RK Offroad Pro Long Arm Length vs Other Brands
02-09-2017, 11:04 PM
#11
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I modded the front lower frame brackets so I could fully flex the 11" shocks. My ride height is 5" Side-hills great, street manors are better than stock. I have a Currie 1" rear and a ORO front sway bar. Weigh's 6400 lbs as it sits. In the process of doing my LS-6l80e swap. C/O-Bypass all 4 corners , keeping the front 3 link but will go to a double tringulated 4 link in the rear.
I wish I had the bank to get the GenRight Elite coilovers system with the double triangulated rear and gas tank and all that, along with some rockjock 70s, but I won't have that much to spend haha.
That LS will be awesome. I want to do an LS3 myself after I pay off the jeep.
02-14-2017, 07:16 AM
#12
JK Enthusiast
Just a FYI I'm not doing a Genright kit... to much $ and don't like the design..
Its getting a XD60/PR80, Fronts I'm sticking to my RK 3 link rear likely will be custom with a side mounted tank. I think I can get about 20 gal in the left over space.
Its getting a XD60/PR80, Fronts I'm sticking to my RK 3 link rear likely will be custom with a side mounted tank. I think I can get about 20 gal in the left over space.
02-14-2017, 07:15 PM
#13
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Yeah I got that I was just saying if I could just blow money on any kit it would be that GenRight. I'm probably gonna end up doing pr60s. Wish I could do the xd60/pr80 but too much money
02-15-2017, 06:50 AM
#14
JK Jedi
I would just wait until you get some tons and do a custom long arm set up. There is not a big increase in performance with the long arm kits out there vs a short arm. A custom set up will allow you to optimize your control arm mounting points for better geometry and clearance. Kits that use the lower axle mounts in the factory location create clearance issues when off road and the long arm becomes a place where you will get hung up on the rocks. Raising the axle side mount even with the bottom of the axle tube will give you more clearance and give you a better ride since it will raise and flatten the lower arms.
you are correct about the teraflex kit having too short an upper arm which creates more extreme pinion angle changes when you articulate. While the RK arms are longer then stock 35" long arms are not really that long and I would maybe call them a mid + arm or short long arm. Ideally I would strive for an effective arm length that is close to the effective length of the driveshaft so the upper arm, lower arm, and driveshaft move in a similar arc giving you better pinion angles and more allowable travel.
People will tell you how good the RK 3 links is and its good they like it but you can do way better with a custom set up. I am not telling you that you need to do a n extreme set up like I am running (double triangulated 4 link with 3"x18" travel triple bypass and 2.5"x18" coil overs) but if you really want some impressive gains in performance you should be looking past the kits.
you are correct about the teraflex kit having too short an upper arm which creates more extreme pinion angle changes when you articulate. While the RK arms are longer then stock 35" long arms are not really that long and I would maybe call them a mid + arm or short long arm. Ideally I would strive for an effective arm length that is close to the effective length of the driveshaft so the upper arm, lower arm, and driveshaft move in a similar arc giving you better pinion angles and more allowable travel.
People will tell you how good the RK 3 links is and its good they like it but you can do way better with a custom set up. I am not telling you that you need to do a n extreme set up like I am running (double triangulated 4 link with 3"x18" travel triple bypass and 2.5"x18" coil overs) but if you really want some impressive gains in performance you should be looking past the kits.
02-16-2017, 05:40 AM
#15
Former Vendor
Pinion angles can be well controlled for a given range of travel using link synthesis as we have done. Our front arms are on point and pivot about the yoke of the driveshaft, but in the rear and especially on a 4 door, carrying arms that far forward could negatively impact the cross over angle so we chose not to do so. If you are willing to build your own system and remove all the constraints that come around the factory gas tank and other things that keep your vehicle street legal in all 50 states then the sky is the limit as dirt man stated. But be sure you have the talent and pocket book to do so. Otherwise, you will find our products very hard to beat. Personally, for the DD/Weekend Warrior guy the X Factor Setups are the way to go. If you want to simply pound on your Jeep, then the Off-Road Pro kits are the way to go...
Good luck with your build.
RK
Good luck with your build.
RK
02-16-2017, 09:08 AM
#16
JK Jedi
Why don't you guys include lower axle control arm mounts and raise both the control arm mount and the shocks mount up higher? This seems like a no brainer with your 3 link since you have so much separation with the bridge over the diff. Almost all custom builds do this and I would think a company with your experience would do this. You gain clearance and better geometry by flattening the lower arms and bringing your instant center down. I mean when looking at your instructions for the pro kit it is more like a custom build with all you have to do with cutting and welding, why not do this simple thing that has some pretty good gains. In reality it would make sense to recommend in your instructions to remove all the rear factory brackets on the axle and relocate or replace them in the proper orientation so things proper line up and you can get rid of the coil wedges and gain clearance on both the shocks and rear track bar.
