Just got 37's please help!!!!!!!
02-21-2016, 10:10 AM
#11
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Ok thanks everyone for input. I will ask shop I'm taking to tomorrow about control arms and bump stops. I'm fine with the procomp 4 inch lift long as he can fix my rubbing issues. I just hope when jk flex on trails that fenders won't come off. When I had 35's there was lot room between the two didn't realize how much overall 37 size was until on. Any recommendations on what brand of control arms and bump stops? The jk already has sway bars but not adjustable will I need adjustable?
02-21-2016, 10:44 AM
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Any bump stops will work fine, even hockey pucks work. You will probably need 3" bumps, but that can be tailored to the amount of lift and flex before rubbing occurs. If just adding adjustable arms to your existing lift I like senergys for the ease of adjustability on the rig. Sway bar links don't need to be adjustable as long as their the right length for the amount of lift. Although quick disconnects are nice to have if your not reaching full flex while their hooked up. Hopefully you'll get more input from the veterans here.
02-21-2016, 12:52 PM
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Bumpstops are cheap. They stop the axle from moving up, so taller ones might stop the tires from moving up far enough to contact the flares and rip them off. They might also stop the rear tires from moving up into the pinch seam?
When the rear tires are stuffed, that axle moves up and back, not up and forward. Take that into account when you get your new arms and move the axle.
You should still trim, just a suggestion to think about how it all works.
You want the swaybars to remain roughly parallel to the frame/ground. If they are angled downward, you should replace with longer links, whether that is fixed or adjustable is up to you. Disconnects will let the axle droop further, but you may want to think about brakelines and shock length and whatever else.
Last edited by nthinuf; 02-21-2016 at 12:57 PM.
02-21-2016, 06:02 PM
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[QUOTE="nthinuf;4190195"]
Spend a little time figuring out what all the components do before just pulling out the credit card and paying someone else to throw new parts on.
Absolutely, the best thing to do is lots and lots of research and you'll find yourself answering your own questions. I can't count how many times my wife has complained to me about my countless hours of reading. But it pays off.
Spend a little time figuring out what all the components do before just pulling out the credit card and paying someone else to throw new parts on.
Absolutely, the best thing to do is lots and lots of research and you'll find yourself answering your own questions. I can't count how many times my wife has complained to me about my countless hours of reading. But it pays off.
02-22-2016, 11:48 AM
#17
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Flat fenders, trim the pinch seams, and trim front and rear bumpers if you still have stock.
If you want it to handle tight you don't want anymore lift the 4".
If you want it to handle tight you don't want anymore lift the 4".
02-22-2016, 06:19 PM
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Spend a little time figuring out what all the components do before just pulling out the credit card and paying someone else to throw new parts on. A few thoughts to add to what has already been said:
Bumpstops are cheap. They stop the axle from moving up, so taller ones might stop the tires from moving up far enough to contact the flares and rip them off. They might also stop the rear tires from moving up into the pinch seam?
When the rear tires are stuffed, that axle moves up and back, not up and forward. Take that into account when you get your new arms and move the axle.
You should still trim, just a suggestion to think about how it all works.
You want the swaybars to remain roughly parallel to the frame/ground. If they are angled downward, you should replace with longer links, whether that is fixed or adjustable is up to you. Disconnects will let the axle droop further, but you may want to think about brakelines and shock length and whatever else.
Bumpstops are cheap. They stop the axle from moving up, so taller ones might stop the tires from moving up far enough to contact the flares and rip them off. They might also stop the rear tires from moving up into the pinch seam?
When the rear tires are stuffed, that axle moves up and back, not up and forward. Take that into account when you get your new arms and move the axle.
You should still trim, just a suggestion to think about how it all works.
You want the swaybars to remain roughly parallel to the frame/ground. If they are angled downward, you should replace with longer links, whether that is fixed or adjustable is up to you. Disconnects will let the axle droop further, but you may want to think about brakelines and shock length and whatever else.
02-23-2016, 09:34 AM
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Just adding more lift will not stop the rubbing, you need to properly set up your bump stops. Trimming pinch seams is normal for 37's. 4" so plenty for 37's and like what was mentioned a heavy duty caster corrected front axle is strongly recommended for 4" + of lift and running 37"+ tires. A properly set up long arm will give you a better ride unfortunately almost all of the long arm kits out there are designed poorly due to the constraints of the jk design. You need to look closely at the location of the arm mounts, the length if the arms, the arm joints, and the orientation of the links. You will also want to be looking into a high steer solution (drag link flip) to improve steering and ride quality.
02-24-2016, 05:53 AM
#20
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That being said, I think you're far better off putting shorter springs on (3.5" or less) and trimming your pinch seams. Some good quality CA's will allow you to center the axle in the wheel well, and your rubbing issue should be taken care of (so long as you don't go too far back...that creates other rubbing issues than the pinch seam).
Good luck.