Mike H.

what are the chances that on rather hard hits the actual Jeep frame is flexing?
strange stuff happens... and is one of the reasons I did not go with frame mounted this time around.

DJ1

If the frames are flexing, then what's the point of welding them on a 2-door or 4-door? I would think Fiat-Chrysler would have a major lawsuit on their hands lmao


Either way, I'm selling the set I have. If they don't sell, then I'm gonna just bolt them up to my trailer as railings just for the hell of it. Of course, I'll probably have to remove the name plate on it since I can't actively promote a product that can't do it's job correctly.




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jeepmojo

i thought it was good , full refund . Seeing youl have a set your not going to use now !
if they offered me a new jeep or My money back first issue i had or not even having the issue at hand yet . Id have jumped on that .

But interesting thread , Do they still make 2 door bolt on ps ??

I had ace on my 2011 . Sent back cuz of the powdercoat . I took the cash back !
If not satisfied try and get your $ at least . The ace were good enough for my need though , it was just i didnt want to take a chance at the time of getting another poor powdercoat . But actually everything needs a coat of bedliner at some point anyway ! They only went up in price after that. Prob should have kept them for this jeep!
Hardcore playing on rocks ! I think its a given your going to get damages, Hard to blame a company when you know the risks involved. ill say this , my ps bumper is as solid as a tank. So if i were playing on boulders and ledge id go ps

but ace seem to do the job for most . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAf9Oo3I7fU

silverbullet88

I am going with Vks weld on sliders for my 2 door. Seen them used enough

Mike H.

You're kidding right?
You realize that all body on frame designs have frame flex right?

Weld a lever to the outside of the frame, then apply significant force to it in a vertical direction...
If I add lmao, does it add credibility?

DJ1

No, I did not know and am fine putting that out there without getting my ego butt-hurt. Having said that, it perfectly makes sense to me the more I think about it.


Ok then, so if there's frame flex regardless, then what exactly is the point of welding this particular set of sliders to a frame that is going to cause it to flex into the body anyway? Everybody is saying just weld this set on. Skulldaddy said that welding on would make ZERO difference since in his case there was ZERO failure at the mounting flange. Hence my original argument, there is something wrong in the mounting and/or the design of these sliders. So in either case, whether we have frame flex or not, my argument still stands.



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Mike H.

That is what I am getting at as well, and is why I went body mount with tub reinforcing.
I think if the bottom of the frame was tied together at the mounting points of the "frame mount" sliders it would help... possibly alleviate... ??
The boxed frame simply is not designed to be "bent/torsioned... whatever the term for it is," in that axis...
Which is why I asked the question.
Wondering if the designers of the frame mounted sliders chased the design back through the frame?
Just curious.
I don't see any explanation for the "incidents" other than the frame flexing... and it would not need to be much to have the slider move a fair bit out on the end of the lever.

DJ1

Yup. And that's why I think I'm going to just roll the dice with the PSC body-mount rocker knockers. Typically I would stay away from the body mount units. The ACE sliders I had before caused damage which is why I sold them.


On the other hand, the Poison Spyder Brawler Rockers which are also body mounted, have documented cases of that style of rocker also causing body damage. So I would steer clear of these as well. Here's a pic of those particular rockers...




Other body-mounted boat side sliders, like the Nemesis Billy Rockers and the Genright's, I haven't heard any cases of body damage BUT there isn't a large sampling of those out in the field. Genright will price out the majority of consumers and the Nemesis, although fairly priced, there is just so much market saturation now and the install is a little more involved compared to some easier bolt-on units that I only know of ~ 2 JK's running it but they look to be pretty robust.


All the other weld-on's, like the EVO's and VKS' version of the EVO's, I haven't heard any issues but again, those are weld-on's and EVO's design is tried/tested.


I think it's really just the design of the PreRunners hence my 80/20 comment I made to Vick earlier.



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DJ1

...and the main reason why I'm looking at the body mount PSC rocker knockers is because like skulldaddy, I want the option open to go long-arm in the future without having to deal with more headaches. Otherwise, I would most likely go with the PSC rocker knockers in the frame mounted version with the Shrockworks or LOD not too far behind.


I can't do the Nemesis or the Genright since I already have the rockskins mounted. I could probably do it but it would be a major pain in the ass since the rivet nut layout is not exactly the same.


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skulldaddy

A buddy of mine wheels pretty hard on his Nemisis boatsides, but I don't like the idea of tying body mounts to the actual body itself. I like to keep the body mounted on the frame with the ability to flex and articulate as needed. However, that is a good proven system. I already have the PSC rocker armor, so it's not an option.

The EVO weld-ons are a solid choice and have been tested and designed far enough away from the body not to touch it. But again, I don't want a weld on option.

The body mounted PSC rocker knockers showed up today and boy do they ever look nice. I'm good with the choice, I will have tons of clearance and bottom of the body will be reinforced to spread the load of any hit it'll take. I will be losing my easy step but I will make do. Between that and the rocker armor, the body should stay in tact.