Insurance/Body Shop Game. Repair with aftermarket parts?
10-02-2015, 08:53 PM
#21
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
So can the shop purchase a cheaper axle off eBay or somewhere with or without a return policy, measure it, verify it's structurally sound and measures out correctly, then not worry about needing it to be warrantied? Since Texas law states that I essentially get to choose the part supplier and part condition and brand of part?
I want to keep that price down as low as possible if I'm going to have a good shot of squeezing in the RK/Fox into the mix without eating into their estimated labor costs.
I feel like if they have an estimate for the axle at $4400ish, adding $2495 for X factor mid/fox reservoirs is going to maybe cut in to their estimated labor costs based upon the man hours they estimated into the supplement costs.
Can I waive the shop warranty for suspension work? Is that going to somehow cause a conflict with insurance compensating them?
I am certain that for the body work, the shop didn't begin work until they got the check written on-site by the adjuster. Is it safe to assume it works the same way with the suspension?
I feel that the shop wouldn't want to do the work, replace parts, THEN go to the insurance for the compensation, because the insurance could start claiming that the shop spent an greater amount than was needed, and try to not pay them in full for the replacement parts/labor.
That, along with the fact that they wrote the check for body work already, leads me to believe that the insurance company will write the check before the work begins or is completed. What I'm striving for kind of would hinge upon how this process works.
If they write the check beforehand, and the shop begins work based upon the approved amount, like I'm being led to believe, then theoretically I would only have the shop to worry about. As long as I stayed under a certain cost for the parts and labor, it shouldn't matter if they are made of gold, or are used OEM parts, correct?
That is why I would like them to use the cheapest d30 assembly they can find. I am not worried about their suspension work being warrantied because there is nothing they can do that I cannot also do myself suspension wise. My dad has pretty much any tools I would ever need and has a shop press, etc.
And if the insurance cuts the check prior to the work being done, they wouldn't really be able to deny the replacement parts, repairs, or repair costs as a result of me waiving the warranty by the shop on the suspension work.
I want to keep that price down as low as possible if I'm going to have a good shot of squeezing in the RK/Fox into the mix without eating into their estimated labor costs.
I feel like if they have an estimate for the axle at $4400ish, adding $2495 for X factor mid/fox reservoirs is going to maybe cut in to their estimated labor costs based upon the man hours they estimated into the supplement costs.
Can I waive the shop warranty for suspension work? Is that going to somehow cause a conflict with insurance compensating them?
I am certain that for the body work, the shop didn't begin work until they got the check written on-site by the adjuster. Is it safe to assume it works the same way with the suspension?
I feel that the shop wouldn't want to do the work, replace parts, THEN go to the insurance for the compensation, because the insurance could start claiming that the shop spent an greater amount than was needed, and try to not pay them in full for the replacement parts/labor.
That, along with the fact that they wrote the check for body work already, leads me to believe that the insurance company will write the check before the work begins or is completed. What I'm striving for kind of would hinge upon how this process works.
If they write the check beforehand, and the shop begins work based upon the approved amount, like I'm being led to believe, then theoretically I would only have the shop to worry about. As long as I stayed under a certain cost for the parts and labor, it shouldn't matter if they are made of gold, or are used OEM parts, correct?
That is why I would like them to use the cheapest d30 assembly they can find. I am not worried about their suspension work being warrantied because there is nothing they can do that I cannot also do myself suspension wise. My dad has pretty much any tools I would ever need and has a shop press, etc.
And if the insurance cuts the check prior to the work being done, they wouldn't really be able to deny the replacement parts, repairs, or repair costs as a result of me waiving the warranty by the shop on the suspension work.
10-02-2015, 09:09 PM
#22
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I'm under the impression that because it is not one of their two local "recommended body shops" that the adjuster is going to write the check beforehand, since it's at a shop of my choice.
According to the internet, each insurer is different. I am led to believe based on what's already happened, that my geico adjuster here in Texas is authorized to immediately write the check prior to the repair process after he approves the amount estimated by the shop. He told me on the phone that he was writing them the supplemental check to replace my tailgate last Tuesday when he went to the shop to approve their estimate.
So if I'm lucky, he will go approve the $9100, and I can specify what parts to be purchased with that cost, and pay whatever extra repair cost myself that may arise as a result of me specifying the RK kit and possibly running into their approved labor fees with extra part money.
