SuperDave07

So I want to throw a set of 37's under my 2010 JK Sport and instead of asking what all I need, I figured I would post up my planned mods and get your opinions and advice. My current modifications are in my signature but I'll copy it here as well. The only thing not listed below are the hubs and ball joints I just replaced last week:

RockKrawler 2.5" Max Travel
Bilstein 5100's
BFG A/T KO 315/75/16's
Pro Comp XTreme 16"s
JCR Dagger Stubby Front
JCR Crusader Rear
Mile Marker SE9500C
ACE Rock Rails
Rubi Rails
Superchips Flashpaq
Tatton Front Driveshaft
Adam's Rear Driveshaft
Artec Gussets
Nitro Sleeves
5.13 Gears
Eaton E-Lockers F&R
PSC Diff Covers F&R
SPOD
PSC Crusher Flares F&R
Teraflex Tie Rod & Drag Link

Given what I've already got on my Jeep, I figured I would swap the 2.5" RK springs for their newer triple rate 3.5" springs along with their rear upper control arms to re/center the rear axle in the wheel well. I'm planning on having to trim the rear pinch seams and Rubi rails to make some clearance but other than that maybe add the Redneck Ram hydro assist to help out slow speed steering and maybe call it good? I don't wheel the thing very often anymore and even when I do I'm not very hard on it. It's mainly trails rather than hard rock crawling and flexing and due to work, school, and family I only get the chance maybe once a month if that. It's mainly a daily driver vehicle that sees fairly light off road duty every now and then. So let's hear your opinions considering everything together. Thanks.

phljeeper

The only add I can see missing in your list is a way to shift the rear axle back a bit. The max travel kit includes lower arms but not upper. Adding rear uppers and possibly replacing the rear lowers with the arms designed for their stretch kit would give you better angles in the rear and better centering in the wheel well.

jedg

First, cool to see someone from Fort Bragg on here. I'm stationed there and deployed right now.

Second, I don't see you needing hydro assist with what you have and what you say you do with your rig. I run hydro assist and the only time it's really come in necessary is rock crawling. Then it's useful.

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EDIT >>> Dang.. didn't see the 37s bit. Stay with 35s and skip the hydro assist... if you insist on 37s, then you WILL need the hydro assist. Given what you've said you'll do with it, 37s will be a pain. The closest rock crawling is URE and 35s will easily handle all the obstacles there >>>>>


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That said, I don't have ANY issues with the wind pushing the direction of the vehicle around anymore at highway speed.

I hope to see you around when I redeploy. Several of us go to URE often and it's good times.

TheDirtman

I would keep it on 35's and save the money, since you don't wheel it why put the big rubber on?

larry0071

I'd forget the sleeves (I'm not a fan of internal and non integral sleeves. Increasing the OD with plug welded outer clam-shell sleeves would be a much better band aid).

You should really add the West Texas Off-Road Redneck Ram Assist to your list. You'll hate 37" tires and no steering assist unless you only drive on basic dirt trails. And if that is the case, why are we talking about 37" tires?

BoraBora

Rear uppers adjust pinion angle. Rear lowers position the axle in the wheel well.

Definitely hydro assist.

IMO 37's are going to give you headaches, especially since you don't need them.

Blizz

Adding hydro for 37s is a smart move. But I've heard of teraflex tie rods bending because of the ram. There are ways to prevent this, but it's something to be aware of when setting up your assist.

SuperDave07

Right, I already have rear lower control arms from RK but factory uppers. I was intending on getting RK's rear uppers also to help center the axle in the wheel well.

Yeah I've heard of guys going up to URE and always having a good time. I've been saying I want to go up that way for about two years now but have yet to go with deployment, school, and family. Not much at Bragg itself other than the trails on post.

That has crossed my mind, just stick with 35's and save the time and money upgrading. But then the devil on the other shoulder whispers when/if I do get the chance to go to URE then it'd be nice to have those upgrades.

The sleeves are already in, have been for over a year now. As for the WTOR Redneck Ram kit, that's actually the cactus kit I referenced in my original post to help steer the big tires at slow speeds.

Hmmm... I guess I've been misunderstood, I've always been of the impression that it was the other way around. After looking at RK's website, they're description for rear uppers states "provides pinion adjustment" and for the rear lowers, "provides pinion/caster adjustment" so.....? I already have rear lowers, they came with my kit so if those are the ones that recenter the axle then I should be good right?

I appreciate you mentioning that as I haven't heard of this. I'll keep that in mind when setting things up and worst case, the teraflex bits have a lifetime warranty on them if they get boogered up.

phljeeper

I would give RK a call about the rear arms. I believe (based on past forum post that I can't seem to find in a quick search) the arm length for the rear lowers is different if you have rear uppers. I know they are adjustable but I think you need to set the lower shorter than it will go (with the mid arm that comes with the max travel kit) to properly space and angle the rear when you add uppers. I had a max travel kit on my prior jeep and when I talked to RK about adding rear uppers they recommended I change the rear lowers that came in the kit for a pair that were shorter.

BoraBora

Step 1: adjust rear lowers for where you want the axle positioned in the wheel well
Step 2: adjust rear uppers for proper pinion angle

You'll want to run both. I didn't....and my rear driveshaft blew out 5k miles later on a 3.5" lift.

RK rear lowers are indeed a little too long. This leads to the rear coil springs bowing. Yeah, you can run those dinky wedges...or just buy new Artec coil perches for $65 and burn them on.