Stuck hub/shaft
04-24-2016, 04:24 PM
#11
JK Jedi Master
When I went back together, I arranged them so the concave sides faced each other; like putting your palms together, and cupping them out from each other. This will prevent them from sliding down the shaft upon installation, and from remaining in the axle housing upon next removal.
04-25-2016, 04:54 AM
#13
JK Super Freak
As long as the bolts are out, and the axle nut has been removed, it should be hard, but not difficult to remove.
If you do end up replacing the hubs, make sure you get the right ones. There are two different length ABS wires. You'll want the ones with the longer wires, or at a minimum, you'll want to replace them with longer wheel speed sensors. They're only $20 a piece at Quadratec.
I got mine loose by soaking everything in Pb Blaster. It also helped when I put some heat on the stub shaft end (from the outside). Then sprayed Pb Blaster on it while it was still hot. Keep a rag handy as it will probably catch fire.
Then apply more heat.
If you don't have access to Oxy/Acc torches (I didn't) buy a bottle of MAP gas (yellow bottle) for a standard propane torch. MAP burns hotter than the blue bottle.
Then put the three bolts back in but leave about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread. Put a disposable socket on the end of them, one at a time, and give it some whacks with a BFH.
Persistence. It'll come off.
Let us know how you got it out.
If you do end up replacing the hubs, make sure you get the right ones. There are two different length ABS wires. You'll want the ones with the longer wires, or at a minimum, you'll want to replace them with longer wheel speed sensors. They're only $20 a piece at Quadratec.
I got mine loose by soaking everything in Pb Blaster. It also helped when I put some heat on the stub shaft end (from the outside). Then sprayed Pb Blaster on it while it was still hot. Keep a rag handy as it will probably catch fire.
Then apply more heat.If you don't have access to Oxy/Acc torches (I didn't) buy a bottle of MAP gas (yellow bottle) for a standard propane torch. MAP burns hotter than the blue bottle.
Then put the three bolts back in but leave about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread. Put a disposable socket on the end of them, one at a time, and give it some whacks with a BFH.
Persistence. It'll come off.
Let us know how you got it out.
04-25-2016, 04:55 AM
#14
JK Freak
04-25-2016, 05:29 AM
#15
JK Jedi Master
As long as the bolts are out, and the axle nut has been removed, it should be hard, but not difficult to remove.
If you do end up replacing the hubs, make sure you get the right ones. There are two different length ABS wires. You'll want the ones with the longer wires, or at a minimum, you'll want to replace them with longer wheel speed sensors. They're only $20 a piece at Quadratec.
I got mine loose by soaking everything in Pb Blaster. It also helped when I put some heat on the stub shaft end (from the outside). Then sprayed Pb Blaster on it while it was still hot. Keep a rag handy as it will probably catch fire. Then apply more heat.
If you don't have access to Oxy/Acc torches (I didn't) buy a bottle of MAP gas (yellow bottle) for a standard propane torch. MAP burns hotter than the blue bottle.
Then put the three bolts back in but leave about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread. Put a disposable socket on the end of them, one at a time, and give it some whacks with a BFH.
Persistence. It'll come off.
Let us know how you got it out.
If you do end up replacing the hubs, make sure you get the right ones. There are two different length ABS wires. You'll want the ones with the longer wires, or at a minimum, you'll want to replace them with longer wheel speed sensors. They're only $20 a piece at Quadratec.
I got mine loose by soaking everything in Pb Blaster. It also helped when I put some heat on the stub shaft end (from the outside). Then sprayed Pb Blaster on it while it was still hot. Keep a rag handy as it will probably catch fire.
Then apply more heat.If you don't have access to Oxy/Acc torches (I didn't) buy a bottle of MAP gas (yellow bottle) for a standard propane torch. MAP burns hotter than the blue bottle.
Then put the three bolts back in but leave about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread. Put a disposable socket on the end of them, one at a time, and give it some whacks with a BFH.
Persistence. It'll come off.
Let us know how you got it out.
04-25-2016, 06:00 AM
#16
JK Jedi
Most ditch them and just are careful not to damage the seal when installing the shaft. I think it was kjeeper who indeed up finding his got pushed against the seal and actually damaged the seal as it spun.
04-25-2016, 06:19 AM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Grand Rapids, Mi
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used a socket between the inner c and the outer yoke. Have a friend turn the wheel back and forth alternating which side the socket is on. I did this without the vehicle running and there was plenty of leverage. My unit bearings walked out perfectly which was impressive for 100k miles in Michigan winters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_h39RMjWAw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_h39RMjWAw
04-25-2016, 07:35 AM
#19
JK Freak
You also drive through gritty north-east mud/clay. I think this crap we have around here eats parts. That's why I try to stick only to rock and I stay out of the woods if it's rained within a week. Dry only. Where you go, there is water, grit and mud all over. I hope I don't eat them every month or 2!
04-25-2016, 07:38 AM
#20
JK Jedi
You have an underlying problem or you are racing KOH every week. This on stock axles? Every month or two I'd be looking to go with a d60