nthinuf

You said that they installed a front trackbar drop bracket, verify that the drop pitman arm was installed at the same time. And of course that that bolt was torqued.

A rear trackbar bracket was also installed? Raised from the axle or dropped from the frame?

What psi are you running in the tires?

Bakemeacake

Sorry I just saw your reply!
Well, I installed the lift myself, but there was a new track bar bracket included that I put on. It was raised up from the axle.

As for the tires, I will check and report back in the morning.

Bakemeacake

As for a general update:

I am bringing it back to the shop in the morning, but I'm not sure this is going to do me any good. I've already heard him say I need to get a dual steering stabilizer, so I have the feeling he's going to sell me this like it's going to fix all my problems.

As for where I sit on it, I have some questions about my lift. Initially I was thinking that it might be the caster being off that's causing the steering to wander, but after doing some research I believe the only way to correct caster is to have adjustable front lower control arms. Is this right? If so, my lift only came with fixed lower control arms. I would think if RC sent upgraded control arms, this would put the caster where it needs to be... Thoughts?

nthinuf

A taller suspension (with stock arms) rotates the pinion up, which lowers the caster. To lower the pinion again, you can use longer lower arms, shorter upper arms, cam bolts, or ca brackets.

In your case, the new lower arms included with that lift are longer than stock, which 'should' have rotated the pinion down and raised the caster back up to something closer to stock. Until you post the caster numbers, none of us can tell you if that might be contributing to your issue...

resharp001

If that shop tries to tell you that you need a dual steering stabilizer to fix this issue, you need to turn around and walk right out the door and don't return. Flip em the bird on the way out cuz they're not worth a crap. As previously mentioned, double check the torque on anything and everything that shop might have touched, and give the ball joints a little time to break in. The steering will become less tight (feels like you're constantly correcting). If you can't find a print out from the alignment, you can read up on measuring your pinion/caster with a cheap angle finder to determine generally what your current caster is. I've had ball joints take up to 1500 miles or so to break in.

Bakemeacake

You're right. I'm going to the shop in a few hours so hopefully I'll be able to get those numbers from them. If not I guess I could just have them check the caster while I'm there.

Bakemeacake

Yeah I really respected the shop owner until I heard him say I "needed" a dual stabilizer. Hopefully he knows better than that.

And on your ball joints, did it feel very hard to drive? Always throwing you around like there's 50 MPH cross winds? It's so bad I can't even let my girl drive the jeep because she can't keep it in a lane.

resharp001

It was a few years back, but it feeling very "flighty", and yes, a little hard to keep in the lane....worse at lower speeds. It's a bad enough feeling for one to immediately feel like something ain't right. You might just need to get some miles on them. An alignment can only recenter your steering wheel and adjust your tow in since you have fixed arms, but as mentioned above, those arms should generally have your caster where it is acceptable since they aren't the factory arms.

jchappies

What air pressure you running? The flighty feel can sometimes be your tires are just to hard. Maybe they put 80psi in an E rated tire.

Bakemeacake

I checked yesterday morning and they had 40 psi in all 4. I dropped down to 30 and it rides heaps better on bumps, still pretty flighty though.