Help Me Choose Long Arms (JKU)
10-27-2016, 11:04 AM
#11
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
You can use metal cloak joints on a long arm. The fact I broke one of their early joints is why the the myth of not running on a long arm started. Their new design with the forged end works fine and I run them. I would run Johnny joints or ballistic joints over the RK joints. Johnny joints for cost and availability of replacement parts and the ballistic is a design that rock krawler basically copied in their new joint. I feel the ballistic joint has a better fit and finish. I would not run Teraflex long arms as the difference in lengths of the upper and lower links is too much an creates pinion angle issues when you flex it out. I prefer a 4 link on the rear as well and that JKU that had the rear 3 link failure was due to a poor bridge design and not the fact it was a 3 link. Over all build dictates though and depends on how much you want to get into it with a fuel cell and frame cutting. I would think you are going to have a hard time running 16" travel shocks on a bolt on long arm kit. If you want to optimize the performance of the long arm and long travel you really are better off doing a custom suspension, if you just want to brag about running a long arm and long travel shocks but don't care about how they perform then just buy a Rough Country or Rubicon express long arm and save the cash.
10-27-2016, 11:46 AM
#12
JK Jedi
That is basically the design that RK uses with the threaded race that can be tightened. They are machined different is why they look different. The ballistic pro joint may be closer to what the RK joint looks like and uses the same design although it uses bronze bearing surface instead the softer compound used on their standard joint. They are way more expensive as well.
10-27-2016, 01:02 PM
#13
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Townsend
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Long Arms
Many options available. We've installed Teraflex, Synergy, TnT Customs here at the shop and have seen great results. The TnT long arm is a 3 link rear set up. Zero issues with both the Teraflex as well as the Synergy long arm kits. Synergy is nice because the Dual Durometer bushings are now offered with the long arms and of course on vehicle adjustment is an added bonus.
Also depends on whether or not you can or want to weld. Lots of long arm kits on the market are bolt on while others are weld on, and some allow you to bolt on or weld on.
We have not installed a Rock Krawler long arm kit so I can't speak for that but I don't think you could go wrong with Tera or Synergy. Have not installed EVO either but have had Jeeps on the lift with EVO long arms installed and have also seen what EVO equipped JKU's can do on the trail. Amazing!
Also depends on whether or not you can or want to weld. Lots of long arm kits on the market are bolt on while others are weld on, and some allow you to bolt on or weld on.
We have not installed a Rock Krawler long arm kit so I can't speak for that but I don't think you could go wrong with Tera or Synergy. Have not installed EVO either but have had Jeeps on the lift with EVO long arms installed and have also seen what EVO equipped JKU's can do on the trail. Amazing!
10-27-2016, 02:11 PM
#14
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
11-01-2016, 10:44 PM
#16
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: oceanside, ca
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I have the RK 3 link long arm coil over kit (5.5"). It is my daily driver, and I couldn't be happier. It was a pretty intense install. Luckily I have a neighbor who is a certified aircraft welder so that made life better. I did the entire lift in my garage on a 5ton jack and jack stands. Front took me about 3 days. Rear took me two days. To me the biggest draw back is adjustment. To adjust arms or track bars you have to remove the end and adjust. Other than that this kit is beefy, and rides great daily driving. If you have questions hit me up.
11-01-2016, 11:12 PM
#17
JK Freak
I'm just going to throw in my 2 cents on the Metalcloak joints. I have over 4 years on mine and the bushing still look great. I greased them about 2 years after I had them and haven't touched them since.
And they have been driven to ohv parks all over the U.S, wheeled and then driven back home.
And they have been driven to ohv parks all over the U.S, wheeled and then driven back home.
11-02-2016, 05:46 AM
#18
JK Junkie
I made my own long arms out of 2"x.250" DOM and used MC joints. No regrets other than I have insanely heavy 1 ton axles and would be curious to see how it would drive with a solid joint on one end. I'm a fan of the MC zinc coating (very cool chemical reaction that eats rust if it starts). Cadmium is better, but not legal in CA so MC can't use it. Legal in MI though, so I had my arms dipped in it. They are full of rock rash for well over a year, and virtually no rust to speak of.
Downside to Synergy's new DDB joint is that it only comes in one thread direction. I'm not a fan of the double adjuster for anyone doing legit wheeling.
Any long arms I make now are out of 2" solid 7075 and run either RK joints, Johnny Joints, or the Synergy DDB on one end and a solid joint on the other.
Downside to Synergy's new DDB joint is that it only comes in one thread direction. I'm not a fan of the double adjuster for anyone doing legit wheeling.
Any long arms I make now are out of 2" solid 7075 and run either RK joints, Johnny Joints, or the Synergy DDB on one end and a solid joint on the other.
11-02-2016, 09:20 AM
#19
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I made my own long arms out of 2"x.250" DOM and used MC joints. No regrets other than I have insanely heavy 1 ton axles and would be curious to see how it would drive with a solid joint on one end. I'm a fan of the MC zinc coating (very cool chemical reaction that eats rust if it starts). Cadmium is better, but not legal in CA so MC can't use it. Legal in MI though, so I had my arms dipped in it. They are full of rock rash for well over a year, and virtually no rust to speak of. Downside to Synergy's new DDB joint is that it only comes in one thread direction. I'm not a fan of the double adjuster for anyone doing legit wheeling. Any long arms I make now are out of 2" solid 7075 and run either RK joints, Johnny Joints, or the Synergy DDB on one end and a solid joint on the other.
Last edited by gnarly_mike; 11-02-2016 at 10:20 AM.
11-02-2016, 02:26 PM
#20
JK Junkie
I was about to throw a line out for any triangulated setups. I wish I could make my own and do double triangulated on both ends but idk where to even begin. It's also my DD so I would have it down for a good while most likely as I built it. I am trying to have the least downtime possible. Do you have any issues with having straight arms without bends in them? Is this just a selling point? That is a big reason I wouldn't make my own, because I don't have a tube bender. Or know anyone who does. I'd have to pay for it to be done. I can weld and cut and tap threads but not bend. I'd like to hear more about how you want about doing it. The measuring and geometry verification would be something I wouldn't really know what do to on either. The fact I'm trying to get the arms done before my final tire size and axle choices are on complicates things. Any info/help would be appreciated by me and I'm sure the other forum members.
Straight arms are fine and I prefer them. You won't find a rock bouncer or Ultra4 with bent arms. Only thing it really does is weaken the link. Making your own arms is as easy as measuring the length you need and then buying the joints you want and then the links. Use solid 7075 and don't look back. You can buy the brackets for a good price from Synergy. There is no magic. I prefer 4 link rear (rather than 3 link). Front is up to you, but definitely don't count on the stock passenger axle side upper bracket if you 3 link it. If you have a 2012+ JK, it is easier to 3 link the front with a long arm, otherwise you have the exhaust trumpet to deal with (run the 3rd link on the passenger side). Just weld on a heavy duty axle side upper bracket.