Tell me 'bout yer long arms.
#1
JK Newbie
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Tell me 'bout yer long arms.
I know what they do, I know how they work. I want y'all to show me what long arm kits y'all run and tell me why I should get it. What made you pick that kit over another? How was the install? Good customer service? How's it performed? Any complaints or things that you've just loved to death? I've been trying to narrow it down, but they're all just too damn cool.
#2
JK Jedi
The only long arm kit out there I would recommend is the Genright but it is crazy expensive. It is best to go custom instead of the kits out there that retain the factory axle mounting locations and do not remove/relocate frame cross members that conflict with proper geometry. Even the Genright kit could use some more separation on the rear links at the frame.
#4
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The only long arm kit out there I would recommend is the Genright but it is crazy expensive. It is best to go custom instead of the kits out there that retain the factory axle mounting locations and do not remove/relocate frame cross members that conflict with proper geometry. Even the Genright kit could use some more separation on the rear links at the frame.
All of my suspension components except coils and my rear track bar are Synergy, and I absolutely love them. I like that I don't have to take stuff off to adjust it. I've spent a lot of time looking at Clayton too, and I like the whole new crossmember, but I'm not a fan of radius arms. They make a 3-Link option for the front, but I've had a hard time seeing an advantage to running 3-link over 4-link. That's something I don't know much about. Is it just simply one less link, or does it have some kind of advantage? I also highly value my ability to do 70 down the highway, since I'm from Texas, so I'm kind of scared to shell out for 3-link and not know exactly what it'll do to my handling characteristics.
#5
JK Jedi
a front 3 link is really a non issue, just make sure the mounts are study. You won't notice the difference in handling between a 4 link and 3 link.
In the rear I would rather have a 4 link just do to the fact the rear sees more stress then the front and it is hard to get good geometry with a 3 link without sacrificing up travel in the suspension due to the fact you need to run the upper link real high on the axle side.
To get good geometry in a long arm requires some cutting and relocating stuff such as frame cross members. Most companies do it the opposite way and move the control arm brackets down. While this works alright it tends to create clearance issues off road because things are hanging down below the frame and axle.
In the rear I would rather have a 4 link just do to the fact the rear sees more stress then the front and it is hard to get good geometry with a 3 link without sacrificing up travel in the suspension due to the fact you need to run the upper link real high on the axle side.
To get good geometry in a long arm requires some cutting and relocating stuff such as frame cross members. Most companies do it the opposite way and move the control arm brackets down. While this works alright it tends to create clearance issues off road because things are hanging down below the frame and axle.
#6
JK Super Freak
I know what they do, I know how they work. I want y'all to show me what long arm kits y'all run and tell me why I should get it. What made you pick that kit over another? How was the install? Good customer service? How's it performed? Any complaints or things that you've just loved to death? I've been trying to narrow it down, but they're all just too damn cool.
#7
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I plan on running 3-4 inches. Sitting at 3.5" on 35"s right now. Just enough to have good clearance with flat fenders and 37" tires. I'm not too terribly concerned about the arms hitting the ground or anything, because I'm more about overland than rock crawling. I really don's smash on anything too often. I'm trying to find the best balance between the two, so I figured about 4" of lift with 37"s, along with a new front axle and some tube fenders would put me right on the money.
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#8
I am a big fan of the Teraflex long arms for moderate suspension flexing. Teraflex uses 3 sets of longer arms, and then the rear uppers are a hair longer than factory length. This means that hardcore trail-riders are going to be left asking for more from the arm length, but it works fine for overlanders and desert runners.
Factory style Clevite bushings require little to no maintenance, and the Currie Johnny Joints provide the flex and the adjustment. I also like how factory the frame brackets look when they are professionally welded on.
If you are going to be squeezing every single ounce of travel from the suspension, go for Genright, or have someone custom build a set doing triangulation and all that fun stuff.
If you are overlanding and need some additional comfort, flex, and alignment, then Teraflex is where its at.
Factory style Clevite bushings require little to no maintenance, and the Currie Johnny Joints provide the flex and the adjustment. I also like how factory the frame brackets look when they are professionally welded on.
If you are going to be squeezing every single ounce of travel from the suspension, go for Genright, or have someone custom build a set doing triangulation and all that fun stuff.
If you are overlanding and need some additional comfort, flex, and alignment, then Teraflex is where its at.
#9
JK Jedi
You are correct, if you don't need the flex then a Teraflex long arm will get you by. Or buy any other long arm kit on the market and settle for the compromises they make.