According to the internet, each insurer is different. I am led to believe based on what's already happened, that my geico adjuster here in Texas is authorized to immediately write the check prior to the repair process after he approves the amount estimated by the shop. He told me on the phone that he was writing them the supplemental check to replace my tailgate last Tuesday when he went to the shop to approve their estimate.
So if I'm lucky, he will go approve the $9100, and I can specify what parts to be purchased with that cost, and pay whatever extra repair cost myself that may arise as a result of me specifying the RK kit and possibly running into their approved labor fees with extra part money.
10-03-2015, 07:02 AM
#23
Super Moderator
This can all be handled really simple.
If the shop estimated the repairs to be $9K and the adjuster agreed, then the insurance is now ready to make a "settlement" in the amount of $9K to you. That's all insurance ever is, the insurance company living up to their side of the contract in repairing your insured vehicle to "as good or better than it was prior to the incident", where in your insurance policy it states they will use OE replacement parts but reserve the right to use re-manufactured OE parts. You should read your policy, this is all pretty well spelled out in the policy.
At that point you now have the choice to have a shop of your choice to do the repairs to meet the insurances obligation of restoring your vehicle back to as good or better prior to the incident. You also can opt to NOT have the repairs done and have the insurance cut you a check for the estimated amount of $9K. At that point, you have the choice to do whatever you want to have done and use that $9K check however you want. So you need the shop to give you a new estimate of obtaining and installing whatever kit and shocks you want installed. You pay that amount to the repair shop and the insurance company is no longer involved in the repair process. It could be the repair using the parts you specified cost less than $9K and you get to pocket the difference. However, it could be more as well and you're responsible for that difference.
Now the problem with doing this is that YOU accept all the responsibilities for the repairs and the accuracy of the estimate from that point on. In other words, the Insurance was prepared to meet their obligation and pay for the OE parts that were needed and have the work done for you to restore your JK back to the condition is was prior to the accident. YOU opted to NOT have that done and decided to have something else installed instead. So now, during that install if anything else is found to be wrong due to the accident or if the install by the shop messes something up, you end up being responsible for handling and paying for those situations. The insurance company is happy to cut you a check, and let you handle those potential problems. When they cut you that check, that is considered a mutually agreed upon "settlement" and the insurance company considers your accident claim closed at that point.
Hopefully you understand the full impact of this risk since you just experienced it with this insurance claim already. In the original estimate, you stated it was a $1900 repair, then it was discovered later that additional work needed to be done and now you're up to over $9K. If you choose to accept the check settlement of $9K, the insurance company has met it's side of the obligation and you accepted that offer from them. If it is found that more work needs to be done, raising the estimate even more, then you're out of luck and shouldn't expect anything more from the insurance company. You accepted and cashed the check for $9K to have other work done. In other words you and the insurance company agreed upon a settlement of $9K.
So like I said, the insurance company will be happy to cut you a check of $9K based upon the repair estimate where you can then choose to do whatever repair you want, using whatever parts you choose. They're happy because they are able to eliminate their responsibility of potentially having to pay any other necessary repairs and the warranty of the OE parts that got installed for the repair. Anything else found during the repair is now your responsibility, so that's why they're happy to let you take on that responsibility.
If the shop estimated the repairs to be $9K and the adjuster agreed, then the insurance is now ready to make a "settlement" in the amount of $9K to you. That's all insurance ever is, the insurance company living up to their side of the contract in repairing your insured vehicle to "as good or better than it was prior to the incident", where in your insurance policy it states they will use OE replacement parts but reserve the right to use re-manufactured OE parts. You should read your policy, this is all pretty well spelled out in the policy.
At that point you now have the choice to have a shop of your choice to do the repairs to meet the insurances obligation of restoring your vehicle back to as good or better prior to the incident. You also can opt to NOT have the repairs done and have the insurance cut you a check for the estimated amount of $9K. At that point, you have the choice to do whatever you want to have done and use that $9K check however you want. So you need the shop to give you a new estimate of obtaining and installing whatever kit and shocks you want installed. You pay that amount to the repair shop and the insurance company is no longer involved in the repair process. It could be the repair using the parts you specified cost less than $9K and you get to pocket the difference. However, it could be more as well and you're responsible for that difference.
