How to install a kill switch in a 2012 or newer?
02-25-2015, 10:48 AM
#51
JK Freak
I would imagine you can do it the same as '07-'10 JKs? There are a bunch of cheap kits and you splice in under the hood, into the attachment that goes to the distributor cap. Really simple.
Do you know how they are being stolen? I thought they needed the chip with the key in order to even run?
Do you know how they are being stolen? I thought they needed the chip with the key in order to even run?
Last edited by aermotor; 02-25-2015 at 11:03 AM.
02-25-2015, 11:36 AM
#52
Agree. The way I see it is if I did it myself, let's just say $130 in parts but 4-5 hours planning/labor. If we tie a cost to labor/time spent that's another $120-150 @ $30/hr. So total it would be around $250-$280. I'm actually giving myself a deal here because I know my time is worth more than $30/hr 
The difference from the RAVELCO which is $423 everything installed plus tax - $250 = approximately $200 give or take.
So if I can save $10 off my insurance per month just by having the RAVELCO installed instead, that's already $120 over the course of just the first year. So I'm guessing 1 year to 18 months it'll pay itself off given these ballpark guesstimates....
The difference from the RAVELCO which is $423 everything installed plus tax - $250 = approximately $200 give or take.
So if I can save $10 off my insurance per month just by having the RAVELCO installed instead, that's already $120 over the course of just the first year. So I'm guessing 1 year to 18 months it'll pay itself off given these ballpark guesstimates....
02-25-2015, 04:01 PM
#53
JK Junkie
no bare bones
Maybe I'm not following you 
Does your keyfob have the panic button on it? If so, when you press it does it go in panic mode aka horn blaring and hazards blinking?
By "audio" indication I'm talking about the Jeep blaring it's horn off as the alarm gets triggered....
edit: reading the rest of your post, maybe if you have manual door locks, windows, etc. then I guess you guys don't have the factory alarm with the audio indication I'm not sure. Can others with bare boned rigs confirm?
Does your keyfob have the panic button on it? If so, when you press it does it go in panic mode aka horn blaring and hazards blinking?
By "audio" indication I'm talking about the Jeep blaring it's horn off as the alarm gets triggered....
edit: reading the rest of your post, maybe if you have manual door locks, windows, etc. then I guess you guys don't have the factory alarm with the audio indication
I'm not sure. Can others with bare boned rigs confirm?i have no fob ( no blinking or horns ) just a key . thats why i might be able to use this type http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pc...FUUQ7AodXBcA3g
if my battery wire can be broken with out issue to ecu
02-25-2015, 05:20 PM
#54
JK Enthusiast
Alright, just looking at this thread and it got me thinking. Somebody chime in if Im way off base here but it seems straight forward.
1) disconnect your battery.
2) grab your multimeter and set it to OHMs
3) look for a wire bundle around the plastic nonsense on your steering column
4) find where there is the garbage plastic wire harness connectors are and disconnect
5) with your multimeter, test each wire while you are have the key to the start position (you may need a second set of hands)
6) when you hit around 0 ohms thats the wire you are going to want to throw a toggle switch on and hide where ever you want it. Every other wire should read OL, don't use those ones.
with the switch off you would still get juice to run the radio and what not, it would just disrupt the signal to the starter solenoid to prevent it from cranking... is just my guess.
Let me go back to step 5... you will want to test from one position on the connector (for example male side to female) to the other. You aren't looking for a ground, you are looking for continuity for the wire that is telling the solenoid to crank the starter. With the switch that you install you are breaking that continuity (with the switch off) so it won't start.
It feels right... course I have been wrong a time or two before.
1) disconnect your battery.
2) grab your multimeter and set it to OHMs
3) look for a wire bundle around the plastic nonsense on your steering column
4) find where there is the garbage plastic wire harness connectors are and disconnect
5) with your multimeter, test each wire while you are have the key to the start position (you may need a second set of hands)
6) when you hit around 0 ohms thats the wire you are going to want to throw a toggle switch on and hide where ever you want it. Every other wire should read OL, don't use those ones.
with the switch off you would still get juice to run the radio and what not, it would just disrupt the signal to the starter solenoid to prevent it from cranking... is just my guess.
Let me go back to step 5... you will want to test from one position on the connector (for example male side to female) to the other. You aren't looking for a ground, you are looking for continuity for the wire that is telling the solenoid to crank the starter. With the switch that you install you are breaking that continuity (with the switch off) so it won't start.
It feels right... course I have been wrong a time or two before.
Last edited by chemlight_ninja; 02-25-2015 at 05:26 PM. Reason: better description
02-25-2015, 07:11 PM
#55
i have no fob ( no blinking or horns ) just a key . thats why i might be able to use this type http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pc...FUUQ7AodXBcA3g
if my battery wire can be broken with out issue to ecu
if my battery wire can be broken with out issue to ecu
It would be just like your battery dying and then jump starting it again which doesn't screw up your ecu....
02-25-2015, 07:14 PM
#56
02-25-2015, 08:07 PM
#57
JK Enthusiast
Alright, just looking at this thread and it got me thinking. Somebody chime in if Im way off base here but it seems straight forward.
1) disconnect your battery.
2) grab your multimeter and set it to OHMs
3) look for a wire bundle around the plastic nonsense on your steering column
4) find where there is the garbage plastic wire harness connectors are and disconnect
5) with your multimeter, test each wire while you are have the key to the start position (you may need a second set of hands)
6) when you hit around 0 ohms thats the wire you are going to want to throw a toggle switch on and hide where ever you want it. Every other wire should read OL, don't use those ones.
with the switch off you would still get juice to run the radio and what not, it would just disrupt the signal to the starter solenoid to prevent it from cranking... is just my guess.
Let me go back to step 5... you will want to test from one position on the connector (for example male side to female) to the other. You aren't looking for a ground, you are looking for continuity for the wire that is telling the solenoid to crank the starter. With the switch that you install you are breaking that continuity (with the switch off) so it won't start.
It feels right... course I have been wrong a time or two before.
1) disconnect your battery.
2) grab your multimeter and set it to OHMs
3) look for a wire bundle around the plastic nonsense on your steering column
4) find where there is the garbage plastic wire harness connectors are and disconnect
5) with your multimeter, test each wire while you are have the key to the start position (you may need a second set of hands)
6) when you hit around 0 ohms thats the wire you are going to want to throw a toggle switch on and hide where ever you want it. Every other wire should read OL, don't use those ones.
with the switch off you would still get juice to run the radio and what not, it would just disrupt the signal to the starter solenoid to prevent it from cranking... is just my guess.
Let me go back to step 5... you will want to test from one position on the connector (for example male side to female) to the other. You aren't looking for a ground, you are looking for continuity for the wire that is telling the solenoid to crank the starter. With the switch that you install you are breaking that continuity (with the switch off) so it won't start.
It feels right... course I have been wrong a time or two before.
Figure out which of these wires is the correct one and you've got a winner
Mopar Connection Repair Kit
02-25-2015, 08:16 PM
#58
02-25-2015, 08:23 PM
#59
02-26-2015, 06:04 AM
#60
JK Enthusiast
So every time you are going to start your car you are going to open the door, unlatch the hood, open hood, turn switch, close hood, get in drivers seat and start your car? Sounds like a lot of work to me. Or it sounds like I would be like... nah I'm not turning it off this time don't want to get under my hood. Then whats the point of having it if I'm not going to use it.