02-17-2017, 04:07 AM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Dirtman- we have been through this a few times in various threads. As much as I wish I could go full custom badass mode I just do not have the money or time to do so. As a result I'm trying to piece together the toughest and most comfortable build I can while mainly using "kits." I understand your reasons, custom is definitely better as no kits really address everything fully and use all optimum methods. However I feel that there are kits and combinations of parts that offer major improvement over stock and other aftermarket systems, although not being as well performing as a ground up custom redesign. Also I think most companies don't get too crazy with changing mounts other than simple to weld/bolt on because it leaves a lot of room for installer error that could be used as a claim on parts that might malfunction or break due to these reasons. If I ever get a tj or lj to play with I will be going fully custom everything. Double triangulated and custom mounts and all that jazz. Get scientific on it. But I can't afford that and don't have the time for it right now with my JKU.
Rock Krawler- I do want to be able to beat on my suspension with peace of mind. I also want to keep weight down however I can. After I do axles I plan on it. This is why I have settled on you guys over everyone else. Your warranty and customer service are excellent, as is your reputation. Prices are also competitive.
Rock Krawler- I do want to be able to beat on my suspension with peace of mind. I also want to keep weight down however I can. After I do axles I plan on it. This is why I have settled on you guys over everyone else. Your warranty and customer service are excellent, as is your reputation. Prices are also competitive.
02-17-2017, 06:56 AM
#18
JK Jedi
With the amount of modifications in the exhaust, frame, and rear axle bridge you are almost at the custom stage. All that a custom set up going to do is address the small things that RK does not address and you will end up with an expensive, hard to install kit that will give you very little in terms of performance over what you have now.
I guess you did not read my post as I told you not to go double triangulated and stay where you are at until you get tons and can do a custom set up when you do the axles. If you put the RK kit on now you will just be buying some parts twice and doing install work twice running up the price costing yo even more in the end.
I don't know what you are currently running now but you may take a good look at your current set up and see if there are any simple adjustments that can be done there to gain some of the performance you want. BTW what do you feel is wrong with your current set up?
I guess you did not read my post as I told you not to go double triangulated and stay where you are at until you get tons and can do a custom set up when you do the axles. If you put the RK kit on now you will just be buying some parts twice and doing install work twice running up the price costing yo even more in the end.
I don't know what you are currently running now but you may take a good look at your current set up and see if there are any simple adjustments that can be done there to gain some of the performance you want. BTW what do you feel is wrong with your current set up?
02-17-2017, 07:28 AM
#19
Former Vendor
Why don't you guys include lower axle control arm mounts and raise both the control arm mount and the shocks mount up higher? This seems like a no brainer with your 3 link since you have so much separation with the bridge over the diff. Almost all custom builds do this and I would think a company with your experience would do this. You gain clearance and better geometry by flattening the lower arms and bringing your instant center down. I mean when looking at your instructions for the pro kit it is more like a custom build with all you have to do with cutting and welding, why not do this simple thing that has some pretty good gains. In reality it would make sense to recommend in your instructions to remove all the rear factory brackets on the axle and relocate or replace them in the proper orientation so things proper line up and you can get rid of the coil wedges and gain clearance on both the shocks and rear track bar.
Wether you like them or not, you have to admit the 3 links work and work very well around the confines of the factory gas tank etc. If a customer is willing to cut off the factory axle mounts and move them up we will work with them to get them what they need as we can make just about anything here!
Your rig is bad ass, but it is definitely a 2%er... Our JK-R is probably even less! LOL
RK
02-17-2017, 07:32 AM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
With the amount of modifications in the exhaust, frame, and rear axle bridge you are almost at the custom stage. All that a custom set up going to do is address the small things that RK does not address and you will end up with an expensive, hard to install kit that will give you very little in terms of performance over what you have now. I guess you did not read my post as I told you not to go double triangulated and stay where you are at until you get tons and can do a custom set up when you do the axles. If you put the RK kit on now you will just be buying some parts twice and doing install work twice running up the price costing yo even more in the end. I don't know what you are currently running now but you may take a good look at your current set up and see if there are any simple adjustments that can be done there to gain some of the performance you want. BTW what do you feel is wrong with your current set up?