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Help Upgrading to 37"s

Old 02-19-2017, 03:41 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by DJ1
Assuming you don't want to spend the extra $$ to upgrade a Synergy tie rod to a Fusion or similar, it looks like the other option is positioning the ram the opposite direction towards the knuckle....

Pic from JKO....

Attachment 666907
I wonder how thick of a cover out would take to support the ram. I'd guess if you've already got the Spidertrax hi9 housing that it doesn't matter but with our axles having an actual cover, we may need something closer to the RuffStuff cover that's all solid.
Old 02-19-2017, 04:14 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
I wonder how thick of a cover out would take to support the ram. I'd guess if you've already got the Spidertrax hi9 housing that it doesn't matter but with our axles having an actual cover, we may need something closer to the RuffStuff cover that's all solid.

Not sure on the thickness of the cover but I know it's been done before as I've seen them.

"covers with ram tabs welded on"
---> https://www.google.com/search?q=cove...a&channel=fflb

images...
---> https://www.google.com/search?q=cove...w=1182&bih=659


* To play it safe, I would probably just do the RuffStuff cover @ $115 if going that route but if guys are doing fine with just the misalignment boots @ $10-$15 and the tie rod is holding up, then it beats shelling the extra cash for a whole new tie rod. It looks like guys like Ballistic Fab will even weld the tabs on for additional cost. Decisions....


The other option is welding the tabs to the axle tube instead of the cover....




.

Last edited by DJ1; 02-19-2017 at 04:58 PM.
Old 02-21-2017, 07:03 PM
  #53  
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Default 2.5 shocks w 37s

Is everyone running 2.5 shocks with their 37s?

My shop is recommending them based on my feedback relative to how the jeep handles with the extra weight - I have a slight shimmy on rough roads that can lead to bump steer if I hit a series of bumps. All my suspension is upgraded and checks out fine. Will 2.5 shocks improve my ride? Fox or king?

I'm running 5100s now.

Last edited by Captaintight; 02-21-2017 at 07:21 PM.
Old 02-21-2017, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BOWICON
Going to 37's is not just changing the tires and lift. it seems like once you go over 35's you will have to do many changes in order to compensate for the larger tires and weight that comes with them. Everything you mentioned is needed and it would be smart to focus on the axles and gears before worrying about the coilovers (unless you have a lot of money set aside). One pointer I will give you is that being apart of the process when it comes to building your jeep can be extremely helpful. One, you don't want to be that guy that has no clue what is going on under your jeep because you took a back seat when it was being built. Secondly, all the work that needs to be done is a great learning experience and an opportunity to learn more skills when it comes to jeeps.

I recommend going with 35's for now and build up the axles, driveline, gears, etc. Once that is done, you can easily slide on some 37's and not have to worry about breaking stuff.
I agree with all this. Be methodical with your build and take a hands on approach with some friends who are jeepers. I saved and took over two years to even start my build and still made mistakes. Due to the fact i work 60-70 hrs a week I had a shop do my work. Ive spent as much fixing their screwups with my friends then if i would have just done it myself. I suggest Axles and gears first and work up from there. plan it do it yourself and theres plenty of stuff on here to help you.When dealing with large tires try not to skip too many details or you'll be putting more money in it later that could go to something else.
Old 02-22-2017, 05:12 AM
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For you guys running that Synergy TR with low misalignment boots, Jedg and Rebar-7, can you explain how those boots keep crap out of the joint? I tried those back when I first put the Synergy TR on (without any assist) and after a couple wheelin' trips seems like I had a lot of junk getting down in there. Do you guys just pump it full of grease since it doesn't really seal around the TRE stud? I ended up taking them off and putting the regular ole POS synergy boots back on. Getting to the point of doing some sort of assist though, and going to be an issue I need to re-address.
Old 02-22-2017, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
For you guys running that Synergy TR with low misalignment boots, Jedg and Rebar-7, can you explain how those boots keep crap out of the joint? I tried those back when I first put the Synergy TR on (without any assist) and after a couple wheelin' trips seems like I had a lot of junk getting down in there. Do you guys just pump it full of grease since it doesn't really seal around the TRE stud? I ended up taking them off and putting the regular ole POS synergy boots back on. Getting to the point of doing some sort of assist though, and going to be an issue I need to re-address.
Yes they don't seal as well and yes you just keep pumping fresh grease in to make up for the bad sealing. Also if you wheel more rocks (where assist would be needed) and less mud (where it wouldn't be needed) then that helps them stay clean. I'll admit I was surprised how badly they seal when I installed them.

Synergy needs to come out with a dual durometer misalignment boot that has a soft sealing area and a hard misalignment area lol
Old 02-22-2017, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Biginboca
Yes they don't seal as well and yes you just keep pumping fresh grease in to make up for the bad sealing. Also if you wheel more rocks (where assist would be needed) and less mud (where it wouldn't be needed) then that helps them stay clean. I'll admit I was surprised how badly they seal when I installed them. Synergy needs to come out with a dual durometer misalignment boot that has a soft sealing area and a hard misalignment area lol
They are coming out with a new anti flop joint similar to metalcloak I believe
Old 02-22-2017, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Monte417
They are coming out with a new anti flop joint similar to metalcloak I believe

That's what it sounds like on that JKO thread....



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Old 02-23-2017, 09:29 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
I wonder how thick of a cover out would take to support the ram. I'd guess if you've already got the Spidertrax hi9 housing that it doesn't matter but with our axles having an actual cover, we may need something closer to the RuffStuff cover that's all solid.
I run mine on a 3/8. Problem isnt the thickness its keeping the seal with all the stress on the cover. Never seem to stay sealed great no matter the cover.
Old 02-23-2017, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Maertz
I run mine on a 3/8. Problem isnt the thickness its keeping the seal with all the stress on the cover. Never seem to stay sealed great no matter the cover.

That's good to know. I would have never thought of that happening but it makes perfect sense....


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