jk with limited slip diff and brake lock diff is it enough
03-22-2017, 07:19 AM
#11
I have ARB Air Lockers front and rear in a JKUS. I don't know about E-Lockers being easier to use. With E-Locker you hit two switches. With Air-Lockers you hit three, not that significant of a difference to me since they're all together on my SPOD. An Air-Locker setup also provides the built in ability to air up your tires with the compressor.
Last edited by kmrtnsn; 03-22-2017 at 05:16 PM.
03-22-2017, 08:31 AM
#12
JK Enthusiast
Air lockers add multiple failure locations. The compressor, every joint, low hanging bend, plus the possibility of moisture and freezing. Air lockers work great when they work, the problem is that if they break it is usually not an easy fix. With an e-locker, the worse case scenario is you can run a connection straight to the battery and be fine.
I was even told a local shop would not install them because too many have frozen and just broken.
I was even told a local shop would not install them because too many have frozen and just broken.
03-22-2017, 11:30 AM
#13
JK Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2016
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Just did my 2012 on a budget. Went with new gears 4:88s and true tracs front and rear. Went ahead and sleeved front and rear axles as well as gussets on the 30. So far so good and saved about $1000 from ARB or electric.
03-22-2017, 05:23 PM
#14
Air lockers add multiple failure locations. The compressor, every joint, low hanging bend, plus the possibility of moisture and freezing. Air lockers work great when they work, the problem is that if they break it is usually not an easy fix. With an e-locker, the worse case scenario is you can run a connection straight to the battery and be fine.
I was even told a local shop would not install them because too many have frozen and just broken.
I was even told a local shop would not install them because too many have frozen and just broken.
03-22-2017, 06:12 PM
#15
JK Super Freak
03-22-2017, 10:08 PM
#16
Maybe it's good that I'm leaning on the HD Tru-Trac for the rear. No failures + no maintenance (aside from changing gear oil)....
You can upgrade the air lines for the ARB though and the XD60 from Dyna apparently has implemented a design in the housing such that the air lines are less likely to get pinched. I haven't heard of too many ARB carriers though crapping out.
On the other hand, the E-Locker's simplicity of just hooking a switch to the battery is nice BUT I can't count how many times I've read where it gets stuck in the locked position. Not sure if that issue is only for units served as OEM components or if that's across the board for Eaton's E-lockers, regardless if it's OEM or aftermarket.
But the ARB up front is a done deal already...
.
You can upgrade the air lines for the ARB though and the XD60 from Dyna apparently has implemented a design in the housing such that the air lines are less likely to get pinched. I haven't heard of too many ARB carriers though crapping out.
On the other hand, the E-Locker's simplicity of just hooking a switch to the battery is nice BUT I can't count how many times I've read where it gets stuck in the locked position. Not sure if that issue is only for units served as OEM components or if that's across the board for Eaton's E-lockers, regardless if it's OEM or aftermarket.
But the ARB up front is a done deal already...
.
Last edited by DJ1; 03-22-2017 at 10:18 PM.
03-23-2017, 08:05 AM
#17
Former Vendor
We deal with these sorts of dilemmas every day and have seen all sort of ways to skin this cat.
First of all: don't be afraid of your Dana 30. They are great axles, you just have to build them and wheel them knowing what you have, and they won't let you down, at least not for a while.
When building a Dana 30, there are recipes for imploded parts and wasted money. Spend your money where it counts. Don't waste your time on sleeves, if you're going to get that far into it, you might as well consider a D44 swap. Do C knuckle gussets and a track bar brace. Axle shaft upgrades are a recipe for a broken ring and pinion on a Dana 30. Keep the factory shafts. In fact, go to a junk yard and pick up a spare set as trail spares. Use your factory shafts as a fuse to keep the more expensive bits in the differential safe from shock loading. Replacing the shafts on these axles on the trail is one of the easier repairs you might have to do as far as this kinda stuff goes. Keep it that way. A broken diff is no fun.
Keep the gears to a 4.56 or 4.88 max. Get GOOD gears and have an experienced installer put it together. Do some running around in high four, as many miles as you can on some light trails to harden the gears and flush the fluid before you tackle the rocks.
As far as the locker question in a Dana 30, some of the previous posters got it right. There are two viable options. An ARB is best in a lot of ways. You'll want to learn to use the locker sparingly when you need it for big climbs and times when you'll be lifting wheel and getting over the big stuff. You'll want to unlock it when you're making sharp turns (unless absolutely required, and then use a LIGHT FOOT) or instances when you might have to get a little momentum going and risk bouncing. I'm not a huge fan of the traction control system, but you can learn to use it and it'll get you by in a lot of situations.
The other option, which is a great option is a Detroit TrueTrac. It isn't a full locker, but it's a sensitive gear driven limited slip that doesn't require an additives to function and works great with the traction control system. You can also learn to manually engage it with light application of the brake petal when you're in situations with a wheel in the air and you need traction. I'm a huge fan, they're simple and they will get you ANYWHERE with proper driving. It'll also be a little easier on the front axle components than a full locker because you will never be at full bind in any situation.
For the rear, just throw an ARB back there regardless. If you choose the TrueTrac front, the rear locker will push you over 90% of what you'll encounter with out any special witchcraft required.
