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Is Planman wrong? Checking Tie Rod Ends

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Old 05-13-2015, 09:22 PM
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Default Is Planman wrong? Checking Tie Rod Ends

Doing Planman's checkup for wobble, I tested my steering components with pliers and found they all went up and down. Now, both my drag link and tie rod are Synergy components with less than 5k on both. I also installed a fresh batch of ball joints at the same time-- 5k miles ago. I've been having some slight wobble issues again, so I checked my steering components and saw that they all had a bit of up/down play. This baffled me a bit, so I did some more research. A number of different sites say the pliers method is INCORRECT as far as testing tie rod ends. One site even has a big picture.

So, is Planman wrong?


AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - Detailed Auto Topics - How to Properly Check Tie Rod Ends

So yes, it appears he is wrong. Why has this not been mentioned much?
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...nk-ends-77299/

Last edited by bonanza; 05-13-2015 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:34 PM
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Not sure. I had horrible DW on my jeep - I welded up my trackbar using washers, checked everything and I had no play other than using pliers on DL and TR...
I replaced them, and now no more DW. I couldn't detect any side to side play in the joints - only up and down. So...to me, the plier method IS correct.
Old 05-13-2015, 09:46 PM
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You're having wobble issues and are finding that according to planman's write-up, you may have worn parts. At the same time, you're suggesting his methods of checking for worn parts is incorrect? Do you see the failure in logic?

Planman was providing some basic, at home, methods of diagnosis. I'm sure that by no means was he suggesting it was a 100% accurate method of testing.

Let's assume planman is totally wrong. All your parts are fine. Oh, wait, did you say something about a wobble issue?

I've watched his videos and generally speaking, they provide a reasonable method of assessment. Is it a total replacement for a professional diagnosis? Probably not for most people.

In the end, you have an issue. His methods probably point to what it is, but because they are nearly new parts, you think it isn't possible. The likely situation is that you have an underlying issue such as a bad alignment or poorly worn tires, that have caused premature wear on your newer parts.
Old 05-14-2015, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
You're having wobble issues and are finding that according to planman's write-up, you may have worn parts. At the same time, you're suggesting his methods of checking for worn parts is incorrect? Do you see the failure in logic?

Planman was providing some basic, at home, methods of diagnosis. I'm sure that by no means was he suggesting it was a 100% accurate method of testing.

Let's assume planman is totally wrong. All your parts are fine. Oh, wait, did you say something about a wobble issue?

I've watched his videos and generally speaking, they provide a reasonable method of assessment. Is it a total replacement for a professional diagnosis? Probably not for most people.

In the end, you have an issue. His methods probably point to what it is, but because they are nearly new parts, you think it isn't possible. The likely situation is that you have an underlying issue such as a bad alignment or poorly worn tires, that have caused premature wear on your newer parts.
Ah..well..um Things might have changed since the old days but you should be able to have a wheel alignment towing a tire sideways and a worn tire shaking the steering wheel out of your hands and after 5k miles have no excessive wear on new ball joints. something more happening in this story.
Old 05-14-2015, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 101gargoyles
Ah..well..um Things might have changed since the old days but you should be able to have a wheel alignment towing a tire sideways and a worn tire shaking the steering wheel out of your hands and after 5k miles have no excessive wear on new ball joints. something more happening in this story.
I wore out a new set of synergy ball joints last year in 5k miles. Perfect alignment. Also burned up rear wheel bearings in the same amount of time. It happens.
Old 05-14-2015, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by bonanza
Why has this not been mentioned much?
It gets mentioned every time I see a post on the subject.


Using pliers to detect worn rod ends is not the correct way to test them. Most tie rod ends are spring loaded, and when new will have movement when squeezed with pliers. It may even damage the spring.
The proper way to check them is by hand. If you get vertical movement when checking by hand, they are worn.

If a new rod end will squeeze with pliers, how can that be a valid method to detect a worn one?

Here is a picture of a Jeep JK OEM tie rod end.


Last edited by ronjenx; 05-14-2015 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:19 AM
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If I remember correctly in his video he said there may be slight movement up and down. But what you want to look for is excessive movement or inordinate or something to that nature. It was either on the write-up or the video.
Old 05-14-2015, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DunnyBunny
If I remember correctly in his video he said there may be slight movement up and down. But what you want to look for is excessive movement or inordinate or something to that nature. It was either on the write-up or the video.
So then you have to decide how much is too much. Different manufacturers use different springs.
Checking by hand is easy. If you get ANY vertical movement, it's bad.
Old 05-14-2015, 04:47 AM
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Rod ends have a spring inside and there will be a small amount of up and down movement. Id say 1/16-1/8 is normal ?
Any more then that it should be replaced.
Old 05-14-2015, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
I wore out a new set of synergy ball joints last year in 5k miles. Perfect alignment. Also burned up rear wheel bearings in the same amount of time. It happens.
And what caused this massive devastation or are all these parts being changed out every 5k miles? At that rate of replacement I'd be going through 3.128 sets of those parts every year.
Might be cheaper to ride a horse or find out what the real problem is Oil lubed rear wheel bearings? Bud something aint quite right. A whole whack of people with old vehicles have never changed one. You need a new mechanic. Or a real mechanic


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