Now the problem with doing this is that YOU accept all the responsibilities for the repairs and the accuracy of the estimate from that point on. In other words, the Insurance was prepared to meet their obligation and pay for the OE parts that were needed and have the work done for you to restore your JK back to the condition is was prior to the accident. YOU opted to NOT have that done and decided to have something else installed instead. So now, during that install if anything else is found to be wrong due to the accident or if the install by the shop messes something up, you end up being responsible for handling and paying for those situations. The insurance company is happy to cut you a check, and let you handle those potential problems. When they cut you that check, that is considered a mutually agreed upon "settlement" and the insurance company considers your accident claim closed at that point.
Hopefully you understand the full impact of this risk since you just experienced it with this insurance claim already. In the original estimate, you stated it was a $1900 repair, then it was discovered later that additional work needed to be done and now you're up to over $9K. If you choose to accept the check settlement of $9K, the insurance company has met it's side of the obligation and you accepted that offer from them. If it is found that more work needs to be done, raising the estimate even more, then you're out of luck and shouldn't expect anything more from the insurance company. You accepted and cashed the check for $9K to have other work done. In other words you and the insurance company agreed upon a settlement of $9K.
So like I said, the insurance company will be happy to cut you a check of $9K based upon the repair estimate where you can then choose to do whatever repair you want, using whatever parts you choose. They're happy because they are able to eliminate their responsibility of potentially having to pay any other necessary repairs and the warranty of the OE parts that got installed for the repair. Anything else found during the repair is now your responsibility, so that's why they're happy to let you take on that responsibility.
Last edited by Rednroll; 10-03-2015 at 08:36 AM.
10-03-2015, 10:46 AM
#24
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
This can all be handled really simple.
If the shop estimated the repairs to be $9K and the adjuster agreed, then the insurance is now ready to make a "settlement" in the amount of $9K to you. That's all insurance ever is, the insurance company living up to their side of the contract in repairing your insured vehicle to "as good or better than it was prior to the incident", where in your insurance policy it states they will use OE replacement parts but reserve the right to use re-manufactured OE parts. You should read your policy, this is all pretty well spelled out in the policy.
At that point you now have the choice to have a shop of your choice to do the repairs to meet the insurances obligation of restoring your vehicle back to as good or better prior to the incident. You also can opt to NOT have the repairs done and have the insurance cut you a check for the estimated amount of $9K. At that point, you have the choice to do whatever you want to have done and use that $9K check however you want. So you need the shop to give you a new estimate of obtaining and installing whatever kit and shocks you want installed. You pay that amount to the repair shop and the insurance company is no longer involved in the repair process. It could be the repair using the parts you specified cost less than $9K and you get to pocket the difference. However, it could be more as well and you're responsible for that difference.
Now the problem with doing this is that YOU accept all the responsibilities for the repairs and the accuracy of the estimate from that point on. In other words, the Insurance was prepared to meet their obligation and pay for the OE parts that were needed and have the work done for you to restore your JK back to the condition is was prior to the accident. YOU opted to NOT have that done and decided to have something else installed instead. So now, during that install if anything else is found to be wrong due to the accident or if the install by the shop messes something up, you end up being responsible for handling and paying for those situations. The insurance company is happy to cut you a check, and let you handle those potential problems. When they cut you that check, that is considered a mutually agreed upon "settlement" and the insurance company considers your accident claim closed at that point.
Hopefully you understand the full impact of this risk since you just experienced it with this insurance claim already. In the original estimate, you stated it was a $1900 repair, then it was discovered later that additional work needed to be done and now you're up to over $9K. If you choose to accept the check settlement of $9K, the insurance company has met it's side of the obligation and you accepted that offer from them. If it is found that more work needs to be done, raising the estimate even more, then you're out of luck and shouldn't expect anything more from the insurance company. You accepted and cashed the check for $9K to have other work done. In other words you and the insurance company agreed upon a settlement of $9K.
So like I said, the insurance company will be happy to cut you a check of $9K based upon the repair estimate where you can then choose to do whatever repair you want, using whatever parts you choose. They're happy because they are able to eliminate their responsibility of potentially having to pay any other necessary repairs and the warranty of the OE parts that got installed for the repair. Anything else found during the repair is now your responsibility, so that's why they're happy to let you take on that responsibility.
If the shop estimated the repairs to be $9K and the adjuster agreed, then the insurance is now ready to make a "settlement" in the amount of $9K to you. That's all insurance ever is, the insurance company living up to their side of the contract in repairing your insured vehicle to "as good or better than it was prior to the incident", where in your insurance policy it states they will use OE replacement parts but reserve the right to use re-manufactured OE parts. You should read your policy, this is all pretty well spelled out in the policy.