The other part of this, perhaps the most important, is to not over do it in tire size. A 35x12.50R17 is the way to go. Anything bigger or wider is tempting fate. Some guys run bigger tires, but you simply don't need it. A properly equipped JK on 35" tires will get you anywhere you would want to take a full bodied rig.
The reality of a Dana 30 in a JK is that it is a great axle that can stand up to more than it should considering, but it is marginally equipped to handle a fat, heavy JK on big tires. Its positive attributes make it possible to keep one for the life of your rig. You'll probably break something on occasion, and if you choose a lower gear set in the diff, you could literally wear the pinion gear out with a lot of trail use within a few years time, but when you look at the cost factor, often it's just worth it to run it and run it and run it. As long as you don't pretend you're driving a rock bouncer, you'll get a lot of use out of it. Just enjoy it and don't worry about what the internet says, just run it and enjoy your Jeep!
First of all: don't be afraid of your Dana 30. They are great axles, you just have to build them and wheel them knowing what you have, and they won't let you down, at least not for a while.
When building a Dana 30, there are recipes for imploded parts and wasted money. Spend your money where it counts. Don't waste your time on sleeves, if you're going to get that far into it, you might as well consider a D44 swap. Do C knuckle gussets and a track bar brace. Axle shaft upgrades are a recipe for a broken ring and pinion on a Dana 30. Keep the factory shafts. In fact, go to a junk yard and pick up a spare set as trail spares. Use your factory shafts as a fuse to keep the more expensive bits in the differential safe from shock loading. Replacing the shafts on these axles on the trail is one of the easier repairs you might have to do as far as this kinda stuff goes. Keep it that way. A broken diff is no fun.
Keep the gears to a 4.56 or 4.88 max. Get GOOD gears and have an experienced installer put it together. Do some running around in high four, as many miles as you can on some light trails to harden the gears and flush the fluid before you tackle the rocks.
As far as the locker question in a Dana 30, some of the previous posters got it right. There are two viable options. An ARB is best in a lot of ways. You'll want to learn to use the locker sparingly when you need it for big climbs and times when you'll be lifting wheel and getting over the big stuff. You'll want to unlock it when you're making sharp turns (unless absolutely required, and then use a LIGHT FOOT) or instances when you might have to get a little momentum going and risk bouncing. I'm not a huge fan of the traction control system, but you can learn to use it and it'll get you by in a lot of situations.
The other option, which is a great option is a Detroit TrueTrac. It isn't a full locker, but it's a sensitive gear driven limited slip that doesn't require an additives to function and works great with the traction control system. You can also learn to manually engage it with light application of the brake petal when you're in situations with a wheel in the air and you need traction. I'm a huge fan, they're simple and they will get you ANYWHERE with proper driving. It'll also be a little easier on the front axle components than a full locker because you will never be at full bind in any situation.
For the rear, just throw an ARB back there regardless. If you choose the TrueTrac front, the rear locker will push you over 90% of what you'll encounter with out any special witchcraft required.
The other part of this, perhaps the most important, is to not over do it in tire size. A 35x12.50R17 is the way to go. Anything bigger or wider is tempting fate. Some guys run bigger tires, but you simply don't need it. A properly equipped JK on 35" tires will get you anywhere you would want to take a full bodied rig.
The reality of a Dana 30 in a JK is that it is a great axle that can stand up to more than it should considering, but it is marginally equipped to handle a fat, heavy JK on big tires. Its positive attributes make it possible to keep one for the life of your rig. You'll probably break something on occasion, and if you choose a lower gear set in the diff, you could literally wear the pinion gear out with a lot of trail use within a few years time, but when you look at the cost factor, often it's just worth it to run it and run it and run it. As long as you don't pretend you're driving a rock bouncer, you'll get a lot of use out of it. Just enjoy it and don't worry about what the internet says, just run it and enjoy your Jeep!
Last edited by Trail Jeeps; 03-23-2017 at 08:08 AM.
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Steve2fl (01-12-2020)
03-23-2017, 08:40 AM
#18
I think trail jeeps said it best. I'm running front and rear TT and 4.56 Yukons gears professionally installed in my 2014 Sahara with 35's. I've not had a single problem. Also, the BLD combined with the TT works flawlessly, and there hasn't been anywhere I couldn't get, or any situation where they didn't lock up when needed. They are cost effective, require no special additives, they are very quiet compared to a standard Detroit, no wires or airlines to rip out, and no bad habits during normal daily driving. Do it and don't look back.
03-23-2017, 12:06 PM
#19
Super Moderator
That is the exact same setup I'm planning on for my 2009. 4.88 re-gear with front and rear Tru Tracs. What did all that run you?
03-23-2017, 03:03 PM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2014
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I think trail jeeps said it best. I'm running front and rear TT and 4.56 Yukons gears professionally installed in my 2014 Sahara with 35's. I've not had a single problem. Also, the BLD combined with the TT works flawlessly, and there hasn't been anywhere I couldn't get, or any situation where they didn't lock up when needed. They are cost effective, require no special additives, they are very quiet compared to a standard Detroit, no wires or airlines to rip out, and no bad habits during normal daily driving. Do it and don't look back.