LCG Modding Round 2
09-24-2016, 07:31 AM
#1
JK Newbie
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LCG Modding Round 2
I'm working on the next round of bits on my 13 JKUR.
Current state: 35s, Nemesis fender flares, 1.5 inch RK springs up front (helped level the front with the winch/bumper).
Upcoming bits:
RK Lower Control arms
1.5 RK springs for the rear
Things I'm pondering:
Crown extended brake lines (stocks look a bit tight at extension)
Bump stops
Shocks
Steering stablizer
I'm very happy with the LCG/Fender setup on my jeep. I can squeeze into parking garages and I can stuff my 35s on the trail.
It's been steering too fast since I added the 1.5s up front. I considered control arm brackets (AEV, etc) but decided to use RKs to keep the ground clearance.
I drive canyon roads daily, so the fast steering bugs the crap out of me. She wants to wander a bit and that's tiring after a while.
The real question is what'll improve things the most. I've got a $50 GC coming from Northridge, so I was thinking about some Fox IFPs up front to go along with the new arms. On the other hand, a bigger steering stabilizer may help deal with the bigger tires.
Anything I'm missing here?
Current state: 35s, Nemesis fender flares, 1.5 inch RK springs up front (helped level the front with the winch/bumper).
Upcoming bits:
RK Lower Control arms
1.5 RK springs for the rear
Things I'm pondering:
Crown extended brake lines (stocks look a bit tight at extension)
Bump stops
Shocks
Steering stablizer
I'm very happy with the LCG/Fender setup on my jeep. I can squeeze into parking garages and I can stuff my 35s on the trail.
It's been steering too fast since I added the 1.5s up front. I considered control arm brackets (AEV, etc) but decided to use RKs to keep the ground clearance.
I drive canyon roads daily, so the fast steering bugs the crap out of me. She wants to wander a bit and that's tiring after a while.
The real question is what'll improve things the most. I've got a $50 GC coming from Northridge, so I was thinking about some Fox IFPs up front to go along with the new arms. On the other hand, a bigger steering stabilizer may help deal with the bigger tires.
Anything I'm missing here?
09-24-2016, 08:09 AM
#2
JK Junkie
Screw the steering stabilizer.
I was nodding my head simply reading the direction you've gone thus far.
New shocks, especially those with brake lines sounds just about right. If you want something to help with turning the big tires go hydro. Relocating a stock stabilizer is the only thing worth spending cash on.
I was nodding my head simply reading the direction you've gone thus far.
New shocks, especially those with brake lines sounds just about right. If you want something to help with turning the big tires go hydro. Relocating a stock stabilizer is the only thing worth spending cash on.
Last edited by sa29560; 09-24-2016 at 08:11 AM.
09-24-2016, 08:56 AM
#3
JK Enthusiast
Agreed-
Correcting caster will help with steering
Also for brake lines with LCG you might be able to get away with drop brackets.
You should have enough room in the hardlines to relocate and save the $200 you would have into lines for something else
I'm running 1.5-3 inch fox shocks and have drop brackets on brakes and haven't had any issues
Correcting caster will help with steering
Also for brake lines with LCG you might be able to get away with drop brackets.
You should have enough room in the hardlines to relocate and save the $200 you would have into lines for something else
I'm running 1.5-3 inch fox shocks and have drop brackets on brakes and haven't had any issues
09-28-2016, 09:26 AM
#4
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Update:
Installed RK LCAs last night after work.
I started by setting the arms to RKs reccomended length for a 1.5 lift. I turned them outward 1/2 additional turn to point the grease zerks upward. (I'd end up shearing them off on a rock sometime otherwise.
RKs instruction sheet is a bit lame. There is no information on the direction to mount them. I had to look up other photos to verify the orientation of the arms. (Adjustable joint end goes forward, with the RK sticker facing outward on each.)
I am not confident with the torque I was able to apply to the adjustment. I'm going to pick up a crow foot so I can use a breaker bar instead of my giant adjustable wrench. I'm also going to put a bit of blue lock tight on the nuts.
I was lazy and used my winch to pull the axle forward. That made it really easy to line up the LCAs.