At that point you now have the choice to have a shop of your choice to do the repairs to meet the insurances obligation of restoring your vehicle back to as good or better prior to the incident. You also can opt to NOT have the repairs done and have the insurance cut you a check for the estimated amount of $9K. At that point, you have the choice to do whatever you want to have done and use that $9K check however you want. So you need the shop to give you a new estimate of obtaining and installing whatever kit and shocks you want installed. You pay that amount to the repair shop and the insurance company is no longer involved in the repair process. It could be the repair using the parts you specified cost less than $9K and you get to pocket the difference. However, it could be more as well and you're responsible for that difference.
Now the problem with doing this is that YOU accept all the responsibilities for the repairs and the accuracy of the estimate from that point on. In other words, the Insurance was prepared to meet their obligation and pay for the OE parts that were needed and have the work done for you to restore your JK back to the condition is was prior to the accident. YOU opted to NOT have that done and decided to have something else installed instead. So now, during that install if anything else is found to be wrong due to the accident or if the install by the shop messes something up, you end up being responsible for handling and paying for those situations. The insurance company is happy to cut you a check, and let you handle those potential problems. When they cut you that check, that is considered a mutually agreed upon "settlement" and the insurance company considers your accident claim closed at that point.
Hopefully you understand the full impact of this risk since you just experienced it with this insurance claim already. In the original estimate, you stated it was a $1900 repair, then it was discovered later that additional work needed to be done and now you're up to over $9K. If you choose to accept the check settlement of $9K, the insurance company has met it's side of the obligation and you accepted that offer from them. If it is found that more work needs to be done, raising the estimate even more, then you're out of luck and shouldn't expect anything more from the insurance company. You accepted and cashed the check for $9K to have other work done. In other words you and the insurance company agreed upon a settlement of $9K.
So like I said, the insurance company will be happy to cut you a check of $9K based upon the repair estimate where you can then choose to do whatever repair you want, using whatever parts you choose. They're happy because they are able to eliminate their responsibility of potentially having to pay any other necessary repairs and the warranty of the OE parts that got installed for the repair. Anything else found during the repair is now your responsibility, so that's why they're happy to let you take on that responsibility.
Unfortunately it is not as simple as you state and as I would like it to be, due to the vehicle not being paid off yet. I cannot have the check written to me without it also being jointly written to my lien-holder, AKA the credit union I financed through.
If it were that easy I would have the check written to me, and do all the work myself and know without asking that I could upgrade the axle, entire suspenion, and gears, all for less than 5,000. In order to do that in my situation, I would have to have the check signed over to me by the credit union, which is basically an impossibility, due to the fact that they want the repairs to their investment to be done by a certified professional shop, not the owner. I decided to not even waste my time attempting that route.
SO this leaves the other option as described to me by my insurance, have a body shop take the jeep, check it out, estimate repair cost, and then have the insurance adjuster come approve their estimate and cut THEM the check.
The initial $1800 you're noting was for body work only. The body shop already got that check last week.
The SUPPLEMENTAL repair cost, AKA the suspension that the dumba$$ adjuster didn't even write up, THAT ALONE is what the shop has totaled up to $9100.
I assume that includes parts AND labor, correct?
HTM7765 mentioned that his body shop he oversees just spent $4400 on a junkyard D30.
Here is what I KNOW is damaged. The axle housing and probably shafts, axle-side control arm mounts, pitman arm bolt snapped, it needs new tie rods/ends. I am pretty sure shock is blown and spring over-compressed. I do not recall seeing anything else obvious.
I KNOW the frame is straight, I KNOW the frame side mounts are unharmed, I KNOW the upper control arms are straight.
I AM FAIRLY SURE the lower control arms are straight, as the axle side mounts absorbed the impact and about bent off the axle. I am fairly sure my steering stabilizer is probably shot. I am fairly sure the trackbar and steering components are still straight.
SO, this leaves basically what the shop has already written up. I don't think they will find any other damage once they do the axle replacement. This leaves me confident in having them replace the parts and not worry about them finding hidden damage.
