JCR Axle Truss
#21
I did a 44 truss for a friend on stands in my garage. We left the fluid in there and just went slow. We didn't use the fiberglass blanket because we kept the heat low and slow. I'm using the harbor freight special with .035 and mixed gas. It came out really nice and I told him to thrash away.
We did not weld his tubes to the diff but I did weld my rear tubes to the diff. His truss was the Artec, but I'd like to try out a Barnes 4wd truss.
Also- we left the bj's in place and did the C gussets without cooking them. Again- go slow and control yourself. Small stitches and move elsewhere.
We did not weld his tubes to the diff but I did weld my rear tubes to the diff. His truss was the Artec, but I'd like to try out a Barnes 4wd truss.
Also- we left the bj's in place and did the C gussets without cooking them. Again- go slow and control yourself. Small stitches and move elsewhere.
#22
Super Moderator
Preheat on the center is absolutely recommended and when you hear the first bead start to pull away from the cast, you'll know why. We tried to keep the heat localized there with overlapping beads but even then, we got a point where we decided it was welded there "good enough". The rest of the structure is so hefty that I'd be surprised if those few small passes on the center made any significant difference when it comes down to it.
My opinion, your mileage may vary, and of course everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
My opinion, your mileage may vary, and of course everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
#23
JK Freak
I believe the process we used was TIG braising with Ni-55. Preheat, post-heat, and wrap with a fiberglass blanket for slow cooling.
#24
Super Moderator
Realizing that I am late to the party I just want to give my .02 on the JRC truss vs the Artec Truss or Barnes 4x4 truss. Here is my thoughts, JCR does not have the option for an integrated raised track bar bracket like the Artec and Barnes do. With that bing said additional money will need to be spent to get a raised track bar bracket to get the drag link and track bar as parallel as possible to reduce bump steering.
I have had an Artec Truss on my D30 and currently have the Barnes4x4 truss on Unlitmate 44 specicially for the raised track bar bracket. I also like buying parts from companies that are specialist in a certain field like Artec which specializes in trusses and Barnes which started out specializing in builder componets.
Again JMHO.
R/
Will
I have had an Artec Truss on my D30 and currently have the Barnes4x4 truss on Unlitmate 44 specicially for the raised track bar bracket. I also like buying parts from companies that are specialist in a certain field like Artec which specializes in trusses and Barnes which started out specializing in builder componets.
Again JMHO.
R/
Will
#25
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Realizing that I am late to the party I just want to give my .02 on the JRC truss vs the Artec Truss or Barnes 4x4 truss. Here is my thoughts, JCR does not have the option for an integrated raised track bar bracket like the Artec and Barnes do. With that bing said additional money will need to be spent to get a raised track bar bracket to get the drag link and track bar as parallel as possible to reduce bump steering.
I have had an Artec Truss on my D30 and currently have the Barnes4x4 truss on Unlitmate 44 specicially for the raised track bar bracket. I also like buying parts from companies that are specialist in a certain field like Artec which specializes in trusses and Barnes which started out specializing in builder componets.
Again JMHO.
R/
Will
I have had an Artec Truss on my D30 and currently have the Barnes4x4 truss on Unlitmate 44 specicially for the raised track bar bracket. I also like buying parts from companies that are specialist in a certain field like Artec which specializes in trusses and Barnes which started out specializing in builder componets.
Again JMHO.
R/
Will
Might be a dumb question but you don't know until you ask.
#27
Super Moderator
Which is where you should be with 3.5"+, high steer.
The catch on the truss is that you've got to have 2.5" (if I'm recalling correctly) to even install a truss without contacting everything.
The catch on the truss is that you've got to have 2.5" (if I'm recalling correctly) to even install a truss without contacting everything.
#28
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im running a 2.5, so I shouldn't have any clearance issues with a truss and I don't need a high steer, right?
#29
Super Moderator
#30
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts