my Jeep. Can you tell me where you bought yours please?

Last edited by Shockwave; 01-06-2017 at 09:36 AM.
Old 01-06-2017, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Shockwave
Thank you very much. I am a super noob and trying to research and understand the anatomy of the jeep. Like drinking water from a fire house. 😁
But am excited to have a jeep I can trial on. Took my jeep out for the first time a month ago and it was a blast. And looking forward to be a part of the jeep community. So thank you for the warm welcome guys!


Ok thank you 😄. I'm planning to get fuel assault 18x9. But want to get all the lift and shafts done first. This hobby is super expensive as you guys know.

Thanks a million guys! Super cool of you all.
No problem at all. We were all new at this at one time.
FIRE HOSE LOL
The Jeep hobby is an absolute blast.
Fuel wheels are decent but may I ask why you want 18's? 17's would be cheaper and have a bigger variety of sizes for tires.



Originally Posted by Shockwave
I think I get it now. Drive shaft is running the length of the jeep and axle runs width.
Yeah your drive shafts go from your transfer case to your axles. The axles transfer that power to your tires.



Originally Posted by Shockwave
I think drive shaft go according to your axle size. So say I bought the driveshaft for the d30. Can I just upgrade a small part to fit the new 44? Or will I have to completely buy an new shaft?
You can very well upgrade your axle and keep the same drive shaft. I ordered my Prorock 44 with a 1310 yoke so that my driveshaft would match up to my 1310 driveshaft.



Originally Posted by Shockwave
I see a 44 on eBay for $1500. I may try to get one of those or search a junk yard later.
I would not worry about upgrading your axle right now. Like stated above a Dana 30 should work fine for your purposes. Just beef it up with sleeves and c gussets



Originally Posted by Shockwave
Ok so I'll do the 4.56 for the gears. Is there a name brand that you guys prefer?
Since you have the 3.8 I would actually go with 4.88's especially if you do a lot of town driving. Everyone has their preference on brand. I would just go with whoever your shop has an account with. Regearing is not something people usually do themselves.

The regear can also wait until after you upgrade everything else if you are battling funding issues. You can drive on 35's with the stock gears it'll just be a little sluggish. I know, I did it for 4 years.



Originally Posted by Shockwave
So from all the info above. I can hold off on the Dana 44 until I can afford it. You seem to have made yours last a good amount.
Mine lasted me 4 years of wheeling about once a month with 35's. All I did was add C gussets.




Originally Posted by Shockwave
Is the Reel brand a good one? Their site doesn't allow a selection for the Dana 30. But some stores say it will fit my jeep. Can I get the Reel OE style one? Is that an upgrade to the OEM one?
JE REEL is quality. I actually have Adams Driveshafts on my Jeep because that is who Northridge4x4.com prefers. Most of these driveshaft parts are made in the same factory and then stamped with different names. I would just suggest you stick to JE REEL, Adams, Tom Woods, or Coast.



Originally Posted by Shockwave
The reel 1310, every shop I look at says it won't fix my Jeep. Is this not true?
What do you mean fix? I have a 1310 on mine and it works fine



Originally Posted by Shockwave
As far a gears go. Can the gears transfer over from a 30 to 44?
The gears can NOT transfer from a Dana 30 to a 44. So that would be money spent twice if you did decide to upgrade down the line. Which is why I waited so long to regear my own Jeep.
Old 01-06-2017, 12:16 PM
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Yea, what are you referring to about fixing the driveshaft? Your stock one will work, unless you disconnect your sway bar links and then the extra flex will cause your front driveshaft to contact your exhaust. This is the main reason people get an aftermarket front driveshaft, they are smaller in diameter and won't contact the exhaust.

Last edited by jeepfan30; 01-06-2017 at 12:19 PM.
Old 01-06-2017, 12:54 PM
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Thank you guys for all the great help! 😃.

I meant fit not "fix". But I now found the 1310 that will fit my jeep.

I want 18" because I feel like its a good ratio of wheel and side wall.

Fuel are ok? Are there better wheels?

Ok so it seems I will do it this way.

Lift ☑️
Shocks ☑️
Drive shaft ☑️
Wheels tires ☑️
Gussets ☑️ (Are the evo ones good for $60?)

Then as money permits
Gears 4.88
Axle (Dana 44) can't really afford to get 60 or higher ends ones.

Last edited by Shockwave; 01-06-2017 at 12:57 PM.
Old 01-06-2017, 05:52 PM
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Generally you run 17's with 35's. You'll save a little bit on tires too.

The evo gussets are good. The advantage to them over others is they do the top and bottom. The Teraflex ones, for example, only gusset the top of the C
Old 01-07-2017, 04:11 PM
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Thank you very much. This is getting really fun.
Old 01-10-2017, 10:42 AM
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Think I'm going to go with the Adams front and rear driveshafts 1310.

I'm going to do all this before my wheels and tires. It will still be ok to drive? I know it will look strange but hoping it's still drivable.
Old 01-13-2017, 04:59 AM
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Yep, it will drive fine as long as you get your caster set after the lift. If you are getting a rear driveshaft you MIGHT need rear upper arms to set the pinion angle. Mine seems to be fine without rear uppers though, but every JK is different.



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