At this point, the insurance adjuster hopefully is going to show up Monday morning and approve that full $9100. Once he does that, he will write the check then I am pretty sure, then I will be able to either let the shop handle it all their way, OR according to Texas State law, I get to choose the brand, vendor, condition, age, etc of the replacement parts.
I want them to use the cheapest straight d30 they can find, I am not worried about a warranty on it. I want them to also spend $2495 on RK X-Factor mid arm, with the Fox 2.0 remote reservoir shocks, Northridge 4x4 is who I would be using as the vendor. If there is extra money left for PARTS and not just labor costs left out of the $9100, I want them to purchase a set of 4.88 gears for $500.
I guess it is all going to be up to what money is left over after purchasing a replacement axle, and the $2495 of suspension parts. If those things total so high into that $9100 that I start to cut in to the shop's labor fees they've estimated, they might want to shy away from doing this. However, given that state law says that I can choose the parts to be used as long as they are reasonably priced, then I see a good chance that I can source an axle for around 1500-2000, which then would leave me plenty of room for the proposed RK/Fox parts.
The part I am wondering about is, how is the shop going to view me buying a front and rear suspension, as opposed to just the front which is what they have quoted labor fees for. Presumably, I would only need to pay the difference for install time/labor costs, and they should be happy to make some extra money.
HTM7765, what would you estimate the labor fees to be based on what all I have mentioned? Out of that $9100, how much do you think they have in parts, and how much in labor? That seems to be the one aspect that is really going to matter. I can't imagine them charging $4000ish for install of a RK full suspension. I feel like they have high axle and replacement part cost, and the rest is for labor. I can't envision a full axle swap and spring/shock swap up front totaling to very long in labor. I would happily pay them an extra $500 or so to do this full install if I had to, but I don't know if I even will have to if I choose to have a replacement axle bought at half the cost or less than what they have already quoted.
Assuming the insurance adjuster is going to cut them the check upon approval of their supplemental repair cost estimate, I should be pretty good as long as the shop is willing to keep my jeep in the extra time it takes to install the rear suspension, and can bare with me during me trying to pitch this to them.
10-03-2015, 01:21 PM
#25
Super Moderator
Like I mentioned. You should read through your insurance policy. It sounds to me you are not fully aware of what are your options. Without educating yourself with that information, you are only setting yourself up to be taken advantage of and not get what you want. There will be sections outlining repairs as well as replacement part guidelines and your options in regards to who can do the service. If there are contingencies in regards to a lien holder, then that will be spelled out as well. Most insurance company's may make you go through their adjuster or repair shop to get the repair estimates but once that estimate amount has been established, it is typically up to you where you want to bring it to have the work done.
Another thing in regards to the lien holder (your bank lender), it will typically depend on how much you owe, and what is the cost of the repairs and the blue book value of your JK.
For example. If your JK blue book is 25K and you owe 15K and the repair estimate is 9K, then the lien amount is only good for up to how much you owe. So in this example you owe 15K, the value of your JK is the blue book value minus the repairs estimate. (25K-9K)=16K. So the lien does not apply because the bank's investment is still covered even if the repairs are not done and they will still be able to recover what you owe (15K).
What you need to keep in mind is that the adjuster and insurance company designated repair shops are there to protect the best interests of who is paying them. In your situation for both of them, that is the insurance company. So they will always lean and provide you information that favors reducing the costs for the insurance company. That is why you need to read your insurance policy, because that is the document which you can use to dispute anything you don't agree with. If they're using junk yard parts, and that is not what the policy states and you wish them to not use junkyard parts, then you can dispute that based upon what is outlined in the policy in regards to part replacements.
You are telling me "it's not that simple", but like I mentioned the adjuster and insurance repair shop are looking to protect the interests of the insurance company, so they will make things sound more complicated to deter you from pursuing other options that are in your favor. You need to read your policy, because you'll find out it really is that simple and will know for certain your true options which will be much less complicated once you figure out what you are and aren't entitled to do, which will be in black and white on the policy, which is your contract between you and the insurance company.
Another thing in regards to the lien holder (your bank lender), it will typically depend on how much you owe, and what is the cost of the repairs and the blue book value of your JK.
For example. If your JK blue book is 25K and you owe 15K and the repair estimate is 9K, then the lien amount is only good for up to how much you owe. So in this example you owe 15K, the value of your JK is the blue book value minus the repairs estimate. (25K-9K)=16K. So the lien does not apply because the bank's investment is still covered even if the repairs are not done and they will still be able to recover what you owe (15K).
