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Pro Rock 44 Unlimited

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Old 11-29-2015, 08:12 AM
  #41  
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When I ordered my axle from Dynatrac I asked about all the options and inquired about a custom length, I kept getting steered back to the production axles.
For what its worth get a D60.
Old 11-29-2015, 10:05 AM
  #42  
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Yeah, that would be nice, but a 60 front is considerably more money...like thousands more, and my application simply does not warrant that much strength. Maybe I should have stated my goals up front.

I may eventually go to 4" of lift and 37's, but will not go larger in either category. Right now I am running 2.5" of lift with 35's and 12" wide wheels with 4.75" backspacing. I do get some wandering, but no bump steer, and I will be having the alignment checked for proper caster.

A very solid 44 for the front that will mate well with a replacement rear 60 down the road, possibly the Dynatrac, Curry Rock Jock, or Teraflex semi float 60, should be sufficient, as the rears are much less expensive, and I can utilize my brakes, wheels, etc. My goal for the axle was to purchase one that will fit the present build I have now and also with the future mods. Hence all the questions regarding custom axle work.

As suggested, I will be calling Northridge and Dynatrac tomorrow to cover the options, and I appreciate everyone's suggestions.

Thank you!
Old 11-29-2015, 06:35 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Crom II
Yeah, that would be nice, but a 60 front is considerably more money...like thousands more, and my application simply does not warrant that much strength. Maybe I should have stated my goals up front.

I may eventually go to 4" of lift and 37's, but will not go larger in either category. Right now I am running 2.5" of lift with 35's and 12" wide wheels with 4.75" backspacing. I do get some wandering, but no bump steer, and I will be having the alignment checked for proper caster.

A very solid 44 for the front that will mate well with a replacement rear 60 down the road, possibly the Dynatrac, Curry Rock Jock, or Teraflex semi float 60, should be sufficient, as the rears are much less expensive, and I can utilize my brakes, wheels, etc. My goal for the axle was to purchase one that will fit the present build I have now and also with the future mods. Hence all the questions regarding custom axle work.

As suggested, I will be calling Northridge and Dynatrac tomorrow to cover the options, and I appreciate everyone's suggestions.

Thank you!
It has been said time and again... Don't spend a dime on a semi float 60! You don't address the key weaknesses of the factory 44 by going to a semi float rear. Some of those you named are high pinion it would probably be an even swap in strength. Get a full float or just save the money for buying spare parts in case you break a 44 part.
Old 11-29-2015, 08:33 PM
  #44  
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Ok, I am going to entertain the idea of full float and 60's, so I will look up some other posts and see what is involved to make the swap.
Old 11-29-2015, 09:20 PM
  #45  
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I spent the time since may last post trying to find previous posts regarding the swap to 60's, but all I found were some salvage yard build threads and two Spicer Ultimate threads. This is the first time I have ever joined a forum, so I am likely doing something wrong. I typed in several key words into the search bar. Can someone recommend some good posts?

Entertaining this idea, but I have a feeling there will be much more modding and cost to this than simply buying 60's. Can it be that easy???
Old 11-29-2015, 10:29 PM
  #46  
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I think people are mainly objecting to your desire for a semi float high pinion rear 60. Mopar sells a full float low pinion 60 complete with big brakes and e-locker for under $4k.
Old 11-30-2015, 03:16 AM
  #47  
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The thing is, the mopar full float 60 makes a lot of sense as far as value for the axle. It's similar in costs to the lesser semi float 60's you were considering and significantly better. The main issue you will have is trying to get a matching bolt pattern front to rear. There was a rumor that teraflex was going to make an adapter to go on front 44's to match the 8 lug rear bolt pattern, but I haven't seen a set yet. If a solution to the bolt pattern issue is found then I think no one would even consider the semi float 60's anymore.

As far as costs for the 60 swap, there are guys on here and JKO that have done it. I believe you need driveshafts, a bigger brake booster/master cylinder, and some way to reconcile the e brakes. Offhand from what I have read I can't remember them being problematic to install.

Last edited by Biginboca; 11-30-2015 at 03:31 AM.
Old 11-30-2015, 11:13 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Biginboca
The thing is, the mopar full float 60 makes a lot of sense as far as value for the axle. It's similar in costs to the lesser semi float 60's you were considering and significantly better. The main issue you will have is trying to get a matching bolt pattern front to rear. There was a rumor that teraflex was going to make an adapter to go on front 44's to match the 8 lug rear bolt pattern, but I haven't seen a set yet. If a solution to the bolt pattern issue is found then I think no one would even consider the semi float 60's anymore.

As far as costs for the 60 swap, there are guys on here and JKO that have done it. I believe you need driveshafts, a bigger brake booster/master cylinder, and some way to reconcile the e brakes. Offhand from what I have read I can't remember them being problematic to install.
The 60s are easy to install, especially if they are late model. The logical combo would be to run a 2005+ D60 with the Artec kit and then buy the UD60 rear. For the price of that rear, it is hard to beat.

I run the stock master cylinder and brake booster on mine and have no issues. Although, it is a 2013 and I believe they were upgraded in 2012?

I know the response to this - people can't or don't want to build a D60 for the front even though it can be done for the same price as a PR44. Problem solved. A source for turn key 05+ super duty axles is going live soon. Needing new driveshafts depends on what you have currently and what you place do setup wise.
Old 11-30-2015, 11:20 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
The 60s are easy to install, especially if they are late model. The logical combo would be to run a 2005+ D60 with the Artec kit and then buy the UD60 rear. For the price of that rear, it is hard to beat. I run the stock master cylinder and brake booster on mine and have no issues. Although, it is a 2013 and I believe they were upgraded in 2012? I know the response to this - people can't or don't want to build a D60 for the front even though it can be done for the same price as a PR44. Problem solved. A source for turn key 05+ super duty axles is going live soon. Needing new driveshafts depends on what you have currently and what you place do setup wise.
What your saying makes Perfect sense I just have one issue with running a 60. I'm not planning on ever running 40s just sticking with 37s. One of the reason I run them aside form looks of course is added ground clearance. Won't that be taken away with the size of the 60 pumpkin? If that's the case may as well run 35s again
Old 11-30-2015, 11:27 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Monte417
What your saying makes Perfect sense I just have one issue with running a 60. I'm not planning on ever running 40s just sticking with 37s. One of the reason I run them aside form looks of course is added ground clearance. Won't that be taken away with the size of the 60 pumpkin? If that's the case may as well run 35s again
It is a pretty small difference and in such a small area. If you hit with a 60, you would have hit with the 44 in 95% of situations.

The upside is you now have a free spin front axle, which is pretty nice. The hubs and rotors can be machined to an 8x6.5 bolt pattern as well, so it will match any non-Sterling rear axle.


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