Results:
I drove to work this morning was was impressed by the change. My drive to work involves 40 minutes of mountain/canyon roads. The fast/squirelly steering is corrected. Handling is much better. The washboard on my road was much easier to drive over as well. The fast steering created by the lack of caster created what almost felt like bump steer. I didn't hit any 70mph roads but I expect to feel an improvement there as well.
This was definitely worth the effort and $. Getting an extra $50 for more bits at northridge doesn't hurt either!
Installed RK LCAs last night after work.
I started by setting the arms to RKs reccomended length for a 1.5 lift. I turned them outward 1/2 additional turn to point the grease zerks upward. (I'd end up shearing them off on a rock sometime otherwise.
RKs instruction sheet is a bit lame. There is no information on the direction to mount them. I had to look up other photos to verify the orientation of the arms. (Adjustable joint end goes forward, with the RK sticker facing outward on each.)
I am not confident with the torque I was able to apply to the adjustment. I'm going to pick up a crow foot so I can use a breaker bar instead of my giant adjustable wrench. I'm also going to put a bit of blue lock tight on the nuts.
I was lazy and used my winch to pull the axle forward. That made it really easy to line up the LCAs.
Results:
I drove to work this morning was was impressed by the change. My drive to work involves 40 minutes of mountain/canyon roads. The fast/squirelly steering is corrected. Handling is much better. The washboard on my road was much easier to drive over as well. The fast steering created by the lack of caster created what almost felt like bump steer. I didn't hit any 70mph roads but I expect to feel an improvement there as well.
This was definitely worth the effort and $. Getting an extra $50 for more bits at northridge doesn't hurt either!
09-30-2016, 11:48 AM
#5
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Burned the gift card against some shocks at Northridge.
The driver side shock was easy to remove. I used a ratchet wrench (love those things) and removed the top nut. The bottom bolt just needed the usual wrench on wrench torque trick. I did most of it sitting on a patio chair!
Installing the new one was about expected. There's no access to put a hex wrench into the top of the bolt, so I put a strap wrench on the shock (I just my hand for the passenger side) and bolted it up. Compressing the Fox IFPs is a PITA. They expand very quickly. I ended up putting a piece of scrap wood on my floor jack and using it to compress and slide the shock eye into place. Once it was on the mount, I used a large flat screwdriver to position the eye and slide the bold into place. From there it was cake.
The passenger side sucks a bit. There's very, very little room above the upper mount. (As documented by many folks.) Seriously, Jeep, what the heck. Once again, I removed the stock shock and bolted the top of the new shock first. On this one, I put a wrench on the top nut and rotated the shock by hand by grabbing the base of the shock where I could get my hand around it. One more round with the floor jack and screw driver finished it off.
Easy mod. The new shocks are definitely an improvement. I did note a slightly stiffer front end when I take turns (this is good) and improved dampening on the washboards. For my daily driving, it's an improvement to be sure.
Next up: 1.5 RK coils for the rear!
The driver side shock was easy to remove. I used a ratchet wrench (love those things) and removed the top nut. The bottom bolt just needed the usual wrench on wrench torque trick. I did most of it sitting on a patio chair!
Installing the new one was about expected. There's no access to put a hex wrench into the top of the bolt, so I put a strap wrench on the shock (I just my hand for the passenger side) and bolted it up. Compressing the Fox IFPs is a PITA. They expand very quickly. I ended up putting a piece of scrap wood on my floor jack and using it to compress and slide the shock eye into place. Once it was on the mount, I used a large flat screwdriver to position the eye and slide the bold into place. From there it was cake.
The passenger side sucks a bit. There's very, very little room above the upper mount. (As documented by many folks.) Seriously, Jeep, what the heck. Once again, I removed the stock shock and bolted the top of the new shock first. On this one, I put a wrench on the top nut and rotated the shock by hand by grabbing the base of the shock where I could get my hand around it. One more round with the floor jack and screw driver finished it off.
Easy mod. The new shocks are definitely an improvement. I did note a slightly stiffer front end when I take turns (this is good) and improved dampening on the washboards. For my daily driving, it's an improvement to be sure.
Next up: 1.5 RK coils for the rear!