What you need to keep in mind is that the adjuster and insurance company designated repair shops are there to protect the best interests of who is paying them. In your situation for both of them, that is the insurance company. So they will always lean and provide you information that favors reducing the costs for the insurance company. That is why you need to read your insurance policy, because that is the document which you can use to dispute anything you don't agree with. If they're using junk yard parts, and that is not what the policy states and you wish them to not use junkyard parts, then you can dispute that based upon what is outlined in the policy in regards to part replacements.
You are telling me "it's not that simple", but like I mentioned the adjuster and insurance repair shop are looking to protect the interests of the insurance company, so they will make things sound more complicated to deter you from pursuing other options that are in your favor. You need to read your policy, because you'll find out it really is that simple and will know for certain your true options which will be much less complicated once you figure out what you are and aren't entitled to do, which will be in black and white on the policy, which is your contract between you and the insurance company.
Last edited by Rednroll; 10-03-2015 at 01:27 PM.
10-03-2015, 01:30 PM
#26
Super Moderator
I don't care to go through every response but skimming responses leaves me with a simple response because I've been in a similar situation.
The insurance company cuts you a check and you can do as you please. I had someone side swipe me and I took their insurance estimate for repair, geico, to the body shop and had them do panel work/ paint only. I took the check to my personal bank and deposited it. I then ordered my new rear bumper and pulled some spare fender flares out of the garage and put them on. Jeep wasn't paid off and the loan bank didn't see a dime.
Another scenario- I bumped into someone in the parking lot, the insurance adjuster wrote up the estimate then handed me a check for the repairs and told me to do as I please. This was only a few months after buying the jeep so obviously it was not paid off. I took the check and caged it, my loan bank didn't see a penny, and I bought a new bumper.
The jeep has since been paid off but I had similar concerns that you did about the loan bank wanting their investment paid off first. My concerns were unfounded.
The insurance company cuts you a check and you can do as you please. I had someone side swipe me and I took their insurance estimate for repair, geico, to the body shop and had them do panel work/ paint only. I took the check to my personal bank and deposited it. I then ordered my new rear bumper and pulled some spare fender flares out of the garage and put them on. Jeep wasn't paid off and the loan bank didn't see a dime.
Another scenario- I bumped into someone in the parking lot, the insurance adjuster wrote up the estimate then handed me a check for the repairs and told me to do as I please. This was only a few months after buying the jeep so obviously it was not paid off. I took the check and caged it, my loan bank didn't see a penny, and I bought a new bumper.
The jeep has since been paid off but I had similar concerns that you did about the loan bank wanting their investment paid off first. My concerns were unfounded.
10-03-2015, 02:14 PM
#27
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Like I mentioned. You should read through your insurance policy. It sounds to me you are not fully aware of what are your options. Without educating yourself with that information, you are only setting yourself up to be taken advantage of and not get what you want. There will be sections outlining repairs as well as replacement part guidelines and your options in regards to who can do the service. If there are contingencies in regards to a lien holder, then that will be spelled out as well. Most insurance company's may make you go through their adjuster or repair shop to get the repair estimates but once that estimate amount has been established, it is typically up to you where you want to bring it to have the work done. Another thing in regards to the lien holder (your bank lender), it will typically depend on how much you owe, and what is the cost of the repairs and the blue book value of your JK. For example. If your JK blue book is 25K and you owe 15K and the repair estimate is 9K, then the lien amount is only good for up to how much you owe. So in this example you owe 15K, the value of your JK is the blue book value minus the repairs estimate. (25K-9K)=16K. So the lien does not apply because the bank's investment is still covered even if the repairs are not done and they will still be able to recover what you owe (15K). What you need to keep in mind is that the adjuster and insurance company designated repair shops are there to protect the best interests of who is paying them. In your situation for both of them, that is the insurance company. So they will always lean and provide you information that favors reducing the costs for the insurance company. That is why you need to read your insurance policy, because that is the document which you can use to dispute anything you don't agree with. If they're using junk yard parts, and that is not what the policy states and you wish them to not use junkyard parts, then you can dispute that based upon what is outlined in the policy in regards to part replacements. You are telling me "it's not that simple", but like I mentioned the adjuster and insurance repair shop are looking to protect the interests of the insurance company, so they will make things sound more complicated to deter you from pursuing other options that are in your favor. You need to read your policy, because you'll find out it really is that simple and will know for certain your true options which will be much less complicated once you figure out what you are and aren't entitled to do, which will be in black and white on the policy, which is your contract between you and the insurance company.
Protecting interest and all of these other things are pretty much irrelevant after the insurance writes the check to the body shop. And, based upon the way they already handled the body-related aspects, I am led to believe that they are writing the check for suspension the same way they did for the body. Which is upon approving the body shop's estimate for repair/replacement parts, before the body shop begins work.
I didn't come here to argue however, my question was not about what my insurance policy is going to allow or not allow. It was about the general possibility of my proposal, and early in the thread it was pretty much established that the body shop's willingness to bare with me and possibly take a little extra effort and time would be what the possibility of success hinged upon. I outlined the state law in regards to the insurance's relation to repairs. I am aware of my insurance policy. State law does not change according to insurance policy, or carrier.
10-03-2015, 02:38 PM
#29
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I have come to that conclusion by this point in the thread. My only remaining questions were posted a few replies ahead of the last few, and I was addressing one of the other people who oversee a body shop, because they were body shop related questions with specifics.
10-03-2015, 03:58 PM
#30
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bluffton SC
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Sorry for the delay in replying.
It is near impossible for me to estimate labor and parts for you. You are initialed to a copy of the estimate that will tell you everything you need to know what parts they are using how much Labor etc..
IMO it's not as simple as other people are saying the shop has responsibility to the insurance company, the lender, and you to repair your vehicle to like new condition.
I do believe what you are asking is not uncommon nor out of line for asking, we have done upgrades for our customers before just not on the scale you are looking for but it's basically the same thing
When the insurance company writes a check to the shop that doesn't require the bank to sign off, it is understood the shop is going to do the repair as they agreed upon with the insurance company this way all parties are protected
You might be in the position that the shop may agree to your proposal but also be prepared they might want to do the complete job ( depending on the shop) they will give you credits and then charge you to build it the way you want which might cost you some out of pocket expense or maybe not...
It all falls on the shop ... There are so many variables in this situation it's almost impossible to touch on all of them... So if it was me I would go to the shop ask for a copy of the estimate with the supplement and review it see what credits you can come up with then compare to what you want to do and see were you come in at . As I stated earlier I wouldn't entertain you doing work even signing off on stuff that's just me, every shop is different ..
I would call the shop in the morning (Monday) and ask if there is a good time for you to come down and discuss your job with them... Monday's are usually busy, this way your not walking in when the man is busy, he might not give you the attention you need and just say no so he can move on with his day..
The shop has the final say If I can give you any advise..just be professional don't go in thinking you know how it works and quoting state law.. Remember the shop is holding all the cards if you come off like a jerk ( not saying you are) walls come up and you will get your vehicle repaired by the book.
Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum
It is near impossible for me to estimate labor and parts for you. You are initialed to a copy of the estimate that will tell you everything you need to know what parts they are using how much Labor etc..
IMO it's not as simple as other people are saying the shop has responsibility to the insurance company, the lender, and you to repair your vehicle to like new condition.
I do believe what you are asking is not uncommon nor out of line for asking, we have done upgrades for our customers before just not on the scale you are looking for but it's basically the same thing
When the insurance company writes a check to the shop that doesn't require the bank to sign off, it is understood the shop is going to do the repair as they agreed upon with the insurance company this way all parties are protected
You might be in the position that the shop may agree to your proposal but also be prepared they might want to do the complete job ( depending on the shop) they will give you credits and then charge you to build it the way you want which might cost you some out of pocket expense or maybe not...
It all falls on the shop ... There are so many variables in this situation it's almost impossible to touch on all of them... So if it was me I would go to the shop ask for a copy of the estimate with the supplement and review it see what credits you can come up with then compare to what you want to do and see were you come in at . As I stated earlier I wouldn't entertain you doing work even signing off on stuff that's just me, every shop is different ..
I would call the shop in the morning (Monday) and ask if there is a good time for you to come down and discuss your job with them... Monday's are usually busy, this way your not walking in when the man is busy, he might not give you the attention you need and just say no so he can move on with his day..
The shop has the final say If I can give you any advise..just be professional don't go in thinking you know how it works and quoting state law.. Remember the shop is holding all the cards if you come off like a jerk ( not saying you are) walls come up and you will get your vehicle repaired by the book.
Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum